Multiple to single clutch Flywheel housing

[Tom Wesenberg]

You can bolt the starter in place before the clutch housing is installed. That way you can run the starter to check for clearance. You wouldn't even have to run the starter, but could spin the helix forward by hand to check for clearance. If the pinion feels snug at all then change the end plate to the one with the eccentric locating ring.

I'd have to see your armature shaft without the drive in place to know what was done to your starter. Also with the switch removed I could tell if the starter main case was the early or later one. Some people have files down the starter pyramid to be a flat contact.

 

[moasew]

Hi Ron:

Where did you get your throwout bearing? My flywheel/pressure plate/clutch assembly is from Mike's and only has three fingers on the plate.

Wilfred

 

[moasew]

Hi Tom:

Here are photos of starter without the switch. also it seems I do have the eccentric ring you mentioned.The starter seems to turn well when attached to the flywheel so I didn't remove the drive.....yet.

It looks like I need to change the switch for a better plunger fit plus tighten the drive bolt as you mentioned.Then maybe change out the brushes,do a bench test,repaint and good to go ! Let me know if it is the early body.

Wilfred

 

[moasew]

Whoops forgot the pics Tom !

 

[Ron in Quincy]

MOASEW,

I used a standard sealed throw-out bearing. Of course I had to modify the early 28 transmission case to except the throw-out bearing sleeve.

One thing I did not mention, you have to remove the multi-disc fork and replace it with the later fork, the multi-disc fork is too narrow to work with a single plate clutch.

Also the multi-disc fork is not only pinned but there is also a keyway, by using a early single plate fork it is also made with a keyway and pin so it places the fork in the proper position on the shaft. I guess Ford found the keyway was not necessary so the later single plate forks were only held on the shaft with a pin ?

Ron

 

[moasew]

OK I finally have my Tudor ready to start after two yrs of repairing/ repainting the chassis. The starter will only spin so the bendix isn't kicking into the flywheel. Should I just replace the bendix ?

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

OK I finally have my Tudor ready to start after two yrs of repairing/ repainting the chassis. The starter will only spin so the bendix isn't kicking into the flywheel. Should I just replace the bendix ?

Are you saying the starter is spinning too slow to spin the pinion into engagement?

Or is the helix the wrong direction, and the starter spins it OUT of engagement?