Motor Oil Recommendation

Joe/Ct

Joe/Ct

Senior Member
I have done a search on this subject, read all the posts, but have just come away confused. So I will ask one more time.

I have a '28 roadster that the engine re-builder recommends I use HD 30. There has been lot of discussion here about using a motor oil with zinc. Is zinc an advantage for the Model A engine? If so, can someone recommend a brand that has that included, or is an additive OK?
 
well im going to say this very carefully as this is a very touchy subject with everyone.

Zinc has been slowly taken out of engine oil as modern engines with roller lifters dont need it. Older engines with flat tappets or lifters need the zinc as a cushion between the cam lobe and tappet surface, otherwise which ever is softer usually wears down (unfortunately in some engines the camshaft is which = $$$). In my other "modern" 34 year old car with flat tappets i dump a bottle of STP oil treatment in the crankcase - main ingredient is ZDDP (zinc for short) so then i use regular castrol GTX high mileage with it. Bottle of STP is like $3 and does its job.

In model A engines you gotta remember ANY oil nowadays is 10X better than what they had 80 years ago. I prefer to use multi weight like a modern car - i used castrol GTX 10W-40 in my model A engine. Granted i dont have it in a frame yet and haven't ran it much on the stand it didnt make any funky noises or anything. FYI the varying weight oils the lower number is cold (in 10w-40 instance the 10w) means it behaves like a 10W oil when cold - meaning it flows easier when its cold when your engine is creating the most wear - its good its thinner so it can get to all the passages quicker to provide the needed lubrication. The 40w part is when the engine is hot and up to temperature - it behaves like a 40 w oil and gets really clingy and thick - which is what you want when its hot.

Detergent VS non detergent - detergent oil means its got "stuff" in the oil to capture and suspend the sludge created by blowby in the oil so it doesnt create sludge. Non detergent oil just lets all the crud accumulate in the bottom of the pan as its heavier and eventually make sludge(also where your oil pump intake screen is...)

Now what i said is my view and what I do. Many others will disagree or will stick to what henry used because thats what he used and modern oil is garbage.

NOW Is that HD30 he recommends is that for the break-in period or what he recommends forever? Does he have some kind of warranty that would be void if you DONT use it?
 
There should be no reason for confusion. ANY motor oil designed for vehicles will work fine. Any specific brand is just a personal choice.
 
I think zinc was removed as it contaminates catalytic convertors.
I don't know if zinc was in oil in 1930, I doubt it. The problem as I understand came about with hi-performace engines. If you have valve springs that take 80-100 pounds to open a valve zinc is a good idea.
I doubt it is necessary in an A. This is my understanding, could be wrong.
 
use any oil that does not have the shield (round circle) on the front of the container that says for gasoline engines, that oil is for roller tappet cams and lifters, use what the engine builder says, that's a no brainer, and definitely use detergent oil, detergent oil WILL NOT HARM BABBET, another old wifes tale that needs to be put to bed forever
 
WestCoast said:
use any oil that does not have the shield (round circle) on the front of the container that says for gasoline engines, that oil is for roller tappet cams and lifters, use what the engine builder says, that's a no brainer, and definitely use detergent oil, detergent oil WILL NOT HARM BABBET, another old wifes tale that needs to be put to bed forever
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It's MOSTLY a bunch of OLD MEN that need to be put to BED, FOREVER:D They go around spreading all kinds of "WISDOM" sayings, to try to sound sound "intelligent":confused:
Chief always said, "Believe 90% of what you SEE & 10% of what you hear"! My Dear nieve Mamma, believed ANYTHING that was in print,----- "Well, they wouldn't print it, if it wasn't TRUE"!!
Bill W.
 
I agree with Willie that zinc was removed because it plugged the catalytic convertor or the oxygen sensor. I don't recall which, or maybe both, but I believe it was the cat.

