My "New" Car Won't Start

johnr9q@yahoo.com

johnr9q@yahoo.com

Senior Member
I have done everything you all have suggested and tried to start it. I followed Paul Shin's video. I tried squirting starter fluid into the Carburator, nothing. I checked for spark, placed the coil to distribuator cable next to a bolt and shorted accross the points and it seems to have good spark. With the ignition on or off I have 6 volts only on one of the electric leads to the coil.
 
If you squirted starter fluid into the carburetor and it still did not try to start then that points to the ignition system. Since you are getting a spark from the high tension lead when you short across the points then the coil is good and probably also the condensor. So that points to the points. Either change the points or clean them by running a folded piece of 400 grit wet and dry paper through the closed points. Then snap them closed to remove any residue grit by opening the closed points with your finger and letting go. With the points closed and ignition off you should measure close to zero ohms across them with your multimeter.

The other thing to check is the timing. If you have a Model B front cover over the timing gear you will not get the right timing with the timing pin. To check look in the #1 cylinder with a flash light to make sure that the piston is at the top when the timing pin has pushed into the detent in the timing gear. You can rock the engine back and forth to observe the piston at the top. Also make sure the points have a gap of 0.020 inch when the distributor cam has them fully open. Also check that the rotor is near or at the "contact" in the distributor housing for number #1 plug.

The ultimate test for the ignition system is to lay the plugs on the head with the leads connected and turn the engine over with the ignition on. All plugs should fire when the corresponding pistons are at the top of the compression stroke. You can put your thumb in the spark plug hole to know when the piston is at the top on the compression stroke.
 
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johnr9q@yahoo.com said:
I have done everything you all have suggested and tried to start it. I followed Paul Shin's video. I tried squirting starter fluid into the Carburator, nothing. I checked for spark, placed the coil to distribuator cable next to a bolt and shorted accross the points and it seems to have good spark. With the ignition on or off I have 6 volts only on one of the electric leads to the coil.
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should have 6+ volts both sides coil! Not to be smart but did you turn the gas on! It does happen..!! Electrical problem, take your time check all items. Do you have a cut off switch? Blown fuse.? etc etc.
 
johnr9q@yahoo.com said:
.... With the ignition on or off I have 6 volts only on one of the electric leads to the coil.
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There's the issue. If you have 6 volts (measured to ground) on one side of the coil and nothing on the other *with the points open*, then your coil's primary is likely open circuit. In other words- Bad coil.
 
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If you lay the spark plugs on the cylinder head, still connected to the plastic distributor body, be advised that the firing order is 1-2-4-3. You should see the electrodes firing in that order.

Have you tried a different plastic distributor body? Long story short - A brand-new distributor body failed me in a rainstorm on a cross-country drive years ago. I could not get the engine to start. I finally scrounged up a crusty old original distributor body, installed it and the engine instantly roared to life. The new one had an internal crack that would not pass electricity to fire the spark plugs. Try a different body.
Marshall
 
I don't know the history of your car. Was it running at some point since you have owned it? As others said, check for spark at plugs and timing but also check that the rotor is actually turning. Check to see if you have compression. If the cam gear is bad, you will have zero compression.
 
If the cam gear is bad, you will have zero compression....

...and the engine will spin over much faster than you're used to hearing = stripped timing gear. Or if you have inconsistent compression, some teeth may have sheared off the fiber timing gear, but enough are still left to occasionally mesh with the crankshaft gear. The engine will be constantly out of time if this is the case and never start.
M.
 
You say you are getting good spark. Is that from manually opening and closing the ignition points or when you turn the engine over by the starter? If the former, that will not tell you if the timing gear is stripped. Use the starter to check the spark operation. You should also lift the distributor cap (connected to the coil) to see if the distributor shaft is turning, as has been suggested. No turning = stripped timing gear.
M.
 
