Motor won't run

From the pics you don't have the fuel adj (GAV) rod in place to adj the GAV. Have you tried opening it manually?? Disc the fuel line and look for a GOOD solid fuel mflow.
Paul in CT
 
When my A would not start I found that there was a ground in the distributor.
A slight adjustment and it was OK
 
After work I went to a buddy of mine who has a 31 that we just completed a 12v conversation on. His car to has not ran in 30+ years. We completed the wiring and was able to start it for the first time. That being said I know I'm doing the timing right. My new concern is that his motor turns over considerably slower than mine. With my experience this is telling me that my compression is lower then his and may possibly be my problem. If I have a bad head gasket I may be leaking between cylinders causing the back firing through the intake.

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J Franklin said:
What is your compression read? Maybe you have sticky valves or broken springs.
Click to expand...

Good call!
Sticky valves or broken springs would cause spitting and back fire would it not?

Lower compression also as does Post 24 and leak between two cylinders !
 
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I would take a fresh look at everything. Timing looks good per pics, check compression in each cylinder with a compression tester, just takes a few minutes and gives you a ton of info. Lift the spark plug wires a 1/4 inch and crank it to check for nice hot spark, put your hand over air intake and crank to see if gas is there. If all this tests out, it should run.
 
I made a simple Press On adapter for a 0 to 100 PSI gauge and tested all four cylinders. Each cylinder has between 25 and 35 PSI
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Wow, thats not much. Time to see if its valves or ?? If it was headgasket should only be a couple cylinders. Pull the head and look it over. Lapping the valves isn't too big of a job. Be careful if the head is stuck, you can wreck stuff by driving in screwdrivers and prying.
 
The timing gear could be off a tooth or two. You should see more compression than what you have. Did you test with some oil in the cylinders for sealing?
 
I did not pour any oil in at that time. I did pour oil in prior to trying to rotate the engine over for the first time.

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Prior to my purchase of the car maybe 30-40-50 years. I think my goal to try and get it running as a survivor may be lost.
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Pull the manifolds and valve chamber cover and "squirt" the valve guides liberally with PB blaster or equivalent and hand crank till you get the valves freed up. JMO
Paul in CT
 
I have been in the valve cover when I changed out the oil pump drive gear all of the valves move great and there was no sticking valves. When trying to start the motor the oil fill spout cap pops open from the crank case pressure. I believe that I may have bad rings. Or cylinder walls are worn out.
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I think you need to get a proper compression gauge so it will hold the pressure
for a few revolutions.


Bob
 
mightynova63 said:
I have a 1928 sport coupe that I'm trying to get running. I 99.9% sure on the timing 99.9% on the carb I rebuild and I have good compression. I replaced the oil pump drive gear that was extremely worn, installed an updated pionts system and rebuilt the carb. The motor is spitting and sputtering but won't kick over. The head is getting warm and the plugs are kinda dry. It has plenty of turning power with the 12v upgrade. Right now I'm leaning that the carb is not feeding the right fuel flow or the coil is not powerful enough. Any help will be great.

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Click to expand...

You did a lot of changes to this car! The one that stands out is ignition changes. The car is spitting back. head is warm, which to me converts to the engine is really out of time. Get # 1 piston at the top on compression stroke. There are plenty of posts on how to accomplish. Then assure your distributor is set up to fire on #1 and that the distributor wires (brass flat wires) are going to the right spark plugs. Once that is complete and you are sure you have the engine timed right, then do the starting thing again. Hope this helps
 
Bob C is right. 35 with the reading going back to "0"each time is not a compression reading as such. A compression tester has a chack valve so the second and third and fourth hits accumulate for the final reading. Then you release the reading and go on to the next hole. Tool shouldn't cost more than $30 $45. Write down the readings and then do it again wet ( 2-3 squirts motor oil).
 
Time to remove the head and take a look at the gasket and rings...remove the nuts and soak the head bolts with pb blaster or Marvel Mystery Oil for a couple of days and then remove the head...if the problem is mechanical, you'll learn quite a bit by taking a look. Make sure your pan is clean and the little pipes that go from the value area to the mains seem to be free of junk. Take the timing gear cover off and take a look, turn the engine over with the crank and then you should know if you have a mechanical problem. If the timing is good, take the carburetor apart and clean it out...Make sure all you cable connections are clean and tight. Take the dash panel off and make sure the nuts on the amp meter and ignition switch are clean and tight. Ernie
 
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