Need a little help installing flyweel/******

Fred K-OR

Well-known member
Have a question about what bolts sets, gaskets, etc. are needed to install the flywheel cover with the ****** attached onto the engine. Will be doing it with a friend and I left my Les Andrews manual in my old shop and we need to make sure we have everything to get it done. I know we need the tool to make sure the clutch disk is located correctly but have forgotten what else we need besides a lot of mussel.

It has been awhile since I did this so would appreciate help to make sure we have all the stuff needed to get the job done. Thanks for the help.
 
Hi Fred this help! 5/8" finger height. careful not to break bolts 20lbs not much.I know
 

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More for Fred!!
 

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Removing and installing flywheels and transmissions need not be a major trauma.

I do it from inside the car with both front seats removed along with the front floorboard, toe board and brake cross shaft.

I remove two bolts from the bell housing at each top corner and replace them with two headless bolts about four inches long. Then remove the rest of the bolts, slide the ****** back on the headless bolts until the main shaft clears the pilot bearing, then lift it down. (I remove the shifter tower to make it easier to handle.)

I then remove two of the flywheel bolts and replace them with headless bolts about six inches long. The other two bolts are removed, the flywheel slid back and lifted down to the floor.

Reassembly is the exact opposite. It helps to grind tapers on the headless bolts to make it easier to locate the heavier components.

Using these simple tools, I removed and installed both flywheel and ****** working alone. I am 73 years old, have significant osteo-arthritis and other health issues. I managed it alone, it is not a tough job, I lift heavier weights making my home made wine.
 
For Fred!Yes, but been very sick this last week my nose was running, See you in Oregon CoosBay June 2017.! Happy Model "A" New Year!!!
 
If you don't happen to have a clutch disc alignment shaft tool, then you can also align the disc by feeling around the outer edge to get the disc centered on the pressure plate as the pressure plate bolts get tightened. I've done this a few times and the ****** slipped right into place.
 
Removing and installing flywheels and transmissions need not be a major trauma.

I do it from inside the car with both front seats removed along with the front floorboard, toe board and brake cross shaft.

I remove two bolts from the bell housing at each top corner and replace them with two headless bolts about four inches long. Then remove the rest of the bolts, slide the ****** back on the headless bolts until the main shaft clears the pilot bearing, then lift it down. (I remove the shifter tower to make it easier to handle.)

I then remove two of the flywheel bolts and replace them with headless bolts about six inches long. The other two bolts are removed, the flywheel slid back and lifted down to the floor.

Reassembly is the exact opposite. It helps to grind tapers on the headless bolts to make it easier to locate the heavier components.

Using these simple tools, I removed and installed both flywheel and ****** working alone. I am 73 years old, have significant osteo-arthritis and other health issues. I managed it alone, it is not a tough job, I lift heavier weights making my home made wine.

Thanks Ian. Your method sounds like a great way to do it. We are just putting the thing back together so we will have to get a couple of long bolts to use to hang the ******, flywheel housing back on the engine..

Thanks for the idea.
 
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If you don't happen to have a clutch disc alignment shaft tool, then you can also align the disc by feeling around the outer edge to get the disc centered on the pressure plate as the pressure plate bolts get tightened. I've done this a few times and the ****** slipped right into place.

Thanks Tom. I do have a "tool" (front shaft from ******) for this purpose, if I can find it!
 
Like Ian, I'm in my low 70s and I never found it too hard. Here and there maybe, but nothing too difficult. You don't say whether or not you're replacing the engine into the car or the transmission. In each case it's a little different. Of you've removed the engine, make sure you put the gasket back between the FW Housing and the engine and you should indicate the FW housing ( .006 IIRC). If you have or have access to a lathe, make an alignment tool. If not, use an old input shaft. If the engine is not in place, you may need frame spreader. If you're putting the trans back in, you have to make sure the transmisson is back about 3-5 inches.
Terry
 
Terry, I think we will attach the ****** and FW cover to the engine first and then install both the engine and ****** as one unit I have done this in the past and it has worked well. Yes we may need a frame spreader but with motor mount being used, I hope things will go in without the spreader. Thanks for the comments.
 
I cut the heads off a couple of 3/8"-16 x 5" bolts for my guides. If you make some don't forget to cut slots in the ends so you can use a screwdriver to get them out.
PS I have no control over the photo rotation, they are correct on my phone.
 

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I cut the heads off a couple of 3/8"-16 x 5" bolts for my guides. If you make some don't forget to cut slots in the ends so you can use a screwdriver to get them out.
PS I have no control over the photo rotation, they are correct on my phone.

Good ideas. Also thanks for the bolt sizes. This will help to get them setup for when we do the job.
 
I did the same as above, cut the heads off some long bolts and just slid the trans to the engine. I used an old input shaft as an alignment and had no issues. Oh and make sure your trans input nose slips into the pilot bearing snugly. I put a couple of upsets on mine for good measure.
 
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