My Distributor Cam Screw is Stuck

JKY said:
Ruth, probably doesn't need to be timed. My caution is that if you have something that you can't fix easily (and you should be able to) better fix it in the shop because it'll break on the road. Everyone has their own way, that's mine.
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your way is a very sensible way in my opinion. Fix em in the garage instead of beside the road in a rain storm.
 
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bob from red oak said:
i agree with others. Take out the distributer and put it in a vice. Put some heat on the screw. If that does not get it take the distributer to a shop with some older mechanic that has worked on A's and pay him 10 bucks to remove the screw.
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Yes, sometimes money not spent is not money saved. Good advice on your part!
 
It appears that the cam screw is stuck. I bet that's not your problem, It sounds more like your steering column rotated some. if you loosen the clamp on the steering box and the clamp inside the car you can rotate the column some to get your spark control quadrant where it needs to be..
 
Success! While working on the distributor I saw evidence of what looked like red thread locker on several other fasteners. So I suspect that someone used red thread locker on the cam screw. As you know the red stuff is meant to be permanent. Supposedly it can be loosened by heating above 500 F, but I was afraid that applying that kind of heat could do other damage. So I decided to sacrifice the upper shaft. I pulled out the distributor, removed the sleeve, and pulled out the upper shaft with the stuck cam screw. Then I clamped the shaft in the drill press and drilled the top of the cam screw with progressively larger bits until the head separated from the screw shank. With the screw head gone, I was able to pull the aluminum magnet sleeve off undamaged. In the morning I will order a new upper shaft.

This has been a tremendous learning experience for me. Many thanks to everyone here who helped me get through this.

Brian
 
This is what you say your problem is: "I need to adjust the timing so spark lever all the way up gives 0 degrees advance like it is supposed to."

Jack Shaft gave you the solution: "if you loosen the clamp on the steering box and the clamp inside the car you can rotate the column some to get your spark control quadrant where it needs to be."

Rotate the column clockwise until the lever on the distributor reaches the end of the slot
in the distributor while the quadrant is in the full up position. Tighten the column in place.

Follow the instructions for setting the timing using the timing pin. The rotor should be at the point of just leaving number one cylinder contact. Counter clockwise rotation.
 
Regarding rotating the steering column, that does not appear to be an option with my early (7-tooth) steering box. I do not see a clamp on the steering box. If I am missing something, please let me know.
 
All have given you good methods to fix the problem.
I would pull the distributor, remove the pinned lower sleeve the remove the shaft with the cam on it. Replace the shaft and cam for $25.00 or so, retime it and take a ride.

Now with the shaft in a vise try the methods given above plus take a punch and hammer and tap on an edge the screw. Heat, solvent, and square shafted screw drivers have always worked for me. With it out of the distributor you can also try turning the cam!!

Good luck
 
Your right, the seven tooth is a solid welded unit, can't rotate it. When you get your parts follow the instructions for setting the points and you'll be good to go. I thought you had a two tooth steering box.

Enjoy the car!
 
Take the distributor out remove the lower sleeve and the shaft, buy a new cam and shaft for $25 or so. Replace it and drive your A

Work on the shaft/cam using all the ideas others have sent you
Good luck and enjoy the ride.
DRC
 
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