NAPA CS30 Points

I read somewhere on the internet but I don't recall the site, that 65 Mustang points and condenser are an option for the "A", would this be correct?

Regards
Bill
 
BillCNC said:
I read somewhere on the internet but I don't recall the site, that 65 Mustang points and condenser are an option for the "A", would this be correct?

Regards
Bill
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these would be considered modern points.
to use modern points the upper distributor plate is changed to accommodate them
ford used different point sets in the 50s and 60s cars some mount left and some right. you need to research that further.

as discussed above. i have very little luck finding these style points that use a proper follower. most are plastic and will melt

i don't use modern 1960s points.

the answer to your question is maybe.. and if you have the correct upper plat to match.
 
I have a set of original style points that the rubbing block wore down due to the rough surface of the new B style cam that I had installed. A new set of points didn't line up properly, so I made a new rubbing block for the old points.
 

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katy said:
I have a set of original style points that the rubbing block wore down due to the rough surface of the new B style cam that I had installed. A new set of points didn't line up properly, so I made a new rubbing block for the old points.
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Did you polish the cam before put the rebuilt points back in? If so, did the polishing significantly reduce or all but eliminate wear?
 
Yes, I polished the cam. Spun it in the lathe and used crocus cloth w/oil 'till it was super smooth, didn't take long.
It pretty well eliminated wear of the rubbing block w/a little grease on it.
 
its funny.
Snyder's parts supply says that they sell a modified points block to adjust for the fact that the repro blocks are made wrong. they say the points are correct and same as original. but why when you put a new set of points into a plate that has an old original points anchor block they don't line up?
i think someone is feeding us a load of HS

ou
 
katy said:
Yes, I polished the cam. Spun it in the lathe and used crocus cloth w/oil 'till it was super smooth, didn't take long.
It pretty well eliminated wear of the rubbing block w/a little grease on it.
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That's good to know, thanks.
 
katy- So are you saying that the worn block put the points out of alignment as shown in your first picture above?
 
on a good unscared points cam all you need is to polish it. some will use something like jeweler's rouge, not removing metal or changing the profile.
 
BillCNC said:
I wonder how much polishing can be done before it starts altering the cams profile? Regards Bill
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Methinks it would take a lot to make any appreciable difference, especially on a 4 cylinder engine.
If one measured the dwell before and after the polishing, they'd find out.
 
FYI - O'Reillys carries the high(er) quality Blue Streak brand points and condenser for the modern upper plate. The rubbing block on the points is a dark brown material that looks similar to what came on quality points in years past. They are copper (plated?) and have a felt pad to keep the cam lubricated with a drop or two of oil. The Blue Streak condenser is readily identified by the blue wire.

Blue Streak part numbers are:
Points: FD8183V
Condenser: FD77

You can plug the numbers into O'Reillys web site and they will come up. My local store had them in stock. I put them in my '31 CCPU. I'm going to rebuild another distributor with stock points and condenser. But I'll run these until I'm ready to change it out.

Here are the Blue Streak points next to the cheaper points with plastic rubbing block.



Steve
 

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ndnchf: That is good info, thanks. I run the modern cam and condensor and I am happy with them but the Blue Streak parts look like better quality.
 
Does anyone have a picture of a set of original points? I am not talking about what is currently out there. I am talking about actual 1930's points.

The Napa/Echlin points that I purchased within the last year are of the proper length. That length being 1.210 inch from center of point head to point pivot. The problem is the point block wore down to nothing within 600 miles.

Anyone else out there who used Napa/Echlin points in the last couple of years run into the same problem?

As a side note, I find it incredible that vendors are making points that do not fit. One thing about the Napa/Echlin points, they do fit. However, the wear block was gone in 600 miles.
Maybe I should just bite the bullet and replace my points every 500 miles at every oil change?
 
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