Need a little help on paint prep/filler?

Jack 34pu

Jack 34pu

Senior Member
Just got some sheet metal back from the sand blaster. He put PPG DP90 primer on the pieces. More pits and holes than I imagined so what can I use to spread over the pitted areas to fill them in that will work with the DP90? I'm not going to do the paint work but trying to get some prep work done to save a little.
I went around to several shops today and their prices were very high! One estimate was $400-500 on a single panel that I can get a pair of repros for $300. Was hoping to use the original stuff but can buy repro's and sell the originals to someone with welding and paint skills. I guess I'm a driver rather than a points guy!
 
Scuff the dp up with some sandpaper (I use 80 grit) and go right over it any plastic filler. The polyester spot filler would work well on rust pits.
I've never seen any repro panels that didn't require bodywork anyway (some a LOT of bodywork) and most don't fit as well as originals, unless your stuff is really junk I'd go ahead a use it. I bought repop fenders for the Vicky I'm building, didn't have an original and couldn't find one. Bet I have 20 hours in each "new" fender making it fit and straight.
 
My preference is for Evercoat Slicksand. You can get it at any auto paint supply store. It's a 2 part polyester sandable sealer. As such, a respirator is a MUST when you spray!

Lay on about 3 or 4 coats of the sealer after thinning it with about 1/3 laquer thinner. The hardener will come with the sealer. Hardens up in about 1 hour depending on how much hardener you use and temperature.

I lightly knock off the surface scum by wet sanding with 200 grit and finish with wet 500. This stuff sort of puffs up as it hardens and fill any pits.

Prime it, wet sand to whatever finish your looking for (1000 grit is usually enough) and your ready to paint. Before/after pics attached
 

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Tom Morookian said:
My preference is for Evercoat Slicksand. You can get it at any auto paint supply store. It's a 2 part polyester sandable sealer. As such, a respirator is a MUST when you spray!

Evercoat Slicksand really works nice!! It will fill deep pits very well.
Click to expand...
 
When you go to Lowe's or Home Depot, beg for some paint stir sticks, big and little. I use those to wrap my wet/dry around for sanding. The big sticks work on big panels, the small sticks conform well to the curves of fenders.
 
I use the dplf series primers ( only difference is color ); If it has been less than 1 week since the DP was applied you can go over it with out scuffing. I personnally have never gone longer than 5 days. I use K-36 (PPG) for a build primer, 2 medium wet coats, then sand to see if I need more. I sand K36 with 320 wet between primer coats. I apply "bondo" on the dp and under the K36. This is maybe slower than the slicksand, but I'm used to it. I finish sand 400 wet before a urethane topcoat and 600wet before lacquer.
 
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