Need a source for '34 pitman arm for Heims

Tom in TN

Senior Member
Hey Y’all… I’m looking to change my drag link to one with Heims on both ends, to eliminate any play in that area.

Does anyone know of a source for a pitman arm that fits the ’34’s splined shaft, but has a hole on the other end, not a ball?

I’ve found several, but they fit a Vega shaft, or a GM shaft or something else…can’t seem to locate one that fits a stock 34 gearbox pinion shaft.

TIA
 
Hey Y’all… I’m looking to change my drag link to one with Heims on both ends, to eliminate any play in that area.

Does anyone know of a source for a pitman arm that fits the ’34’s splined shaft, but has a hole on the other end, not a ball?

I’ve found several, but they fit a Vega shaft, or a GM shaft or something else…can’t seem to locate one that fits a stock 34 gearbox pinion shaft.

TIA


The '34 splined shaft is the same, 1932 thru '48. From 1935-'48, any of the Pitman arms should bolt-on. The "48-" arm for '35-36 is the shortest, then there's a "78-" which fits '37-'40. The "11A-" fits '41 ONLY, and the "21A-" fits '42-'48 Ford cars, but all the same spline count and with a 7º tapered hole for drag link. DD
 
If your concerned with play I'd make a new drag link using the later Ford tie rod ends and forget the Heims. Just get a 32 pitman and you should be good to go. Only problem may be to clock the pitman correctly you may have to file down the larger locator splines?
 
Krylon32, not dismissing what you say, but a Heim having more play than a tapered end? Where would that play come from? I have a brand new Heim on one end and anticipate another brand new one on the other end. Can you elaborate?
I’m trying to tighten my steering system up so as to get rid of the ‘death wobble’ when I cross a RR track and those old cup & spring drag links allow a LOT of play.
I am considering machining a ’brass slug’ to replace the spring, just to see if it helps…
 
Regular tie rod ends have worked pretty good for a long time. I would weld on a salvaged boss and get rid of the ball but keep the arm. You get into a lot of stuff with splines, orientation, and length, and shape when changing arms. Any spindle, later pitman arm, should serve as a donner.
I had some shimmy and found the kingpins slightly loose. They need to be greased like every 1000 miles. It is not like a new car with no maintaince
 
The later style Ford tie rod ends will outlast a heim any time. Heim ends are more of a race car part where they are subject to frequent replacement. I'm running early style tie rod ends (32-34) on my 32 pickup and I have no free play. My ends were new with new bronze kits. On my cars whether I have death wobble or not I always install a hydraulic steering stabilizer. Some say they're a crutch but they really smooth out straight axle steering. I go back to my post above and would use a 32 pitman as they have a tapered end, no welding required, you may have to file down the larger locator splines for proper orientation but that's no big deal. Just my opinion?
 
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Krylon32, not dismissing what you say, but a Heim having more play than a tapered end? Where would that play come from? I have a brand new Heim on one end and anticipate another brand new one on the other end. Can you elaborate?
I’m trying to tighten my steering system up so as to get rid of the ‘death wobble’ when I cross a RR track and those old cup & spring drag links allow a LOT of play.
I am considering machining a ’brass slug’ to replace the spring, just to see if it helps…


"Andy" & "Krylon32" give some pretty savvy advice up above. If you decide to use a '32 Pitman arm, there is some quite valuable "CLOCKING" info in this link below! DD

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=215892&highlight=pickup+pitman+arm+clocking
 
Thanks guys - trust me, I am saving these posts.
Krylon32, what are the odds you have a source/part number for that hydraulic steering stabilizer?
 
The later style Ford tie rod ends will outlast a heim any time. Heim ends are more of a race car part where they are subject to frequent replacement. I'm running early style tie rod ends (32-34) on my 32 pickup and I have no free play. My ends were new with new bronze kits. On my cars whether I have death wobble or not I always install a hydraulic steering stabilizer. Some say they're a crutch but they really smooth out straight axle steering. I go back to my post above and would use a 32 pitman as they have a tapered end, no welding required, you may have to file down the larger locator splines for proper orientation but that's no big deal. Just my opinion?

Not to high jack, but can you elaborate how these bronze kits work for the early cup & ball tie rod ends?
 
Tim: I got the bronze rebuild kits from Mac's. They are just like the regular kits except the cups have a bronze facing. Tom: I get my steering stabilizers from Pete & Jakes.
 
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