My First Flathead! 35 Standard

TNTim said:
The mods that I know of are the following.



Another question. Previous owner has added a switch to provide power directly to the “-“ post of the coil. When I got the car, that wire at the distributor was disconnected. Why would you put this wire on the same side that goes to the distributor? Isn’t that bypassing the resistance in the coil?
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This is usually done if you have a hard-starting engine. It momentarily (when you flip the switch) supplies a full 6v to the coil to aid in starting. Just remember to flip the switch back after she cranks up. BELOW is a picture of "Charlie ny" testing someone's new carb rebuild on his test engine.


Charlie ny - Contact

cas5845@yahoo.com (716) 440-8952 OR (716) 662-9159


Charlie Schwindler
5845 Cole Road
Orchard Park NY 14127


RbMre09.jpg
 
TNTim said:
Hello all,

New here. Always wanted a 30’s Ford car. Just recently picked up a really clean and mostly original 35 Standard Tudor.

Original 81k car. Bought from second owner.
Original interior
Repainted once in the 60’s.
Mostly original except juice brakes (good thing). Engine rebuilt a few thousand miles ago.

It has been sitting for about 20 years but in the dry.

So far I haven’t been able to get it started. No spark coming from the distributor. I have spark coming from the coil. Condenser and coil test good.

No clue or experience with one of these distributors. Should I fix this or look for an adapter and swap to a crab style distributor?

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Nice ‘35 flat back! Favored in many circles! Looks like mine’s twin when I bought mine! I wasn’t an early ford or a Flathead guy but am now! Loved the project. I went w newer version 8BA but built it w crab Dist on front of engine. I’ve had mine since 2012! U will love & enjoy it. I’ll keep an eye out & if I can help w anything feel free to contact me.
 

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Yes, do keep it stock. Speaking of that, get rid of that little thing that does not filter the air. Someone else can clarify it, but if '35 uses the same air filter as '36, I may know of one available.
 
If you check with Mac VanPelt web site you can find the original wiring diagram. For Ford the battery - goes to a resistor mounted under the dash above the steering column it then goes to the ignition switch. From the ignition switch to the coil and from the coil to ground+ through the distributor points Don't run an original coil without the resistor. An do not leave the ignition switch in the ON position if the engine has stalled. Both of these can destroy the original coil.
The resistor drops the voltage to the coil to about 2.6V. When you check the voltage at the coil, if the distributor points are both open you will find full battery voltage, with either of the two distributor points closed you will have the 2.6 Volts.

Your car does appear in great condition. Over the years several modifications have been done, which is very typical of an unrestored original car. IMO get the car running dependably is a great start.
 
So I went out and tried to start again. Fired right up! So something is going on when it gets up to temp. I first thought vapor lock but I only drove the car easy a few miles.

I found this over on the HAMB

"Be aware that tired coils do about the same as Chinese condensers...power drops off as car gets up to running temp, deteriorates, then no longer runs. Everything back to fine after half an hour of cooling down."


The coil i put on was a used Argentina made coil. No idea other than it measured ok. I also made sure the inline resistor was connected as well.
 
Yes both the ignition condenser and the coil can become problems with heat. typically NAPA has fairly good condensers and an original Ford coil rebuilt by Skip Haney in Fla is a good combination. Skip can provide the condenser also as well as rebuilding water pumps, and other items. Skip often has original coil cores.
 
I’ve got a later distributor and coil. 2 screw coil.

It did the same thing tonight. Warmed it up and tried to restart and nothing. Waited about 30 min and it fired right up.

It stays running but if I shut it down and restart it will not fire until i let it cool down.
 

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TNTim said:
I’ve got a later distributor and coil. 2 screw coil.

It did the same thing tonight. Warmed it up and tried to restart and nothing. Waited about 30 min and it fired right up.

It stays running but if I shut it down and restart it will not fire until i let it cool down.
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531979


531980
 
Keep in mind, that white "cloth like" connection on the hot air out of the manifold is made of ASBESTOS. Even if the system is CO proof, the chance of breathing asbestos fibers should concern you.
 
TNTim: Check posting #47 above. Your ignition condenser appears to be NOS which is way tooooo old since they can deteriorate with age. If your coil does not have the Ford script on top, it is aftermarket and Skip may have an original core. With the distributor off your vehicle now is a good time to take it apart and clean and lube.
 
Got my rebuilt coil back from Skip. He had a Ford script coil which was awesome. Got it put on and only had time to fire it up to see that it works. Need to get time to let it run awhile.
 
Terry said:
TNTim: Check posting #47 above. Your ignition condenser appears to be NOS which is way tooooo old since they can deteriorate with age. If your coil does not have the Ford script on top, it is aftermarket and Skip may have an original core. With the distributor off your vehicle now is a good time to take it apart and clean and lube.
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I did check the Vacuum and lubed it. I was afraid to take a lot apart as it would need to be setup on a machine I assume.
 
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