tubman
Well-known member
I was going to add this to the current Engine Test Stand" thread, but decided it would not be a good idea to clutter that up, so I am starting a new thread.
When I went to the shop today, took some pictures of my test stand for general information and because I promised "rockfla" that I would. I will emphasize to start that I intended this stand to be as universal as it could be. It is still a "work in progress" but it is almost done. One of the things I want to do is to replace the "dashboard" with something more substantial with better labels.
Starting at the front, there is a huge gap between the radiator and the engine. That is intentional, in case I ever find the 356 ci 9-bearing Packard I want or maybe a 320 ci Buick Roadmaster that's always been on my list. I have also attached a garage sale "box fan" in front of the radiator so I don't have to fool around with engine fans. It has 3 speeds, but only needs to be run on low. Although that's an 8BA on it now, it has truck pumps so it picks up the standard '41-'48 Ford mounts, which will accommodate the Hurst series of engine mounts.
In the rear, you can see the cut up Harbor Freight engine stand that I use as a rear mount. In this case, the bell housing is mounted to the engine as it is required to have a starter. If necessary, the back of the block can be mounted directly.
The "dashboard" is quite confusing at first as the stand is set up to run 6 volts positive ground as well as 12 volt negative ground by changing the battery and flipping a switch. There is a Master Power Switch and also a "6/12 volt" Selector switch. Above that is a switch that allows me to use a ballast resistor in the ignition circuit if desired. The stand has a standard suite of gauges consisting of a voltmeter, an oil pressure gauge, a water temperature gauge, a vacuum gauge, a Tachometer, and an O2 meter. There is also a starter button, a hand throttle, and indicator lights that tell you what voltage you are running.
For those of you who are worrying about rings not seating, I intend to use this mainly to test used engines. As I stated in an earlier thread, I have already had a couple of flatheads on it, as well as my spare early hemi and a '51 Olds Rocket. Oh yeah, that red box in the last picture is an old engine test box I also got at a garage sale. It is there because it has a couple of functions that are missing (a dwell meter for one), and because I have no where else to put it.
When I went to the shop today, took some pictures of my test stand for general information and because I promised "rockfla" that I would. I will emphasize to start that I intended this stand to be as universal as it could be. It is still a "work in progress" but it is almost done. One of the things I want to do is to replace the "dashboard" with something more substantial with better labels.
Starting at the front, there is a huge gap between the radiator and the engine. That is intentional, in case I ever find the 356 ci 9-bearing Packard I want or maybe a 320 ci Buick Roadmaster that's always been on my list. I have also attached a garage sale "box fan" in front of the radiator so I don't have to fool around with engine fans. It has 3 speeds, but only needs to be run on low. Although that's an 8BA on it now, it has truck pumps so it picks up the standard '41-'48 Ford mounts, which will accommodate the Hurst series of engine mounts.
In the rear, you can see the cut up Harbor Freight engine stand that I use as a rear mount. In this case, the bell housing is mounted to the engine as it is required to have a starter. If necessary, the back of the block can be mounted directly.
The "dashboard" is quite confusing at first as the stand is set up to run 6 volts positive ground as well as 12 volt negative ground by changing the battery and flipping a switch. There is a Master Power Switch and also a "6/12 volt" Selector switch. Above that is a switch that allows me to use a ballast resistor in the ignition circuit if desired. The stand has a standard suite of gauges consisting of a voltmeter, an oil pressure gauge, a water temperature gauge, a vacuum gauge, a Tachometer, and an O2 meter. There is also a starter button, a hand throttle, and indicator lights that tell you what voltage you are running.
For those of you who are worrying about rings not seating, I intend to use this mainly to test used engines. As I stated in an earlier thread, I have already had a couple of flatheads on it, as well as my spare early hemi and a '51 Olds Rocket. Oh yeah, that red box in the last picture is an old engine test box I also got at a garage sale. It is there because it has a couple of functions that are missing (a dwell meter for one), and because I have no where else to put it.
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