My next adventure

miniceptor86

miniceptor86

Senior Member
In my previous vacuum guage thread I closed with “off to the next adventure” I will add also the the motor runs great even though I suspect it’s a little tired but I don’t want to check the compression and open that can of worms, something’s are better left unknown for the present.

My next project is to refinish the steering wheel. It’s off and in the final stages of JB weld and sanding, the column drop is refinished as is the tube and the center cap. But I made the mistake of trying to take up some of the steering wheel play and while the tires were off the ground I checked for lose wheel bearings turned them right and left and the steering box sounds like a rock crusher. I would like to take it out but I don’t have a hoist. The headers look a little in the way for going out through the passenger compartment. So finally the question. Can I get it out the bottom? I was thinking of possibly just getting the whole axle assembly out of the way?
 
I have read where a lot of people, even at the request of the rebuilder cut the shaft and tube maybe six inches above the box and send it in that way. Sleeve the shaft and weld back. If it were me I would cut it now, deal with it, rebuild etc and weld er up. Think about the stresses. Shaft maybe 5/8" , circumference like an inch and 3/4 of weld to shear off by arm strength.
 
Does anyone have more advice before I cut the steering shaft to remove the steering box? I will get the sleeve before I cut and index it for length and clocking. Any more input would be appreciated.
 
miniceptor86 said:
Does anyone have more advice before I cut the steering shaft to remove the steering box? I will get the sleeve before I cut and index it for length and clocking. Any more input would be appreciated.
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You're gonna really regret cutting that column to get the box out. There must be a better way than taking an ax to it. You do realize that there is a tube for the headlights inside that shaft? DD
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Yes V8Coopman, I have the inner tube out with the center cap painted and ready to go back in. I’m not really sure about cutting the shaft so looking for other approaches. Dropping the whole front axle assembly is doable for me if it would give me enough room? All the axle fasteners are clean and rust free as are the new brake lines so no extra effort there. I would just like to be reasonably sure that I would have the clearance needed.
 
miniceptor86 said:
In my previous vacuum guage thread I closed with “off to the next adventure” I will add also the the motor runs great even though I suspect it’s a little tired but I don’t want to check the compression and open that can of worms, something’s are better left unknown for the present.
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You mentioned in the other thread the engine manifold is pulling steady 20" it can therefore probably be inferred cylinder compression is satisfactory. A vacuum test doesn't replace the compression test, but it's close and a lot less hassle. There is a reason for compression testing being on Pg. 1 para. 1 first thing front and center, but compression is almost certainly not too far off the beam.
 
Hey Crankster! Right now something’s are best unknown. It runs ok, doesn’t smoke, has its share of blowby. Had it out to repair oil pan leak and from what I saw it looks old but what I don’t know or want to know is how tired it is. It also steered OK, just a little slop that I tried to adjust out and then like I said I made the mistake of grabbing hold of a wheel and turning it right and left and heard the marbles rattling around, now I HAVE TO FIX it. Maybe next year I’ll do the compression test and HAVE TO freshen the engine up. Just trying to keep the money bleed under control.
 
I have a stupid question. If one has a lift (or can get the car jacked up far enough), can the steering gear be removed from the bottom after removing the steering wheel and the appropriate fasteners?
 
miniceptor86 said:
Hey Crankster! Right now something’s are best unknown.
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Yabut, that's what I'm trying to tell you, if it's pulling 20" vacuum you already know compression is acceptable. Don't stress over this! Try some Marvel's in both the gas and oil per the directions on the can if it seems a little down on power.

Lower compression is caused by excessive wear in piston rings and cylinders but oftentimes this can be deceptive, in vintage engines it can also be caused by excessive carbon & gum varnish resulting in stuck piston rings. A solvent like Marvel's really helps with this, it was designed for dissolving carbon and gum residues, it also helps keeps valves moving freely too. It won't repair worn rings, but it's worth eliminating stuck rings as a possibility.
 
Tubman, I guess this is exactly what I’m going to find out but the info I’ve run across says you need a lift. Stupid me for building with 10’ ceiling and having other toys. I have decided to jack it up and see what clearance I have. If not enough I will remove the front axle assy.

Crankster, I wouldn’t know if it is down on power from what it should be. I drive a ‘14 F150 3.5 Ecoboost so the flathead is definitely down on power in comparison. Since I set the timing and carb plus the guide for the pedal rod so it wasn’t moving side to side 4” it is way better than before. I can sense it being strangled at higher rpm’s so I’m thinking about a Merc manifold and GM two barrel and a modified sbc distributor. But that’s a ways off. Right now I’m just happy as a hog in slop driving it, glass packs, 3 on the floor, no power steering or brakes.
 
tubman said:
I have a stupid question. If one has a lift (or can get the car jacked up far enough), can the steering gear be removed from the bottom after removing the steering wheel and the appropriate fasteners?
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I don't know why the steering box could not be removed from the bottom. The picture below shows what is likely a '38 Ford because of the visible cable conduits for the cable brakes. Otherwise, it ought to be pretty close to what you have. This picture shows the RUSTY engine pans in place. MOST cars of this vintage have had their engine pans removed. Without the pans in place, I'm not sure that there would be any problem with the box/column coming out the bottom except for possibly the tie rod being in the way. Tie rods come off easily! Second shot shows a straight-down view of the drag link and tie rod on another '38 with V8-60 engine (that goofy-looking bracket is a V8-60 engine mount). With drag link disconnected, that box/column should almost FALL out of there. DD


357759


357757
 
I have a 1937 5 window coupe. I was able to remove the entire steering box and column assembly out through the car with the steering wheel installed. The seat was not attached to the floor and the left floorboard was removed. Also no engine in the frame. I don't know if having the engine installed would prevent getting the steering box through the opening.
 
The headers welded to the exhaust pipes on mine look to block the out through the inside route. I have the steering wheel off, the column tube the column drop and the horn/light switch rod removed.

Another question: are both of the upper bushings for the steering shaft the same? My top one didn’t look the same as the just above the column drop. But the top one was more deteriorated than the bottom one. It was soft and gooey and conformed to the flare as it poked out of the column outer tube.
 
I started on the steering box project. It’s up in the air, ties dangling from the spring. Pitman arm nut off via a punch on the slots in the nut (I’ll have to get the proper socket for reassembly. Dropping the drag link was a little more challenging but a little heat from a small butane torch convinced it!
 
miniceptor86 said:
I started on the steering box project. It’s up in the air, ties dangling from the spring. Pitman arm nut off via a punch on the slots in the nut (I’ll have to get the proper socket for reassembly. Dropping the drag link was a little more challenging but a little heat from a small butane torch convinced it!
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Yikes ...You had better check that seal where the sector exits the steering box casting. That much concentrated heat may have fried the seal. You mean that everybody doesn't have a Pitman arm puller? Mine's a "Lisle" brand that I've likely had for 55 years now. DD

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I’m not thinking that seal was warmed much. It’s just a micro butane torch and I only used it on the drag link end of the pitman arm. Thanks
 
Box is out and disassembled. Pitman arm popped off with the three jaw gear puller. Sector gear is toast, worm gear is toast, all the bearings are toast. But the sector shaft bushings look and feel good with the old shaft. Now to source parts. Get the one bearing cup ( steering wheel shaft) out and clean things up.
 
picture.php
I tackled the steering wheel. Ground out cracks and filled with JBWeld

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/pict...orum/picture.php?albumid=5387&pictureid=44297
 
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