Marshall V. Daut, you asked "You say you are getting good spark. Is that from manually opening and closing the ignition points or when you turn the engine over by the starter?" Read my first post for that answer. I will check the compression. I rechecked the timing and when I was turning the crankshaft the cam in the distributor was turning so seems like the timing gear is okay. I still haven't gotten answer on why I have 6 volts on only one terminl on the coil yet I am getting good spark. Tomorrow I will buy another coil, distribuator cap, points and condensor and see if that helps.
nKaminar you said: So that points to the points. Either change the points or clean them by running a folded piece of 400 grit wet and dry paper through the closed points. Then snap them closed to remove any residue grit by opening the closed points with your finger and letting go. With the points closed and ignition off you should measure close to zero ohms across them with your multimeter. I cleaned them and double checked the Gap at .020

The other thing to check is the timing. If you have a Model B front cover over the timing gear you will not get the right timing with the timing pin. To check look in the #1 cylinder with a flash light to make sure that the piston is at the top when the timing pin has pushed into the detent in the timing gear. You can rock the engine back and forth to observe the piston at the top. I did check if the #1 piston was at TDC with the Timing gear detent at TDC. Also make sure the points have a gap of 0.020 inch when the distributor cam has them fully open. It is .020 Also check that the rotor is near or at the "contact" in the distributor housing for number #1 plug. It is

The ultimate test for the ignition system is to lay the plugs on the head with the leads connected and turn the engine over with the ignition on. All plugs should fire when the corresponding pistons are at the top of the compression stroke. You can put your thumb in the spark plug hole to know when the piston is at the top on the compression stroke. I haven't done this yet, I'll do it tomorrow.
 
johnr9-
When the points are open you'll have 6v to both sides of the coil. Closed there will be 6v on one side only. This is with key "on" of course.
 
P.S. said:
There's the issue. If you have 6 volts (measured to ground) on one side of the coil and nothing on the other, your coil's primary is open circuit. In other words- Bad coil.
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This is incorrect. If the points are closed there is only 6v one side. This is why, when timing your car with a test light, the light comes on when the points open.
 
Good spark--does that mean a barely discernible little orange spark or a 3/8-inch white spark (my definition of a good spark). If not, then the problem could be any of the afore mentioned issues. Make sure all of your battery and ground connections are good, tight and clean. If you have the original braded ground cable, replace it with a new heavy cable. Also a good idea to install a cable between engine and frame. I speak from the experience of dealing with the same situation as yours. Finally noticed the vacuum wiper tube getting warm trying to compensate for poor grounding.
 
goodcar said:
Good spark--does that mean a barely discernible little orange spark or a 3/8-inch white spark (my definition of a good spark). If not, then the problem could be any of the afore mentioned issues. Make sure all of your battery and ground connections are good, tight and clean. If you have the original braded ground cable, replace it with a new heavy cable. Also a good idea to install a cable between engine and frame. I speak from the experience of dealing with the same situation as yours. Finally noticed the vacuum wiper tube getting warm trying to compensate for poor grounding.
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See highlighted blue text above.

1. Also I have noticed years ago that the copper or steel fuel line gets warm when cranking with poor ground due to the current finding the easiest path when the normal grounds are missing.

2. Also one time years ago the rubber grommet was missing from the choke rod and there was arcing and sparking at the upper support for choke rod while cranking.

3. (SEE green above) I recently found one of those 6 inch long flat braided ground cables (recently new Repro) had a bad connection where the flat braided cable connects (crimped connection) to the connector for the battery terminal.

Engine was cranking slower than normal sometimes (even after battery was replaced).

The final clue was an "arcing" sound sometimes when pressing starter switch and then one time smoke came out of the bad connection area when I happened to be watching.

4. As Goodcar mentioned above there was an extra ground cable installed on the car years before the trouble started.
 
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Benson said:
See highlighted blue text above.

1. Also I have noticed that the copper or steel fuel line gets warm when cranking with poor ground due to the current finding the easiest path when the normal grounds are missing.

2. Also one time the rubber grommet was missing from the choke rod and there was arcing and sparking at the upper support for choke rod while cranking.

3. I recently found one of those 6 inch long flat braided ground cables (recently new Repro) had a bad connection where the flat braided cable connects (crimped connection) to the connector for the battery cable.

The clue was an "arcing" sound and then one time smoke came out of the bad connection area.
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The engine pans provide a good ground path between the engine and frame. People who remove them are doing themselves a disservice.
 
I took all the spark plugs out and placed each spark plug so it was grounded against the block, turned the engine over and no spark. I am going right now to Vintage Sac Ford and Get a new coil, Distributor cap, points and condensor. If you can think of something else I might need, call me at 916 769 8149, thanks (John)
 
johnr9q@yahoo.com said:
I took all the spark plugs out and placed each spark plug so it was grounded against the block, turned the engine over and no spark. I am going right now to Vintage Sac Ford and Get a new coil, Distributor cap, points and condensor. If you can think of something else I might need, call me at 916 769 8149, thanks (John)
Click to expand...
Change out one item at a time!! And Check!
 
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