Motor Oil Recommendation

"It's true this question gets asked a lot but don't forget, some people may be new to this site or not spend much time on it and may not be familiar with the endless arguments about oil, white walls, brass works radiators, proper head gasket torquing, babbitt vs. inserts (babbitt is better) etc. So be patient with new folks and be glad they care enough to ask the question."

So we should tell Ryan to disable the search function????And save the world from bandwidth abuse?

Allan has given a fine discourse, indeed. But I stopped wasting my typing fingers like this since no one pays any attention anyway. I finally figured out that most posters already have a pre-set notion of how they should do something, right or wrong, and are just looking for confirmation of their method. So I have shortened my answers and I still get flamed for my methods; yet I have been a mechanic for 60 yrs
 
Alan,
You are exactly correct about the viscosity of the oil. Most don't understand what multi weight means. What it means is that 10-40W will work as a 10W oil through a 40W oil regardless of the heat or conditions the engine endures.

Basically any good quality oil will be fine. Hyperlube makes a zinc additive if you feel the need to use it. Certainly won' hurt.
 
Oil what a curly subject. I see it crops up often on the forurm. Our New Zealand Vintage Car club magazine "Beaded Wheels" had a really good articule on oil written by one Andrew McClintock (a member of the Institute of Automotive Mechanical Engineers) issue 300 October/November 2009. He talks a lot about the additives and the service specifications and says....... A non or low detergent oil stays clean looking, as soot and carbon sink to the bottom of the sump, whereas a detergent oil keeps these particles in suspension and they are filtered out by the oil filter if they are large enough to cause any harm, or drained out at the next oil change. If you are putting a detergent oil in a motor without a filter that may have been using non-detergent oil, you must remove the sump and clean it out. His answer to what type of oil to use is......20/50 SF,SH or SG. It may have CD,CJ or CI service specification as well. This means it can also be used in a light diesel vehicle. All of the above are suitable for veteran, vintage and pre war vehicles. For post war vehicles use the viscosity and service specification recomended by the manufacturer. As regards ZDDP he sums up by saying........I will continue to use 20/50 SG/CD in my Model T, Model A, 1956 Chev, 1964 Jaguar as well as my wife's 1926 Studebaker with or without ZDDP until I see positive proof of a problem or the need for an additive.
I used this grade of oil in my model a pick up with no problems at all. Hope this is of help. Happy motoring.
 
Stay away from Wesson oil, and Olive oil.
Pretty much anything you buy in a parts store will work just fine. Buy your favorite color bottle. If you cant make up your mind, get a couple or three different ones and mix them up.
The mainmost things are to keep a check on it and maintain it at the correct level and change it before it changes to molasses.
I cant recall reading the thread " I blew up my Model A because I used the wrong oil"
Good Luck.:)
 
Does anyone on the 'barn' know of any engine, not just an 'A' engine, that has experienced cam or lifter damage/failure attributed to the oil used? I'm not looking for an opinion, but a conclusion based on an engine failure analysis that would include the usual hardness checks, grain structure analysis, valve spring testing, lifter and cam fits in their respective bores, and component destructive testing if required. The analysis would also include comprehensive testing of the engines oil.
 
I usually avoid reading these topics because of the varying views of the respondents, but I learned something new this time. Thanks to everyone for their comments!
 
Jim Johnston said:
Does anyone on the 'barn' know of any engine, not just an 'A' engine, that has experienced cam or lifter damage/failure attributed to the oil used? I'm not looking for an opinion, but a conclusion based on an engine failure analysis that would include the usual hardness checks, grain structure analysis, valve spring testing, lifter and cam fits in their respective bores, and component destructive testing if required. The analysis would also include comprehensive testing of the engines oil.
Click to expand...

Jim, recall back in the '80's when so many GM engine cams were going bad? My Chevy mechanic friends told me that at first, GM blamed Quaker State oil for the problem but then later it was discovered that they had a batch of cheapo cams that weren't heat treated right or were made of poor material. Regardless, even today when I see a container of Quaker State oil I remember all of that!! prejudiced still against the stuff even though it was found to not be the oil.

Old ways die hard. And thanks for the viscosity info all, will grab up some jugs of 5W-30 this weekend!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top