Muffler Rattle
- Thread starter Smitty
- Start date
I had the rattle problem also. I wasn't what it was or where it was coming from. I removed the floor boards and had a friend listen as i drove the car. No rattles. Put the floor boards back and scratched my head. Next time I drove the car rattle-rattle. Decided to change form original motor mounts to floating type, thinking that would help. Romoved the muffler to get better access to the rear mount. When I picked up the muffler to re-install heard the rattle noise. Found "SIX" exhaust gland rings in the muffler. Removed the manifold and found that I was missing only one. I have not driven the car yet, but I may have found the problem Good Luck.
Brentwood Bob
Well-known member
Aries sells an oversized rear tailpipe to frame clamp with an asbestos deadener to stop this noise. The frame clamp does not hold the tail pipe tight, but allows it to float as it expands and contracts with heat. Bob
Sorry, couldn't help it.
Patrick L.
Well-known member
I didn't have a rattle, but, I didn't like the way the rear bracket fit so I cut a chunk of asbestos [welding glove] and wrapped it around the pipe then clamped it loosely..
SAJ
Well-known member
My centre perforated tube was rattling inside the support baffles because it had become detatched somehow. I don't know where the muffler came from or who made it. It was on the car when I bought it. I Drilled a 1/4 inch hole in the case, looked in with a light probe and could see the problem area. I thought the centre tube would get hotter than the casing and expand more and need to slide inside the supports, but it was welded to the one I could see, and the weld had broken.
So i sharpened a long 1/4 inch bolt, welded a 1/4 inch nut over the hole in the casing and screwed the bolt in until the point registered in one of the perforations in the centre tube. I lock-nutted the bolt against the welded-on nut. After about 1000 miles it loosened , but after tightening it has been quiet for another 10000 miles. It allows the tube to expand and slide, but still traps it in against the baffle.
It saved the price of a new muffler and cannot be seen, since it is at about 11 o-clock on the casing viewed from the front.
A pragmatic solution, not to purist's tastes. But the muffler was very sound and solid - just badly made internally. I painted the whole exhaust with phosphoric etch (Dulux Deoxidine) and then painted it with black semi gloss barbeque paint (rattle can). It still looks nice, though I touch it up now and then and wipe mud off it while up on my hoist. I use stove black on the exhaust manifold too - rubbed on every couple of months or so. A 5-minute job
The muffler has a nice Model A sound, with a bit of a "whoofle and tweet" when idling fully retarded.
I am not sure whether it should actually sound like this, but they all seem to sound different and mine sounds very "vintage" when sitting at traffic lights and echoing off other cars.
It has a 5.5 Snyder head and Stipe cam from Schwalms, and I guess this changes the sound.
Regards from SAJ in NZ
So i sharpened a long 1/4 inch bolt, welded a 1/4 inch nut over the hole in the casing and screwed the bolt in until the point registered in one of the perforations in the centre tube. I lock-nutted the bolt against the welded-on nut. After about 1000 miles it loosened , but after tightening it has been quiet for another 10000 miles. It allows the tube to expand and slide, but still traps it in against the baffle.
It saved the price of a new muffler and cannot be seen, since it is at about 11 o-clock on the casing viewed from the front.
A pragmatic solution, not to purist's tastes. But the muffler was very sound and solid - just badly made internally. I painted the whole exhaust with phosphoric etch (Dulux Deoxidine) and then painted it with black semi gloss barbeque paint (rattle can). It still looks nice, though I touch it up now and then and wipe mud off it while up on my hoist. I use stove black on the exhaust manifold too - rubbed on every couple of months or so. A 5-minute job
The muffler has a nice Model A sound, with a bit of a "whoofle and tweet" when idling fully retarded.
I am not sure whether it should actually sound like this, but they all seem to sound different and mine sounds very "vintage" when sitting at traffic lights and echoing off other cars.
It has a 5.5 Snyder head and Stipe cam from Schwalms, and I guess this changes the sound.
Regards from SAJ in NZ
john in illinois
Well-known member
I bought the Aries asbestos type lined clamp and it was worn through to the metal after a 1200 mile trip. Total waste of money IMO. I went back to the original clamp.I try to adjust it so it is just tight enough not to rattle.