Motor Mount Replacements for 40

Pech33

Pech33

Senior Member
What’s the deal with making the new replacements work? The bolt on the old ones are the same length as the new ones, the rubber is taller. How do you compress the new mount? Or do I cut it?
 
Why would vendors sell bolts that are too short? For $20, I can cut 1/4” off the rubber, what’s the difference? $20!
 
Pech33 said:
Why would vendors sell bolts that are too short? For $20, I can cut 1/4” off the rubber, what’s the difference? $20!
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Hahaha! Why do venders sell a lot of crap that isn't correct and / or of good quality? Because guys buy the crap.

Cutting off 1/4" of rubber sure sounds counter-productive to me. With that sort of thinking I must ask, why replace them at all?
Motor mounts are designed at a specified height and of a specific (rubber) hardness.
 
19Fordy said:
I think the 40 Ford transmission mounts are the same as the motor mounts.
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You are correct :)

The best reproduction mount kits I'd ever found were Drake's. The ones with the metal ring. I'd not purchased any in many years and wonder if they remain of good quality.
Note though, that while the mounts he'd sold were very accurate, the bolts included in the kits were too short.
 
I didn't have any issues with the Drake mounts and factory hardware on my '40. I jacked up the engine and replaced the front two first, then the rear two. Then I let the jack down so the engine was fully resting on all 4 mounts before I put the nuts on and started to torque them down.

But that being said it's possible the bolts had been substituted for longer ones sometime in the last 81 years.
 
Why would the taller rubber pad even be produced? I own them so I am pretty sure that I am cutting them down to fit.
 

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I didn't see where these "tall" biscuits came from. They certainly don't have the metal band around them. Vintique maybe? Industria Argentina?
 
Judging from your photo, your old rubber mount is very compressed in the tapered area at the top. In other words, worn out and that's presumably why you are replacing them. There does not appear to be any difference in the height between the new and old where the vertical portion starts in the middle down to the bottom of the cup. Also in other words, the new ones appear to be correct. Why would you think that the new ones should look exactly the same in overall height compared to the badly compressed old one?
 
Looking at the photos the large upper puck is OK. Some aftermarket lower rubber has been available made to fit both early (1932/36) Small frame hole OR late (1937/48) large frame hole. You will need to cut off the smaller diameter rubber portion to make it fit in a 1940 frame. The bolt head will then be in contact with the metal washer part of the lower rubber. Problem solved.
 
I will check that out. I hope that is the fix. I will be at the shop tonight and take a closer look. Would have been nice if there was some directions in the package.
 
"You are correct sir", as Ed McMahon used to say. That is precisely the fix. This kit is from VanPelt and the bolts are 3 1/4" long. After trimming the smaller diameter piece on the grommet, it all came together. Thanks. The picture show the grommet on backwards, the smaller piece was trimmed off and goes against the head of the bolt. Works like it is supposed to.
 

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Pech33 said:
"You are correct sir", as Ed McMahon used to say. That is precisely the fix. This kit is from VanPelt and the bolts are 3 1/4" long. After trimming the smaller diameter piece on the grommet, it all came together. Thanks. The picture show the grommet on backwards, the smaller piece was trimmed off and goes against the head of the bolt. Works like it is supposed to.
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480519

Where's the cotter pin?
480520
 
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Laying on the bench, waiting for corn head grease to arrive. Motor has to come forward 6” to be able to “pack the u-joint”, then the motor mounts can be secured. I will tighten the motor mounts to the point of being able to get the cotter pin in and it won’t be going anywhere. They are pretty tight and still need a 1/2 to 3/4 turn to get the cotter pin in.
 
Ford Freak said:
How tight should these be? Is there a torque for them? - F F
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When I did this a few years ago, I was told there is no given torque spec for this bolt. I was told to get it good and tight so engine cannot lift off the rubber when working. But not so tight that the rubber is bulging, don't want the rubber compressed to a point where it can't provide some cushioning. Yeah, kinda vague.

I wonder this: Should this be looked at again now that its been a few years? Do these mounts need to be re-tightened a bit as the rubber compresses over time?
 
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