Must replace timing gear

Protect the radiator with a piece of thin plywood or cardboard when working on the front of the engine. I have one already cut to size and waiting in the corner of the shop for use anytime I am tinkering on the front of the engine.
 
Hallo und guten Abend,


the camshaft wheel is in it, the steering angles are correct.

It was quite difficult to use the front cover screws and the five of the oil pan, because the holes were not in line.

Unfortunately, I can not do a motor test run, because the complete steering is still developed.



Thank you all for the good helpin' advice!
 
There are two different sealing rings for the pulley. Teflon worm and "modern" like a soft shaft seal simmering.

Who has experience with the one-piece "modern" ring?
 

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Werner said:
There are two different sealing rings for the pulley. Teflon worm and "modern" like a soft shaft seal simmering.

Who has experience with the one-piece "modern" ring?
Click to expand...

Werner, you will have people supporting both of those seals based on their own experiences. I have only used the modern type seal (and had great results) while I read of others who have good results with the two piece seals. IMO, either will give good service but the two piece one is a little more difficult to fit correctly.
You are doing the right thing by asking these questions. I for one don't mind offering advice in the hope that it will help you being able to drive this car with confidence and enjoy it knowing that it is in good condition. Keep up the good work.
 
My cam gear is stripped and I am planning on replacing it with the engine in the car. I'll pull the hood and the radiator and jack up the motor, with the rear mounts lose, probably unhook the exhaust pipe, too, to fix that joint.

Anyway, I can't remember how tough it was to remove the crank gear when I had it apart ~10 years ago. Is there room to use a gear puller?

Regarding sealing, I will have the modern seal on hand, plus the rope seals. Again, I can't remember how the rope seals went in. Will I need to drop the pan and then deal with the rear seal, too? Doing that work with the engine out is different!
 
You'll need to drop the pan to get the crank gear off and clean the
broken teeth out of the pan.


Bob
 
Guten Abend Bruce.

If you choose the simmering, you have to unscrew the oil pan. You can loosen the crankshaft nut well with an impact wrench.

If you use worm seals then the cooler can also remain installed. If the lower worm is o. k. (tight), then you don't need to remain the pan, also the pulley.

I didn't need a puller to pull off the camshaft wheel away.

I wish you much success!
 
Good evening, finally my information.

The new assembled camshaft wheel made of aluminum runs beautifully without noise.

Thanks at all for helpin' hints!
 
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