My 1941 Ford isn't running right

Trailerparkhardware

Trailerparkhardware

Member
Hello,
I am having trouble with my 1941 Ford Sedan. It is not running as it should. I have been working on it for a while but I have not been able to get it right. Here is where I am. It is a 1941 Ford Sedan it has a 21 stud flathead V8 in it which I believe is a 1938. I have done a 12 volt conversion on the car, rebuilt the carburetor, and installed an electric fuel pump. It has new plugs and wires. and I have done an external coil conversion. It also has new water pumps. The problem I am having is that when you step on the gas and hold it wide open it only revs up to about 3500- 4000rpm and then starts to sputter and the RPM don't climb from there. I hear popping from the exhaust but I am not getting any back fires out of the carb. The car starts up right away and idles smooth with the choke on. I have noticed that even after the car is warmed up if I open the choke more than half way it will stall. I can turn the idle screw in and increase the idle speed and keep it running but still if I hold the throttle open it will climb to 4000prm and then start sputtering and not climb any higher. I have checked a few things and done a little to rule out some possible causes. I check the compression on all cylinders and found the following:

Cylinder 1: 90psi
Cylinder 2: 95psi
Cylinder 3: 95psi
Cylinder 4: 98psi
Cylinder 5: 100psi
Cylinder 6: 100psi
Cylinder 7: 100psi
Cylinder 8: 100psi

I pulled and checked all the plugs and they are all black, not wet but black. I have only idled this engine and never driven it as I still have the front sheet metal off that car. I have disconnected the exhaust from the manifolds to rule out a clogged exhaust system. The fuel pressure going into the single 94 carburetor is 2psi. I have rechecked the wiring and plug wires and believe them all to be in good shape. The points seem to be properly adjusted. I don't know what is holding this engine back. I am not sure how to do timing on this type of engine since there are not timing marks. I will continue to search past threads for answers on that. However if you have any suggestions on what might be causing my engine trouble I would love to hear from you.
Thank you for your time.
Tom
 
if you have a vacume gauge hook up and take some readings [say idle /800/1000 and 1200 rpm] these will tell you a lot about whats going on have seen a chart on here that explanes the readings then post on here someone will know
 
Also check that the weights in the distributor advance mechanism are operating properly and not stuck.
 
One other comment

In my opinion this has distributor issue written all over it. Have you even had it apart?
Do yourself a favor pull the distributor tear it apart maybe by a spare first but get to know this distributor well you will not regret it.
Always always be super careful with mounting the distributor on the engine it has an offset slot on the cam and if that is not aliened the second you go to turn over the engine the distributor casting is cracked.
 
Timing happens in the distributor on the front mounted Ford/Mallory type distributors. The procedure for adjustments is in the Ford maintenance publications. Make sure the vacuum system for the vacuum brake is not leaking. Also make sure the vacuum brake is functioning properly.

Make sure the engine responds to idle mixture adjustments and be aware that the Ford/Holley type carbs have a power valve that can leak if its not set up properly or the diaphragm fails. This kind of stuff can cause you grief until you understand how it all works and what problems can arise during operation.
 
Rotorwrench & Veeder both have great suggestions. Where it me I would do as rotor wrench ha said and get you an extra distributor, call Mike at Third Gen of if you have an extra send it to Mike and have him go through it, set it up for you and that portion of your puzzle is solved. While you are waiting on that to arrive, inspect the vacuum line/lines and make sure all are in good working order!! When you get the replacement distributor THEN send Mike your original and have him do that one, then you have a GOOD spare if you need to keep in your trunk for touring in your car!! Good luck and keep us posted on your progress
 
You don’t say if you have the original helmet type distributor or crab with the remote coil. I had an issue with my ‘41 this spring, sent my helmet and a spare crab to Charlie NY for a rebuild. The helmet type had several issues but Charlie addressed them all, car now runs like a champ. The picture is my setup before the rebuild.
 

Attachments

  • A9193636-A3DB-4B95-AD0F-57C58DC2B9DA.jpg
    A9193636-A3DB-4B95-AD0F-57C58DC2B9DA.jpg
    45.7 KB · Views: 27
Skip Haney is another great source for rebuildiding dists, coils, waterpumps .
Skip Haney
29436 Taralane Drive
Punta Gorea, FL 33982
 
Im going out on a limb here , but are you flooring it with no load on it ? Its not something Id suggest. Any chance the fuel lines are restricting your flow , or how about a blocked exhaust , any rattles or strange noises fron the muffler ? Is your gas cap proper and vented ?
Just some other suggestions but the timing / electrical issure would also be my first look .
 
That dynamic duo; the coil and condenser. Have you checked the coil with an ohmmeter to see if it is in the ball park (primary and secondary windings). Do you have a ballast resistor? Does it match the ohms rating of the primary side of the coil? Condensers are cheap (except for mine:rolleyes:); get a couple from NAPA if there's one close; you might get an Echlin (but probably a Standard brand). Anyway, try a couple and see if it helps.
 
all good responses but without any further information at this stage a vacume reading will give a lot of insite as to whats going on
 
I had the same problem once, turned out the spring tension of the points was just old and tired. Causing them to float at high rpms. New points fixed the problem.
 
Hi guys,
I had almost the same issue on my 37 tudor. It was idling but not climbing in turns. changed the condenser and all was OK. i opened it to see and you can see the pictures...
on chinese condensers the contact is made by pushing the aluminium paper in the box and you can see the result...
An other thing to check is the fuel line...

Good luck!
 

Attachments

  • 20210302_185545.jpg
    20210302_185545.jpg
    16.3 KB · Views: 34
  • 20210302_185538.jpg
    20210302_185538.jpg
    19.5 KB · Views: 34
Thank you for all the good information. I have been working through all your great suggestions and have made some progress. I went through and checked my entire fuel system to make sure all was good. Pulled the carb, and checked to see that I had rebuilt it properly. Checked the power valve and all was right. Then I moved on to the distributor. I found a great video on YouTube showing how to tear it down and assemble it. I took it completely apart cleaned it and found two major issues. First someone at sometime had taken this distributor apart. I found the lock ring that holds the breaker plate in was not installed correctly and would not allow any adjustment. The breaker plate was locked in place and would not turn at all. I also found that even though the points looked clean and new that one of the points arm had worn down where it comes in contact with the distributor drive shaft and would not open enough to give proper spark. I decided at this point to replace the distributor with and after marked pointless version from Speedway. I was able to get it installed over the weekend and what a difference. I now has great throttle response. It idles better and is much smoother. I am currently working on getting the front clip painted and reinstalled and looking forward to driving it around the block. I will keep you informed on the progress. Thank you for all your help and advise.
Thomas
photo
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top