NAPA and Stant stats for 59A

Chuck Sea/Tac said:
Prof Henry, how is hy-per lube "better" than red line? They both claim 20* drop in temp.
I use red line in my A , but have never tried by-per. Chuck
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Readline Water Wetter does not have any anti-corrosive agents nor lubricants as far as I've researched. It is just a surfactant. So, it should not be run without adding those with some other product such as anti-freeze. Hy-per Lube Super Coolant has those so can be run with straight water. As you can see in the dynamo tests, anti-freeze significantly reduces the heat transfer so, at least right now in the summer, I'm running without it. I'll put it in for the winter.

Redline does make another product called Supercool that does have those other additives but you have to put in 1/2 gallon for $20.00. Here: http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=117&pcid=10
 
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chuck stevens said:
Henry, save your money by not buying water wetter-super coolant, and invest in some good modern thermostats.
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If I didn't put Super Coolant in I'd have to put antifreeze in which is a lot more expensive and reduces heat transfer.

I'm putting the Stant high flow stats in tomorrow when the second one comes in at O'Reilly's. Then I'll complete my experiment doing the 4.1 miles of 8% grade to see how it compares to the same run Saturday with no stats and will report.
 
donald1950 said:
good work henry.......
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jdl said:
Good job Henry, will wait for results,
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Andy said:
Subscribed. Great work Henry!
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Although my research and testing will probably benefit many others that have challenges with overheating flatheads, it is mainly in preparation for my climb to the top of Mt. Evans, (14,256 ft) the highest paved road in North America, in 10 days. Overheating is so darned inconvenient I'm trying to do everything I can to prevent it on that climb. On my Pike's Peak climb two years ago I was plagued with vapor lock which I didn't even understand at the time but have since come to understand and cure with a back up electric fuel pump. Now that I've got that solved my only other challenge is likely to be overheating although as I just did some analysis of that climb and I did not detect any 8% grades such as the one I'm testing stats on now so if I lick Squaw Peak Road (where I'm testing) I should have no problems with Mt. Evans.
 
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Old Henry said:
Although my research and testing will probably benefit many others that have challenges with overheating flatheads, it is mainly in preparation for my climb to the top of Mt. Evans, (14,256 ft) the highest paved road in North America, in 10 days. Overheating is so darned inconvenient I'm trying to do everything I can to prevent it on that climb.
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Quite the challange. Eagerly awaiting your test.

Please report on the braking upon the descent, also.

14,000 feet and 8%; :eek: that would smoke most disc brake setups!

"What goes up MUST come down." :D
 
hotrodA said:
Quite the challange. Eagerly awaiting your test.

Please report on the braking upon the descent, also.

14,000 feet and 8%; :eek: that would smoke most disc brake setups!

"What goes up MUST come down." :D
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I very rarely ever use brakes on a descent. I control downhill speed almost exclusively with low gears. May tap the brakes on a hairpin turn but otherwise no brakes.
 
Got the second Stant 170° stat at O'Reilly today and installed both as follows:

First tested them to make sure they worked.

Here they are first opening at 160°
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And fully open at 180°
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Then drilled 3/32" hole in the flange to allow air to escape when filling. (Would have drilled 1/16" hole but broke the bit :() Tried to get the jiggle plugs from my other stats to work in these holes but they wouldn't.
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Sat the stats on the neck with their gaskets on them to see how they fit. The gaskets extended slightly past the neck so I thought they might be well to leave on to keep the stat from "floating" up as they like to do.
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But, still didn't want to rely on the gaskets alone so installed my usual wires to keep the stats down.

Got a piece of 12 ga. stranded wire 3½" long and stripped the two ends to make it easier to pull strands out.
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Then threaded the wires through the stat and down the side of the neck to be held down by the hose.
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Then put the hoses on, clamped them down, and filled with water to test for leaks. Could not get the water to stop leaking under the hoses. Took them off and discovered that when I pushed the hose down over the gaskets on the stats it rolled the gaskets off the stats and down around the hose preventing them from sealing. So, removed the gaskets and reinstalled the stats without them.
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The stats are just slightly smaller in diameter than the necks so the hose alone would not keep them down without the wires or a second clamp around the hose above them.

Gotta use the small strands of stranded wire or the hose won't seal around them. The clamp should be installed so that the top of it is even with the top of the neck, not lower as the neck starts to flare lower and it's harder to get it to seal.
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Filled the radiator with soft water and two bottles of Hy-per Lube Super Coolant up to where it ran out of the overflow just to see how much pushed out when it heated up so I could report what the nominal level of water in a stock radiator without a recovery tank is.
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Checked for leaks again, found none, and was ready for the second climb up Squaw Peak Road to measure temperatures with the thermostats in. (That run is done and report of such is being prepared for posting.)

Addendum: After the run I measured the level of water in the radiator. It was 1½" below the top of the filler neck which is the highest level that the stock radiator without a recovery system will hold.
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Professor,
I think the goosenecks on your heads are pretty corroded so you could grind them smoother or use Indian head shellac when installing the hoses. That might help on the leaks. You also could sand the bottom flange on your radiator flange so the cap has a better chance to seal and hold pressure in the radiator. JMO
John
 
oldford2 said:
Professor,
I think the goosenecks on your heads are pretty corroded so you could grind them smoother or use Indian head shellac when installing the hoses. That might help on the leaks. You also could sand the bottom flange on your radiator flange so the cap has a better chance to seal and hold pressure in the radiator. JMO
John
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Good ideas.

Thanks.
 
Henry, with due respect, The very first thing you should do for your self is properly clean out your cooling system.
 
Use a bit of Permatex No.3 wipe it on the inside of the hose and slide it on , Ive never had a prob doing that. Looking forward to your climb !
 
Bluebell said:
Henry, with due respect, The very first thing you should do for your self is properly clean out your cooling system.
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My engine was rebuilt 3,000 miles ago and spent a day or two in the "boiler" to clean it out at that time. Had radiator cleaned and tested at the same time. How do you get it any cleaner than that? Why do you say it needs cleaned? Don't know what else to do.
 
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