Muffler heat shield??????

31 Model A

Well-known member
Who runs with one? Are they worth it, do they work? Are they all basically the same design?

Thanks

Edonis...........
 
make your own by cutting a piece of sheet metal and secure to the bottom of the floor board with hex machine screws.. done and done and about 5.00
 
make your own by cutting a piece of sheet metal and secure to the bottom of the floor board with hex machine screws.. done and done and about 5.00

I never thought about that and...I have a piece of thick sheet metal just a few feet away in my garage....great!!!! Thanks.
 
About 40 years ago I put a sheet of (gasp !) asbestos* (with a 1" gap) under my passenger side floor board. It worked exceptionally well for all those years and still does today.

* And I have not died from asbestos poisoning ! However for all of those 40 years each time I was in proximity of the asbestos , I resisted the temptation to lick it and fondle it , which may account for my having not died from its 'toxic' emitting chemicals, etc. Of course I live in California, which is in close proximity to the USA. People outside the U.S. (with the exception of California) seem to have developed an immunity to it - as well as a host of other things that are 'bad' for us.

I also have had and installed the aforementioned 'Heat Shield', and found it too work well at dissipating the heat from the muffler. $$$$ = time. The heat shield fits over the muffler and is quite a bit easier and quicker to install than is the home-made heat shield. In this case $$$$ saves both effort & time.
 
I tried a heat shield on the muffler, but the one I got wouldn't allow the muffler to be reinstalled. It was too close at the top. I'm going to try Mark's suggstion of sheet metal. Right now I've got a piece of 1/4" sheet house insulation under my floor mat; it helps, but it's still too warm for these hot summer days.
 
I had one for a while - a waste of time. It wasn't long before it cracked and made an awful rattle under there. I like the idea of screwing it to the floor board. Might give that a try with spacers between the shield and floor.
A rethink on screwing the heat shield to the floor - won't work because the arm on the brake pedal is there and only about 1/4" from the floor. Maybe wrapping the pipe and front of the muffler with Kevlar is a better option.
 
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I installed a "Kool-Feet" heat shield about a month ago and couldn't be happier!!

Well worth the $$. Had it installed in about 20 minutes.
 
I installed a piece of sheet metal on the frame secured with existing body bolts and involving a few slight bends. It has worked very well. Another fellow made the design and on a long trip two summers ago we checked the temperature of his floorboard (105) and mine w/o the shield (155) with a HF infrared temperature gun. Sold me on the shield!!! Have found quite a few uses for the HF temperature gun including checking radiator temps, brake drum temps, etc.--very useful tool!:D
 
FWIW: From years of experience:

Prior to fabricating a muffler shield to reduce Model A floor board heat ...... if one were to ever experience the difference between standing under a sheet metal roof at noon provided in galvanized steel and standing under another sheet metal roof in aluminum .... the next muffler shield for "experienced" people would be fabricated with aluminum as opposed to steel.

Hot mufflers are producing radiant energy similar to the sun's energy which can easily penetrate wood floor boards and steel ....... also penetrate asphalt shingle roofs, slate roofs, clay tile roofs, and bituminous membrane roofs.

If one researches "radiant barrier insulation" one finds that aluminum provides about 97% reflection of radiant heat, (radiant energy), and provides low-E, i.e., 97% radiant energy emissions when aluminum is not facing the heat source, but is adjacent to at least a 3/4" air space.

Aluminum only reflects 97% of the radiant energy if the aluminum has at least a 3/4" air space on one (1) side of the aluminum. If aluminum is sandwiched between (2) layers of adjacent carpet, or wood, or floor mats, with no air space on one or both sides, reflection of radiant energy is 0%.

Aluminum faced sound deadening material covered with floor mats or similar material, with no air space adjacent to the aluminum facing reflects 0% of radiant energy.
 
Save some money and add aluminum sheet stock to the bottom of the floor board. The extra hole in the floor board is for replenishing the transmission oil.
 

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FWIW: One Homemade Enhanced Heat Shield:

I cleaned all of the 80+ year old road grim and oil from the bottoms of my oil soaked wood floor boards with POR 15 Marine Clean, and then painted the bottoms of my floor boards with POR 15.

Next adhesively applied a single layer of "aluminum" faced duct tape to the horizontal "bottom" of the floor board, including the approximately 45 degree board facing the engine ........... thus reflecting 97% of radiant energy from the muffler, the vertical exhaust at manifold, the heat from the engine compartment, and the radiant heat from the hot asphalt or concrete road surface below.

Placed carpet padding over floor boards, under carpet floor mat for 1930 Town Sedan.

Adhesively applied aluminum faced sound deadening to in-side of fire wall, provide 3/4" required air space, then installed synthetic, plastic sound deadening insulated firewall over air space to reflect 97% of radiant energy from engine compartment, plus hot air exiting the warmer radiator.

For a lovely Model A passenger wife or girlfriend, works similar to Hallmark Christmas Cards ..... If You Care Enough to Send the Very Best?
 
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It also helps to put spacers between the sheet metal and your floor boards. A 5x7 sheet metal with spacers in back of the down pipe from the manifold is very effective.
 
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