My new project. And introduction.

[ford38v8]

Ken, you might be interested in knowing that when Ford introduced its hydraulic brake system in 1939, it took another 11 years to just equal the superiority of the mechanical (cable) brakes of its 1937-38 predecessor.
People assume that the hydraulics were better because they were a newer system, and perhaps there was some truth in that for other manufacturers, but Ford refused to pay royalties for a better system until 1949. Today, of course, disc brakes rule, but that conversion can get pricey.

 

[AZMerc39]

Ken, you might be interested in knowing that when Ford introduced its hydraulic brake system in 1939, it took another 11 years to just equal the superiority of the mechanical (cable) brakes of its 1937-38 predecessor.
People assume that the hydraulics were better because they were a newer system, and perhaps there was some truth in that for other manufacturers, but Ford refused to pay royalties for a better system until 1949. Today, of course, disc brakes rule, but that conversion can get pricey.

I see and appreciate the info. I wasn't going to OEM hydro, but look into doing a dual cylinder if i had to start without hydro. I probably still will somewhere in the process, as I was researching this forum to see what others have done.

 

[38 coupe]

Here are some pictures of the A/C install on the 41 Mercury I mentioned earlier. It is a Vintage Air kit if I remember correctly. You can see the distance between the grill and the radiator, the A/C condenser is close to the grill with an electric fan on the back.

Overdrive was technically an aftermarket option, a Columbia two speed axle kit. Columbia would ship the kit to your local Ford dealer for installation on your new car.

 

[mhsprecher]

Great car. Have fun with it.

 

[petehoovie]

Here are some pictures of the A/C install on the 41 Mercury I mentioned earlier. It is a Vintage Air kit if I remember correctly. You can see the distance between the grill and the radiator, the A/C condenser is close to the grill with an electric fan on the back.

Overdrive was technically an aftermarket option, a Columbia two speed axle kit. Columbia would ship the kit to your local Ford dealer for installation on your new car.

 

[Lanny]

AZMerc39, welcome to the Barn. You mentioned possibly using a
modern drive train in your '39.
Keeping a Ford product in a Ford product would be a good choice.
Ford's 302/351 were very good and can be found with good trans.




.

 

[AZMerc39]

Here are some pictures of the A/C install on the 41 Mercury I mentioned earlier. It is a Vintage Air kit if I remember correctly. You can see the distance between the grill and the radiator, the A/C condenser is close to the grill with an electric fan on the back.

Overdrive was technically an aftermarket option, a Columbia two speed axle kit. Columbia would ship the kit to your local Ford dealer for installation on your new car.

Thank you. That car is gorgeous. Would i be able to tell from the axle or is there a different way to know if its installed?

Great car. Have fun with it.

Thank you! Im close to having all of main things i want/need to get for it sourced, so i can start working on it. Mostly new seals/gaskets/bearings etc. Still lots to do after, but getting the engine apart is higher priority.

AZMerc39, welcome to the Barn. You mentioned possibly using a
modern drive train in your '39.
Keeping a Ford product in a Ford product would be a good choice.
Ford's 302/351 were very good and can be found with good trans.

Thank you! I may have misspoken. I want to keep the flathead in it, but i am looking at modernizing it. Someone has already done the 12v conversion and put an electronic fuel pump on it. I know speedway has the valve set that says its supposed to help the cars run better on modern gas. Im by guessing by using modern materials that can tolerate the ethanol? Electronic rad fan to help when stuck in traffic. High flow oil pump. And i think i recall somewhere about being able to use the internals of a later model ford that are slightly more beefy but still fit into the 39 housing. A better diff gear ratio.




.

 

[ford38v8]

Ken, as you are on a path to learning, you must first acknowledge the major difference between advice gained from retailers and advice gained from those who have been there done that. Don’t get me wrong, we wouldn’t do well without our suppliers, but they do need to sell their products to survive, which means that some products are sold to those who may have been better off without them. For this reason, seek confirmation from the experts before laying out your hard earned money on parts and systems said to improve your drivability.
I won’t comment on each item you cite for “modernization” in your last post, but suffice it to be said that there’s a lot of money to be spent… or saved by good research.

 

[AZMerc39]

Ken, as you are on a path to learning, you must first acknowledge the major difference between advice gained from retailers and advice gained from those who have been there done that. Don’t get me wrong, we wouldn’t do well without our suppliers, but they do need to sell their products to survive, which means that some products are sold to those who may have been better off without them. For this reason, seek confirmation from the experts before laying out your hard earned money on parts and systems said to improve your drivability.
I won’t comment on each item you cite for “modernization” in your last post, but suffice it to be said that there’s a lot of money to be spent… or saved by good research.

Definitely good advice. Research is why i haven't spent any money yet, since I dont know whats good and whats not.

I did misremember what the description said. It was the hardened valves that they were talking about.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/1932...alvetrain-Rebuild-Kit-with-Valves,417787.html

But im not buying anything right now until i get the motor out and apart to see what kind of condition its in.

 

[38 coupe]

Ford had good hard valves suitable for unleaded gas in all the flathead V8s. The valves before 1949 had an odd design with a widened tip where they contacted the lifter and a split valve guide to make assembly possible. The split guides work, but allow some oil to be pulled up the intakes. The later guides and valves make assembly easier and burn a bit less oil. Many flatheads got the later valves installed over the years, I would look at what is in the engine already before spending money on new parts you may not need.


