My next flathead build?

[Ziggster]

The sludge is super thick in the valley. I can scoop it out with my fingers. Noticed the block isn’t relieved like my C59A block. Interesting also is the intake is different with the filler neck, and mine also had the crab style distributor. Not sure what you call this style distributor. Can’t see any cracks, and cylinder walls look good.
Next is to weld on a nut or two on the PS studs to see if that makes a difference in getting the studs out and the head off.

 

[38 coupe]

 

[38 coupe]

That looks crusty and gunky, but so far nothing looks catastrophic. I would check the oil pan rail for freeze cracks before getting too excited, but I'm cautiously optimistic for you.

The head looks surprisingly good, can you tell if the internal water passages look solid?

 

[Ziggster]

Will get back at it later this morning. Need to get the PS head off next. Then get the trans pulled, and then get it on an engine stand, but I need to get at least one of the exh manifolds off to mount it to the stand.
Honestly, it doesn’t look too bad. A bit of water came out from the block heater coolant hoses, but that is my fear - cracked block along the pan rails.

 

[Ziggster]

Finally got the engine free from the stand and in my garage. Pulled the starter and PS exh manifold shine it was still on the stand in my trailer. Got one stubborn bolt left on the DS exh manifold (front bottom).
Welded a nut to the stubborn head stud and no luck. Tried two more times, and nut/weld just breaks off, and now threads are getting beat up. The crud between the head and the stud is disappearing a bit I guess burning off from the heat developed during welding which is good, but not sure how to proceed. It feels like the stud is really stuck in the block as it not even budging.
Going to remove the trans next and see if I can get it in my engine stand. Noticed it has the same rare truck oval clean out as my other flathead which is a nice bonus.
Hers is all the dirt that came with the stand. Lol! Oh yeah, the oil actually looks clean on the dipstick!

 

[Bored&Stroked]

If you don't need the head, then you might use a hole-saw and just saw down around the stud. It is a brutal way, but sometimes yah gots to do what yah gots to do!

BTW, I've seen oil like that . . . thinking how nice and clean it was. Then I found out that the ole' non-detergent oil had separated in the pan and there was a nice thick layer of sludge to greet me on the bottom!

My bet, that is what you'll find . . .

 

[Ziggster]

I want to keep the head as if it is like the other, will be in excellent condition. I agree, there will be lots of sludge in the pan just like the valley, but it was nice to “clean” oil on the dipstick. It seems to be shaping up that this engine is actually in very good shape. Fingers crossed.

 

[kurt v]

I would heat stud red hot let cool pb blaster, next day same thing after couple days block of wood and heavy hammer , wack the head front to back and up and down, not to kill it just shock it. It will come lose just takes time.

 

[Ol' Ron]

my next Flathead build (already started) will consist of a small displacement built will all flathead parts except the carb distributor ar generator. The engine will have adaquit power Long longevity and low Cost under 3K$ if you have a good block. any block from late 38 thru 53 will do. Stay tuned/
Gramps

 

[Ziggster]

Will do. Thanks.

Got it on my engine stand and of course made a royal mess when I pulled the pan. I removed the large plug first, but nothing came out, so figured there wasn’t much in there. Lol!

Snapped a bolt that was in the inlet of the PS water pump, but was using the impact. Other one came out easily by hand. Not sure why I decided to use the impact. Impeller on DS was disintegrated! Looks like some kind of white metal. Never seen that before. Impeller on PS pump was intact but with some holes from corrosion.

Good news is there are no cracks along the pan rails! I think this block is good, but only a thorough cleaning and pressure test will confirm that. I want to get the crank, rods, and pistons out, and that will be it for a while.

All three main caps are wired together. Interesting.

 

[Ol' Ron]

I have a question about the blocks used in the above post. I am fimilar with the 37 blocks and the 39 blocks but not sure about the 38 blocks at onepoin they had the small main 2.398?? then switched the the standard 2.498 crank Mamery is alittle vague!!

 

[Ziggster]

I think it’s a 59A block Ron. Pic of the casting number.

 

[Ziggster]

Forgot to post pics of the water pump impeller(s).

 

[Ol' Ron]

I Waz just thinking of the 38 block??
G

 

[Ziggster]

From VanPelt. Says, from 32-26, crank journals were 1.999”, and in 37 they increased to 2.399”. Their site doesn’t mention crank size journals for anything post 37 that I can find.

 

[Ziggster]

Noticed this hose and “cup” assy on the trans. What’s this for? I think my other flathead had the same same trans, but not this setup IIRC. Will need to check though.

 

[Ziggster]

Also, looking at the pistons, and the carbon ring at the top of the bore, they appear to much lower below the deck at full compression than my other flathead. My other flathead was bored 0.060” (bored 0.040” previously at some point), and I just got Egge 0.060” pistons, but they come up much higher in the bore. Curious to know if these new Egge pistons have dramatically increased the CR over stk in my other engine?

 

[38 coupe]

That is a interesting combination of parts. In the USA the core plugs in the oil pan rail were phased out in late 1940 with the switch to the "raised deck" blocks for 41 model year. The combination of round center water hole with upside down keystone bottom center water hole indicates a factory 239 pre-war or war time engine. Does the block pass the "pencil test"?


I would love to find an complete oil pan like that, they don't seem to have wandered south to Texas much at all.

 

[marko39]

Noticed this hose and “cup” assy on the trans. What’s this for? I think my other flathead had the same same trans, but not this setup IIRC. Will need to check though.

that looks like a remote oiler for the clutch release bearing.

 

[Ziggster]

Almost there. She’s stuck on another stud. Patience is the key I guess…

Does this mean it passes the pencil test? Lol! My other C59A block is the same.