My COIL EXPLODED

Went back through some old posts. Bubba recommended the
Bosch blue coil with 3.5 ohms resistance. No resistor.
 
flatjack9 said:
Went back through some old posts. Bubba recommended the
Bosch blue coil with 3.5 ohms resistance. No resistor.
Click to expand...

I respect Bubba's knowledge but, there seems to be a direct conflict with what Pertronix recommends.

The problem is that Pertronix says to use their Flamethrower 1.5 OHM
primary resistance coil with their Pertronix I Ignitor coil. They also say that this coil should be used without a ballast resistor when using their Pertronix I set up.

The vehicle is not using points. It has been converted to Pertronix electronic
set up.
 
19Fordy said:
I respect Bubba's knowledge but, there seems to be a direct conflict with what Pertronix recommends.

The problem is that Pertronix says to use their Flamethrower 1.5 OHM
primary resistance coil with their Pertronix I Ignitor coil. They also say that this coil should be used without a ballast resistor when using their Pertronix I set up.

The vehicle is not using points. It has been converted to Pertronix electronic
set up.
Click to expand...

I would believe Bubba before Pertronics and your coil is the proof.
 
19Fordy said:
Thanks for the answers. I know Tubman is a points only guy.
The distributor is a Mallory dual point with mechanical advance so I could go back to points.
Who makes good high quality points?
Click to expand...


As tub man stated you probably dont want to hear my answer so i will make it short . The perronixs coils have a problem . resistance isnt correct and often wrong coil ( low resistanceZ) is sold to customer then key is left on cil heats up with high amps ..........:eek::eek::confused::confused:
 
19Fordy said:
Thanks for the answers. I know Tubman is a points only guy.

The distributor is a Mallory dual point with mechanical advance so I could go back to points.

Who makes good high quality points?
Click to expand...

There are two possible sources. The first is original Mallory points. I have found them on eBay for $20 to $25 new. You usually only have to replace the trailing points pair, as they are the ones that usually transfer material. Check the points before replacing them.

Secondly, NAPA has Echlin points that are a direct replacement for the original Mallory points. For example, Echlin CS754 points from NAPA are a functional replacement for the Mallory 24875 points. I have found other equivalences, but don't have them handy. if you can get the numbers off the original points, I may be able to match them up.

I have never had a problem with Echlin points.
 
tubman: Thank you. If I can't get my engine to run with my new Pertronix coil and kit I will revert back to using my Mallory mechanical advance dual point distributor. Buying Pertronix kits and coils is getting expensive.
Will keep Fordbarners posted.
 
If you look at the way a Pertronics module is connected to the ignition coil, the power goes through the module first. They may be dropping some amps through the module but I don't like that idea much since it would make heat in the module. It is a weird system. All I can say is that if the coils don't have decent reliability then I wouldn't question the coil as much as the system as a whole. If it will work with another coil with reliability then use that coil instead of the flamethrower.
 
Brian said:
The above theory is correct...however, I ran my 35 V8 for years on 6 volt, using some sort of unmarked coil brought in from America. It has a black body and a gold sort of coloured top. Years later, when I converted that vehicle to 12 jolts, I kept the same coil, same configuration, no ballast resister [just as I used it with 6 volt], and it has run flawlessly like that for years.
Some years ago I imported a 1951 8N tractor. It too was 6 volt with the same sort of coil [black body/ gold top] When the 6 volt battery expired, I replaced it with a 12 volt battery, again leaving the coil unchanged. It too has proven trouble free.
Now, I don't know the coil resistance, however, I understand these are 6 volt coils. They run perfectly fine on 6 or 12 volts.
Click to expand...


Curious, that. My '40 Merc has helmet style distributor like a stock '35, and as ROTORWRENCH mentioned, I measured 5 of those coils recently and found they have about .6 to .8 ohms resistance Two were Ford, the others aftermarket. My .8 ohm ballast is located up under the dash and if you went to 12 volts without changing the wiring, that ballast is still in the circuit.

So, you would be at ~1.5 ohms if you were using a helmet, but it sounds like you aren't. If you are using a 1.5 ohm can type coil, the total resistance is about 2.3 ohms with that hidden ballast. You got lucky!

Those helmet coils often get overheated and fail. One of the bad ones I had leaked liquid pitch... Didn't blow up tho! :)

What ignition system does your 8N use?
 
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Tubman was too nice and didnt want to say ????
The pertronixs coil is a piece of off shore chinese **** ! They buy them 1-2000 at at time and the failure rate is approx 35%.!!!
IF you get a good one you are in the 65 %.
Their electronic ignition will work very well (If the defective coil didnt damage it )
Use the bosch blue # 00012 its 3-4 ohms and i have never seen a defective one ..................:eek::eek::eek:
 
a coil only puts out what is needed to jump the gap,you could have a 100000 volt coil and it wouldnt matter.there are lots of variables on coil out put.probably just a junk coil unless you left the ignition on with the points closed.
 
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