NAPA and Stant stats for 59A

Why is the 160 not better than the 180 Flatjack? I thought 180 was the norm I just checked mine and I used some from a Holden Commodore they measured 27mm across the sharp edge and seemed quite deep so would open a far way.. wouldn't be far off those Stants. I used 180 as that's all I could get. , would have like 160 - 170. Gets as hot as hell over here.
 
Thermostats start to open 15 degrees before the stated number.
160* starts to open at 145* and is full open at 160
180* starts to open at 165* full open at 180

They should be tested before installing. slip a .003 feeler gauge under the
top opening lip of the cold thermo. and hold it from the feeler gauge end
while in hot water, when it starts to open it will fall of the feeler gauge
you can tell when it starts to open & when fully open.
use your wife's candy thermometer for this.
 
flat Jack 9 if you are going to make statments as you did then explan your reasoning I have a 39 Merc with the fan on the crank. With the original Ford stats everything OK while driving except if one gets ******* in stop, go trafic,then the temp gradually builds up .using a 160 stat gives one that extra 20 degrees as a safety compared to the 180 which leaves little wiggle room. driving with the weather we have now, the temp needle hardly leaves the pin. [not good for the engine].I use a piece of cardboard with no stats but that is a pain .A 160 stat is OK for the engine operating preformace and would gives me a greater safety range. but I have not been able to find one with a large flow opening. the one listed above seems as it would fit the need. The 180 was only used in cold country [winter]to make the heater give more heat . so whats your theory. johnny.
 
johnny said:
Using a 160 stat gives one that extra 20 degrees as a safety compared to the 180 which leaves little wiggle room.
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That's my thinking too. The way I drive up and down all the time I'd rather start a long climb with my engine at 160° than 180° to give me more time before really heating up.
 
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johnny said:
flat Jack 9 if you are going to make statments as you did then explan your reasoning I have a 39 Merc with the fan on the crank. With the original Ford stats everything OK while driving except if one gets ******* in stop, go trafic,then the temp gradually builds up .using a 160 stat gives one that extra 20 degrees as a safety compared to the 180 which leaves little wiggle room. driving with the weather we have now, the temp needle hardly leaves the pin. [not good for the engine].I use a piece of cardboard with no stats but that is a pain .A 160 stat is OK for the engine operating preformace and would gives me a greater safety range. but I have not been able to find one with a large flow opening. the one listed above seems as it would fit the need. The 180 was only used in cold country [winter]to make the heater give more heat . so whats your theory. johnny.
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Let's think about this for a minute. Is it easier for your cooling system to maintain 160* or 180*? Obviously the answer is 180*. 190* would be even easier. If your engine is cooling at 160*, but pretty well maxed out, if you increase the load on the engine, the temperature is going to rise to a level where it can be maintained. Your "factor of safety" is merely a myth. The temperature is going up, like it or not, and it won't take that long. Let's say it settles out at 180*. Why not run 180* all the time? Your engine will run more efficiently at that temp. By the way if you can't maintain 180* under most conditions. you've got a problem with either the engine or the cooling system or both.
 
But, if you're going to rise 40° on a climb before you get to the top and start down the other side I'd rather start that climb at 160° to rise to 200° than start it at 180° and rise to 220°. I highly doubt that any flathead will not rise above 180° on a long steep climb at WOT in 90°+ ambient temperature, especially in 2nd gear. That's what I'm dealing with all the time and why I like to keep it low at 160° as Ford suggested as much as possible.

Each to his own preference.:)
 
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Here is an excellent article (transcript of a phone conversation really) with an actual thermostat engineer. There are lots of misconceptions out there about opening temperatue etc. (no, they don't open 15 deg. below rated temperature).... The bottom line for using a substitute thermostat is that you can only try them and see what works best for you.
 

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Old Henry said:
But, if you're going to rise 40° on a climb before you get to the top and start down the other side I'd rather start that climb at 160° to rise to 200° than start it at 180° and rise to 220°. I highly doubt that any flathead will not rise above 180° on a long steep climb at WOT in 90°+ ambient temperature, especially in 2nd gear. That's what I'm dealing with all the time and why I like to keep it low at 160° as Ford suggested as much as possible.

Each to his own preference.:)
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Perhaps the temp would level off at 200. I doubt in todays world if Ford would be recommending 160* operating temps, even in a flathead.
 
flatjack9 said:
Perhaps the temp would level off at 200.
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Climbing 4 miles in second gear on a 8% grade mine has never leveled off at 200°. New clean engine, clean radiator, high volume pumps, radiator shroud, no thermostats.

I'm half way through a controlled scientific experiment that I will finish on Wednesday showing the difference between stats and no stats on such a climb, both going up and coming down. Should be interesting. We'll see.
 
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Old Henry said:
Climbing 15 minutes in second gear on a 6% grade mine has never leveled off at 200°. New clean engine, clean radiator, high volume pumps, radiator shroud, no thermostats.

I'm half way through a controlled scientific experiment that I will finish on Wednesday showing the difference between stats and no stats on such a climb, both going up and coming down. Should be interesting. We'll see.
Click to expand...

Good job Henry, will wait for results, ..have you tried Redline Water Wetter?
 
jdl said:
Good job Henry, will wait for results, ..have you tried Redline Water Wetter?
Click to expand...

Something even better - Hy-per Lube Super Coolant and plain soft water.

super-coolant.jpg


Here are the dynamo test results posted on their website and container:

coolant-temp-chart.jpg


Learn more here: http://www.hyperlube.com/Super-Coolant-c8.html
 
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Old Henry said:
But, if you're going to rise 40° on a climb before you get to the top and start down the other side I'd rather start that climb at 160° to rise to 200° than start it at 180° and rise to 220°.

Henry, I think your theory is flawed. You are not thinking about this correctly.
The maximum temp you get up to is dictated by the ability to dissipate the heat via the various media (water, oil etc. As the differential becomes greater between the operating temp, and the ambient temp, so the rate of transfer becomes greater.
In other words; If you start off as you say at 160 degrees and you top out at 200 degrees. In the next scenario you start at 180 degrees, it is most likely that you will still top out at 200 degrees.
Lets face it after 500 yards your so called 20 degree advantage will have already disappeared.
Once again, your thermostats are regulators in as much as they keep your operating temperature range narrow, in the range in which every thing has the correct clearances required for long engine life, and performance.

It will be interesting to see the results of what you are testing.
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I tested my thermostats last night they are 180. By my testing they opened up at 175 and fully open at 190 so roughly "regulating " around the 180 mark but not fully open.
 
Prof Henry, how is hy-per lube "better" than red line? They both claim 20* drop in temp.
I use red line in my A , but have never tried by-per. Chuck
 
runs cooler with the stats out..!

Which is why you'd be better off running them! It is my understanding that you want to run an engine [any engine] as hot as possible without it boiling.
 
Henry,
I have a 47 that has 190 stats, temp gauges in both heads, and recored rad with new water pumps, running 50-50 antifreeze. It runs at 190 going down the road with very little fluctuation on the hills.
The hotter you run any engine the more efficient it is . As the coolant is 190 in the block
the radiator is down to 150-160. As you go into a hill you pull the cool water from the radiator, keeping the engine at a constant 190-195.
With two mechanical temp gauges I keep close track of the operating temperature, it runs a very stable temp. Large temperature variations will promote cracking.
Henry, save your money by not buying water wetter-super coolant, and invest in some good modern thermostats you'll be happier and so will your new flathead, Chuck S.
 
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