Ford had good hard valve seats from 1932 through 1950, then progressively eliminated the hard seats.


A Columbia rear axle is visually different from a standard axle, your car probably does not have one. Most 39-48 Mercuries came from the factory with 3.54 ratio ring & pinion, a favored higher speed gear set in the Ford crowd. Also, Mercuries from 1939 through 1941 had the drive shaft and pinion gear made as one part, making rear axle ratio changes more difficult. I recommend getting your car in driving condition and seeing how everything feels before making plans to change stuff. Driving the car will inform you what you needs to be repaired or changed.

 

[AZMerc39]

Ford had good hard valves suitable for unleaded gas in all the flathead V8s. The valves before 1949 had an odd design with a widened tip where they contacted the lifter and a split valve guide to make assembly possible. The split guides work, but allow some oil to be pulled up the intakes. The later guides and valves make assembly easier and burn a bit less oil. Many flatheads got the later valves installed over the years, I would look at what is in the engine already before spending money on new parts you may not need.


Ford had good hard valve seats from 1932 through 1950, then progressively eliminated the hard seats.


A Columbia rear axle is visually different from a standard axle, your car probably does not have one. Most 39-48 Mercuries came from the factory with 3.54 ratio ring & pinion, a favored higher speed gear set in the Ford crowd. Also, Mercuries from 1939 through 1941 had the drive shaft and pinion gear made as one part, making rear axle ratio changes more difficult. I recommend getting your car in driving condition and seeing how everything feels before making plans to change stuff. Driving the car will inform you what you needs to be repaired or changed.

Thank you. Taking the motor apart is definitely step one before i buy anything...aside from gaskets/seals. I do need to change the ignition to be able to get it driving again. Or remove and get the code and a new key, and reinstall. What size battery do these use? Mine is 12v already.

Interesting. I thought they had came with the 4.11s so thats good to know. Maybe that was only the Fords. I still have lots to learn. I do plan on taking the axle apart as well anyway because i saw some leaks from the diff when i was transporting it. Arizona destroys seals, especially the ones that arent being used from sitting which this was. I also need to get it on a lift to check wheel bearings and front end stuff like tie-rods.

 

[38 coupe]

If you are planning to tear into the engine you probably should identify which variation of Ford flathead V8 is in your car. If your engine is in good shape and runs decently I would leave well enough alone and enjoy what you have.
There are multiple versions that will work well, but take different parts. There is a thread here with a lot of information that can help you identify what you have: https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=334280&showall=1

 

[Clem Clement]

SURE, LOOKS LIKE A '39 Merc. LOVE IT.

 

[AZMerc39]

If you are planning to tear into the engine you probably should identify which variation of Ford flathead V8 is in your car. If your engine is in good shape and runs decently I would leave well enough alone and enjoy what you have.
There are multiple versions that will work well, but take different parts. There is a thread here with a lot of information that can help you identify what you have: https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=334280&showall=1

Good point! I haven't gotten around to that yet either which is also part of why i haven't bought anything. I think its supposed to be a 99 at 239CI, but that doesnt mean thats whats still in it. Ill check out that thread now.

EDIT. I meant to say 99, not 81A.

 

[AZMerc39]

SURE, LOOKS LIKE A '39 Merc. LOVE IT.

Thank you!

 

[AZMerc39]

I tried the search tool as i'm sure this question has been answered, but it wasn't bringing up anything. What oil do i need for the motor. From what I know it has to have zinc, should be conventional/non-synth. But do we have a prefered brand, winter, and how much do i need? I dont have a oil filter yet.

Also, What 12v battery do I need?

I want to see if i can get the merc started this weekend to see if i can find leaks.

 

[AZMerc39]

bump

 

[ford38v8]

Ken, modern multi grade detergent oil of any brand is far superior to anything available back in the day. Zinc additive is overkill for a Ford flathead, although needed for an early overhead or a flathead with a non-stock cam. Synthetic is excellent also but some guys report excessive oil drips in the driveway. 12 volt system conversions work, but are more of a bandaid than a fix, and present their own problems. 6 volt with clean tight connections works as original. With either, gel cel batteries are a favorite, but a simple inexpensive 6 volt can be had from a tractor supply store

 

[AZMerc39]

Ken, modern multi grade detergent oil of any brand is far superior to anything available back in the day. Zinc additive is overkill for a Ford flathead, although needed for an early overhead or a flathead with a non-stock cam. Synthetic is excellent also but some guys report excessive oil drips in the driveway. 12 volt system conversions work, but are more of a bandaid than a fix, and present their own problems. 6 volt with clean tight connections works as original. With either, gel cel batteries are a favorite, but a simple inexpensive 6 volt can be had from a tractor supply store

Thank you. I read to was suppose to avoid modern oil, so thats why i asked. Any recommendations?

Also, the car has already been converted to 12v prior to me, but idk what size fits in the tray.

 

[ford38v8]

Well, my built 59L engine used Mobil 1 10-40, driven all over these lower 48, never a problem. “ Your mileage may differ. “
I used an Optima 6v inside a Ford 2LF. Your battery would have originally been Ford 2HF. (IDK the modern designation)