Even though the Model A might be fine without the zinc, I think it would help the cam and lifters to last longer. In the 70's when I worked at the GM dealership, I put in a can of GM cam lube any time I installed a cam and lifters. Check the GM dealerships to see if they still have it, or maybe the auto parts stores have it. I'll add what I can to help my engine have the least wear.
 
Use Rotella 10/30 or 10/40. It has zinc, not too expensive, will carry all the dirt and sludge builders out when you change it.The Mod. A engine is not a sophisticated piece of machinery! It doesn't require sophisticated lubricants. And remember, the worst oils of today are better than the best oils of 1930.
Terry
 
If you want 30W with Zinc & detergent use Brad Penn or Valvoline racing oil. Brad Penn also makes a 30W racing engine break in grade as well.
 
If you really want to know check in to the site next week as it seems this question is asked over and over and over again !
Wayne
 
I would suggest you use a break-in oil for the first 100 or 200 miles to allow the rings to set properly. Royal Purple makes an excellent oil specifically for that purpose. Change it after 100 miles and then after the next 100 miles again. Thereafter switch to whatever oil makes you happy. If money is no object, I'd recommend 0W-30, otherwise any 5W-30 is as good as it gets. Diesel oil is certainly a good choice. Single grade oil is the poorest choice and any engine rebuilder who recommends it is someone who wouldn't get an engine from me.
 
being a cheap skate, and having had good luck with Phillips TropArtic and Motorcraft oils (all blended at the same refinery, old Kendall GT-1 from what I Googled, is why Motorcraft oil bottles are red in color) got one question.

When you buy oil in a 5 qt. jug it is half the cost of buying 5 quart bottles. Most 5 qt. jugs at Walmart are 5W20 or 5W30 in the brands I like. $12.00 a pop. A little over two bucks a quart vs. $4.77/qt. in singles.

My question is, is 5W too light for the Model A? What say you, oh Ford gurus????
 
It's true this question gets asked a lot but don't forget, some people may be new to this site or not spend much time on it and may not be familiar with the endless arguments about oil, white walls, brass works radiators, proper head gasket torquing, babbitt vs. inserts (babbitt is better) etc. So be patient with new folks and be glad they care enough to ask the question.
 
BlueSunoco said:
jugs at Walmart are 5W20 or 5W30

My question is, is 5W too light for the Model A? What say you, oh Ford gurus????
Click to expand...

It's NOT 5W.

The 20 part is too light really, but the 5W-30 is as thick as straight SAE 30 when hot (oil THINS when it gets hot). As they cool, the 5W-30 thickens a LOT less than the SAE30 will. Really thick oil is bad for an engine - it doesn't flow well enough.

Most people don't understand the numbers, though it is all explained here:
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles

A Quote from the article:
"I will compare the same weigh or grade of oils showing that the operating viscosities are the same whereas the startup viscosities vary:

Mineral oil:

Oil type...Thickness at 75 F... at 212 F...at 302 F

Straight 30..........250....................10..........3
10W-30...............100....................10........ ..3
0W-30..........There are none in this range......

Synthetic oil:

Oil type...Thickness at 75 F... at 212 F...at 302 F

Straight 30...........100...................10...........3
10W-30.................75...................10........ ...3
0W-30...................40...................10...... .....3"

So SAE 30 (as originally recommended by Ford) runs a cSt viscosity vating of "10" at operating temps - that's the viscosity you want ALL the time. The multi-vis 0W-30 runs closest to that all the time, and gives the best protection. the SAE 30 gets VERY thich when cold, where the 0W-30 thickens less, but is still THICKER when cold than hot. SAE 30 flows very poorly cold, the 0W-30 flows much better.

You may want to compromise for you pocket, and 5W-30 is a good compromise - still flows far better when cold.
 
As Alan correctly pointed out, at operating temperature the 0W-30 and the single grade 30W have the same viscosity, but when it's below operating temperature, more so at the time you push the starter button in the morning -- which is where 90% of the engine wear occurs -- the multi-grade oil flows much, much better. Push a spoon in a jar of WD40 versus one with honey and you'll get the idea.
 
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