Motor refreshening?

rexrogers

rexrogers

Member
Motor refreshening? My 28 phaeton is due for a complete engine overhaul the motor that was in the car is pulled out and i am waiting until i can round up the money to build a proper touring motor for the car.
In the meantime i purchased a running 28 chassis and using the motor from that car to keep me on the road for the next year or two. The chassis i picked up as a donor has a lot of good useable parts, i think i am going to use the rear axle and few other pieces for my car as well.
My grand master plan is to have the phaeton built as a nice touring 28, and then with the leftover parts build a speedster.

Back to my question donor motor has new babbitt and adjustable lifters and it looks like the crank and rods were balanced. the block was sleeved and it has a few cracks repaired.
The area that was repaired and pinned is actually higher than the rest of the deck, it looks like the whole area has moved up after the repair work was done. You can see the marks on the block and the pins from the machining, but now that same area is slightly raised.
My question is what to do with it now? its not in the sealing surface of the head, and i had fairly good compression on the motor before. the head gasket was leaking was the main reason for pulling the head. A high compression police head is going back on the car.
My other question is on the flywheel the more i read the more confused i get, this motor has a lightened flywheel and the one that was on the phaeton wasn't. Which is the best option for a non counter balanced car?

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I have 2 other blocks that look better, and those will be sent out for the touring motor build. This motor the plan is to run it as is for the time being. Do I try to do something with the repaired area, or leave it alone?

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Those repaired cracks are now as strong or stronger than original. I wouldn't worry a bit about them. If that motor is as good as it looks, you will have the one you pulled under the bench for a long time.
 
the guy that installed the pins for the crack has done them before. They are done correct. You should get many miles out of the repair.
 
I put the head on this morning and test fit the heater manifold. A few more parts arrived today from Berts Model A. Time to finish the carb rebuild and a few other items then i can get the motor in the car.
I used the Best gasket new head studs and spray cooper kote on the gasket.
Which gasket is better for the intake and exhaust manifold, the cooper one or the fiber one?

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How good are those manifold heaters? I've never seen one and I suspect they are banned here, like they are in NZ.
 
George Miller said:
copper is the best. In my MHO
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Thanks I keep going back and forth i ordered both styles, same with the head gaskets. Sometimes the more you read and search the harder the decision is.
The mounting flange is in great shape I draw filed across the face to true everything up and it didn't take much to get the surface cleaned up.

On the heater i don't know how well they work my car didn't have one before but it had a hole in the firewall so i figured i would try it out and see.
 
Prudent use of modern sealants allow the use of fiber gaskets,the latest permatex offerings can augment the properties of the fiber to exceed copper

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That is the slickest crack repair I've ever seen! I've got some questions if you don't mind. It looks like the block is bored and sleeved, what is your current bore size? How deep into the block are the pins/plugs ? What material are the plugs/pins? Iron? Steel? Are they pressed in? How much of a press fit , .0005, 001? Any bonding agents?
Terry
 
The pistons are .90 over. I don't know anything about the repairs I purchased this motor out of a running car.
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I got the oil pan back on and everything sealed up and I should be ready to put the motor back in the car as soon as time allows.
 
Terry said:
That is the slickest crack repair I've ever seen! I've got some questions if you don't mind. It looks like the block is bored and sleeved, what is your current bore size? How deep into the block are the pins/plugs ? What material are the plugs/pins? Iron? Steel? Are they pressed in? How much of a press fit , .0005, 001? Any bonding agents?
Terry
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The pins should go through the deck. They made pins two ways. The ones I have always used are tapered threaded cast. They also make ones with out threads that press in. not sure what kind of material. What ever you use they need to over lapp and go through the deck. They need to go past the valve seat and cylinder wall. Then you use a valve seat and cylinder sleeve to lock it all together.
 
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