More on foam in the trans...

Great Lakes Greg

Well-known member
To keep an earlier thread going, I have a theory and would like input. I drained and refilled the transmission on my coupe with so called genuine 600 wt. It shifts nicely until it is driven several miles, then grinds a bit from nuetral into any gear from a stop. I think the viscosity is doing this foam thing and the gears are not slowing down when I push in the clutch for the take-off. If I pause a bit, I can shift with no grinding, but it is a little annoying to have to go through this delay. Nonsense, or on to something?
I would also like to know more about the Lubriplate SPO288 recommended by Mr. Lavoy.
 
The 600W sold today has been said to be several different things, anywhere from 160 to 250 weight or a combination of some weight of gear oil with STP added..
SPO277 is listed as 140 wgt, SPO288 as 250 wgt and SPO299 as 600 wgt.. I have tried all three of the above and don't really notice much difference between them.. I don't drive it in the cold weather though.. I haven't noticed any foam..
Some fellas are using steam cylinder oil in varying weights..
 
Greg, first off, make sure the vent is open and not plugged.

Second, I not sure the foaming is related to the shifting. Thick grease does assist in shifting but it is not totally necessary.

Here are couple of tips...
When shifting from neutral to low in a hurry, either retard the spark lever rapidly to slow the engine RPM as you pull it into low, --or drop it into high gear momentarily and then move the lever into low gear (all in one swooping motion).

Regarding low-to-intermediate, and intermediate-to-high gear shifting, slow down how rapidly in which you are moving the lever. Also, I find most people try to rev the engine too high in each gear before they shift. Making your first shift at 5-7 mph, --and your second shift at around 15 mph.

.
 
Brent,
Where is the vent on the gearbox? Mine must be so blocked I can't find it. Oil is being forced out the sealed front and rear bearings enough to be annoying.
 
Brent,
Where is the vent on the gearbox? Mine must be so blocked I can't find it. Oil is being forced out the sealed front and rear bearings enough to be annoying.

TransmissionStand.jpg


Look about the middle of the shift tower on the rear of the top cover and you will see a hole about 3/16". If it's pluged you can twist a 1/8" drill bit between your fingers as you lightly push it into the hole. Hold a vaccum cleaner hose next to the hole to suck out the junk, so it doesn't go inside the ******.
 
I would drain out the 600W again and refill with one of these modern Ford 600w equivalents: Also is your clutch adjusted?? and are you double clutching??

Mobil: Mobilgear 636
BP: Energol GR-XP 680
Castrol: Castrol Alpha LS680
Shell: Omala 680
Texaco: Meropa 680
 
Thanks Jim,
Where I really mess up with pictures is when I'm at the national meet and don't take enough detail pictures of the nice ORIGINAL cars, or pictures of details on Marco's and Dave Lopes' restored cars.
 
Thank you Tom. My vent had tape over it and then paint - many layers. I guess someone masked it years ago and then forgot to pull the tape off. I repainted right over the top of it without noticing when I ovehauled the box last year.
Your photos certainly are great!
 
Great pictures Tom. Do you keep a spare engine and transmission in your shop just for the pictures or are you doing a restoration? The transmission stand in the picture, is that just threaded into the bottom of the ******?
 
Great pictures Tom. Do you keep a spare engine and transmission in your shop just for the pictures or are you doing a restoration? The transmission stand in the picture, is that just threaded into the bottom of the ******?

Thanks, That was a ****** I did for a customer about 5 years ago. I just take pictures when I think they might come in handy later.

The ****** holder is just a piece of pipe screwed into the drain hole. The flange plate isn't needed. Save the $4 and just screw the pipe into the wood board. I've made a few that way. I also drilled another hole in the board to hold the drain plug, so it stays with the ******.

BTW, to answer Greg's original question, your ****** sounds OK and normal. I use Mobil 636 and the gears slow down very quickly for the first couple miles, then after the gear oil has warmed up it takes about 5 seconds or so at stop signs for the clutch disc to slow enough to shift from neutral to first. I don't hold my foot on the clutch at stop lights, but try to see the light turn yellow turn for the crossroad, then push the clutch in, so I can shift and go without delay when my light turns green. If I can't see the side light, then I just try to anticipate the change to green for me.
 
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