My lights went out!

FrankWest

FrankWest

Well-known member
My car now has increased power with carb repair and new fuel hoses..
So much power that all my lights went out..Headlights, tail and brake...
Strange...They always worked well before...Checked and changed the ONLY fuse I have...Fuse was ok..but changed it anyway...
No effect.
 
There should be only a couple of areas that can cause all the lighting to go out. There should be three Yellow/Black wires to one side of the Fuse. Two of these are the power wires, one from the Battery via the amp meter and the other one from the Generator. The third wire goes to the Ignition Switch and then back to the Resistor next to Fuse. From the Resistor there is a Red wire to the Coil. If the car will still start and run, then there is power to all these wires and to the Fuse.
The other side of the Fuse should have a Yellow/Red wire that goes from the Fuse to the Light Control Switch at the base of the Steering Column. The only place all of the Lights come together is at the Light Switch. If the Brakes are not working then it just about has to be a problem with the Yellow/Red wire as the Brake wire (Green) connects to it at the Switch and should be HOT all the time.
The color coding is normally almost impossible to see on the wiring as it fades!
 

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Great! Thanks for the fast response....
Seems like one crucial wire may have failed due to the increased power "vibrations"
I never replaced my wiring and assume that I have original...It looks like original insulation.
I just found this schematic in my 1933 v8 owners manual..I assume it is the same for the model B 1933 too.

I forgot to add...Horn works!

Does that light switch and the bottom of the steering column go bad often??
 
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On the early Fords with cloth insulated wire, it's not unusual to have a wire short out due to cracked or worn insulation. It's nice to have the extra power but it may not have much to do with the electrical problem other than the car is being driven.
 
rotorwrench said:
On the early Fords with cloth insulated wire, it's not unusual to have a wire short out due to cracked or worn insulation. It's nice to have the extra power but it may not have much to do with the electrical problem other than the car is being driven.
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Just foolin...
My wiring is original.. I can tell from the way it looks and several wires have bird caging where the insulation has pulled Away. Should be time to put in some new wiring.
hopefully I can replace key sections at a time rather than an entire wire harness..
So that I will not become overwhelmed with the task. Is MAC's a decent place to look for wire harnesses or is there someplace that sells more quality harnesses?
 
I'm not sure about the 33/34 models but a lot of the early open head lamp models has twist & lock connectors on the headlamps like the model A cars that I am more familiar with. If your stuff in original then save every part for reuse or repair. A lot of the new stuff doesn't hold a candle to the original Ford stuff. I'f your stuff in older reproduction then that might be one of your problems.
 
rotorwrench said:
I'm not sure about the 33/34 models but a lot of the early open head lamp models has twist & lock connectors on the headlamps like the model A cars that I am more familiar with. If your stuff in original then save every part for reuse or repair. A lot of the new stuff doesn't hold a candle to the original Ford stuff. I'f your stuff in older reproduction then that might be one of your problems.
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I'll lookout for that..Thanks
 
I found two yellow wires under my dash that are attached to a clip or clamp.
Hard to see.....I am at that stage in life where I need 5 different pairs of eye glasses to see objects at different distances, If I can get close enough to smell the object then I can see it clearly without my glasses, But anyway were clips every used for ground connections?? Say to the frame or is always done with screws...for safety.
 
YNZ yesterday's parts for your replacement wiring harness. (909) 798-1498 or the good Ole' google search brings there page right up. Top notch wiring even for modern mods like adding flashers, they even wired in a safety breaker for the whole system so you can't burn your car up and hid it very nicely. They can even wire up for 12v to 6v inverters or vice versa. Or you also have Tyree Harris in Bumpass VA, he advertises in V8 Times. He does a nice "as stock" harness.
 
rockfla said:
YNZ yesterday's parts for your replacement wiring harness. (909) 798-1498 or the good Ole' google search brings there page right up. Top notch wiring even for modern mods like adding flashers, they even wired in a safety breaker for the whole system so you can't burn your car up and hid it very nicely. They can even wire up for 12v to 6v inverters or vice versa. Or you also have Tyree Harris in Bumpass VA, he advertises in V8 Times. He does a nice "as stock" harness.
Click to expand...
Thanks...I very appreciate your help...MAC's has been selling a lot of china and india made stuff lately...
 
Rhode Island Wire is not cheep but they lacquer coat their cloth covered wire. Most of the repro stuff is plain cloth weave with no coating since it covers a more modern insulation.
 
rotorwrench said:
Rhode Island Wire is not cheep but they lacquer coat their cloth covered wire. Most of the repro stuff is plain cloth weave with no coating since it covers a more modern insulation.
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Thanks!!! Rhode Island sounds like what I want...
All the work in replacing the harness...I rather use the best I can get..
And most original..
Thanks
 
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JSeery said:
They sell both wire by the foot or complete harness.
Click to expand...

I am going to try to isolate the bad connection by your instructions before I begin rewiring everything. It seems strange that all the lights are off.
Maybe the switch went bad? anyway, i will definitely buy from Rhode Island when the time comes....Too often I but stuff from MAC/s because I don't know any better.. I rather but the best in this car...It is my only antique car.
 
Better yet, Rhode Island Wiring knows the difference between the harnesses for fours and V-8s and they are likely the only supplier in the U.S. who also offer RHD harnesses.
 
My guess is the problem is either the fuse/fuse bracket or the wire between the fuse and the light switch. Do you have a volt meter or circuit tester (probe that lights up)? Start by checking both sides of fuse. And have fun getting to it!
 
JSeery said:
My guess is the problem is either the fuse/fuse bracket or the wire between the fuse and the light switch. Do you have a volt meter or circuit tester (probe that lights up)? Start by checking both sides of fuse. And have fun getting to it!
Click to expand...
I plan to do that this morning.
I will check to see which wire is live.
On the schematic there is a lot going on around that light switch.
Trying to think back what I recently changed on the car.
Several weeks ago I switched out my generator...
Could the new generator and power cut off switch be causing the problem?
 
As previously mentioned, get a volt/ohm meter. Check for voltage on either side of the fuse. If none there, follow back towards the battery and check for breaks or splices in the feed. Wiring on these are extremely basic and easy to follow with a meter and schematic.
As far as harnesses go, only buy the best with the proper connectors.
PS-The horn circuit does not run through the fuse. Fuse is only for lights.
 
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