Multiplate clutch conversion

freddo

Junior Member
I have a '28 running a multiplate clutch. All is OK, there is some play between teeth of the plates and flywheel splines, I am lucky enough to have spares and yes will attempt all endeavors to keep it multiplate.

But, I am planning to work on the transmission so will check serviceability of those parts around it including the clutch

As a precaution or option should I need it, I would like to to start collecting the parts required for a conversion to a single plate or modern style clutch. If I don't use them then I can pass to someone who can or keep as spares.

Main question:
Can someone please identify the parts required for me to convert multi to single plate clutch?

Additional questions:
Is the KR Wilson tool mandatory in the dis-assembly and reassembly/alignment of the multiplate clutch?
I could use a workshop press to compress the spring but the plate alignment may be a problem. Is there an alternative to the KR Wilson tool?

I have the Tom Endy article "The Multiple Disk Clutch" in How to Restore Your Model A vol8 2009, plus other snippets as found on the web. I am aware of the service bulletins as Tom identifies in his article but as yet do not have these.

The cars is RHD should that make a difference.

Thanks...
 
Firstly you would need the single plate clutch bell housing for the right hand drive, including both pedals. Pedal shafts are of different diameters. Single disc flywheel and pressure plate. Single clutch disc. New transmission input shaft. Input shaft bearing retainer. Throw-out bearing & throw-out bearing hub. Return spring for throw-out bearing. Possibly a later style transmission case, unless you have access to a machine shop for case modifications.
 
To convert it's best to just buy everything including the pedals from the flywheel to the U-joint.

I use a one foot piece of threaded rod, flat washers and nuts to take the multiplate clutch apart. I use a pair of Philips screwdrivers to align the clutch discs while I reassemble the clutch pack. Just hold the screwdriver round shafts against the teeth of the discs while you run the nut down on the threaded rod to compress the clutch pack.

Remember that one clutch disc has teeth a tiny bit wider than the other discs and this disc is placed in the rear of the pack. In other words it will be the one closest to the ****** when assembled. This disc can be identified by a small notch in one tooth of that disc.

The rear disc moves the least when the clutch pedal is pushed in, and the wider teeth help eliminate some play.

MultiplateDiscsNOS.jpg
 
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You may also need to find the correct starter as (if yours is like my multiplate) the shaft drive is smaller than the later type as is the bendix, to clear the larger flywheel.
 
Freddo:

My preference would be to leave the car with the multi-disk installation. However, if you do plan to converet it I would think you would almost have to find a doner car that is a right hand drive that is being parted out. That would probably be easier in your neck of the woods than here in the US.

Another option is to seek out replacement multi-disk parts. There is an ad posted on the MAFCA web site (www.mafca.com) for a complete Multi-disk installation, I assume for a left hand car. The seller resides in Florida and is asking $200 for it.

The document you refer to appeared in the Restorer a number of years ago and is also posted on the Orange County MAFC web site on the technical page and can be down loaded (www.ocmafc.org). I was not aware that it is in the new how-to volume.

You can get the clutch pack apart using a shop press. However you will need an alignment tool to line it back up. The K.R. Wison tool makes it easy, but you can create a tool with a little ingenuity. Henry's killer spring is not lethal, but be careful to not let it thump you in the forehead.

Tom Endy
 
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