I chose to install the steady rods in the 8BA block using the existing threaded boss on the block. The configuration uses a threaded stud in the boss that protrudes about 3/4 inch from the bell housing flange. A 1 3/4nut extension was installed on the stud and tightened to provide clamping on the bell housing flange. The steady rod was cut to the appropriate length, threaded and screwed into the nut extension. Word description frequently do not give good explanations. I hope to add pictures.
MORE 8BA in 1936
- Thread starter Derby
- Start date
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
Derby....That is actually pretty slick looking. In fact, it's a very well thought out idea. To complete that transformation, I would suggest but one more small detail. I would carry the threads just a smidge further towards the rear on the rods to allow the use of a JAMB nut just behind those two COUPLING nuts. That way the threaded rods are locked tightly into the coupling nuts rather than being able to rock back and forth within the slight clearances between male and female threads. Nicely done, though! DD
19Fordy
Well-known member
Derby: You did an outstanding job. Clean and simple. Jamb nut is an excellent idea too. Beats welding ears to bell housing like I did many years ago. When you install the engine depress clutch and brake pedals to make sure your clutch and brake pedals "clear" the steady rods with no interference on nearby parts.
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Steve in Denver
Well-known member
JM 35 Sedan
Well-known member
There is no preload on the stock antichatter rods/steady rods on my original '35 Fords.
Still a lot of thinking about a fan to do. Once I have the engine installed I want to take measurements. I need to really understand setting the radiator tilt.
Regarding preload, my hope is to adjust to obtain a slight tension. One turn of the rods fore or aft may be needed. Since the engine position is set by the torque tube, some adjustment may be appropriate. Normal thermal expansion will add tension, I believe, a slight tension cold will be sufficient.
BTW, the car year is 1937. I mistyped in the THREAD TITLE
Regarding preload, my hope is to adjust to obtain a slight tension. One turn of the rods fore or aft may be needed. Since the engine position is set by the torque tube, some adjustment may be appropriate. Normal thermal expansion will add tension, I believe, a slight tension cold will be sufficient.
BTW, the car year is 1937. I mistyped in the THREAD TITLE
JM 35 Sedan
Well-known member
With your set-up, as I see it, it appears to me that you can preload those rods.
Bored&Stroked
Well-known member
Truth be told, the best/easiest setup is to reconfigure the front of a late 49-53 engine to mimic a 39-48. This does require a front-mount distributor (no big deal) - but makes it possible to mount an alternator/generator in the stock location and use the stock 36 mechanical fan. Also, this resolves any front crank-pulley to crossmember interference (not sure if this is an issue on a 36, but it is on a 32-34).
Here are the things you need to do (short list):
1) Crank/Cam Gears: Swap the crankshaft gear and cam timing gears to the 39-48 versions - such that the cam thrust is toward the block (this is very important!).
2) Cam and Snout: Modify the 49-53 cam to mimic the 32-48 cams (cut off the snout and add the offset t-slot) - or replace the cam with an earlier version. The version of the earlier cam and associated "snout" length - depends on the timing cover and distributor you use.
3) Timing Cover: Replace the timing cover with either a 3-bolt or 2-bolt 32-48 version. The one you use depends on your preferred distributor as well as the "snout" on the final cam choice.
4) Use the 37-48 Water Pumps: if you have a pair or "core" ones, I highly recommend they get rebuilt by 'Skip'.
5) Fan Mount: Depending on the intake manifold and number of carbs, either use a stock "style" generator/alternator with the necessary 4-bolt flange to mount your stock 36 fan, or create an 'idler' and fan-mount out of a cut-down stock generator. This gives you a place to mount the fan and a place to tighten the belt.
6) Crankshaft Pulley: You'll need an earlier single sheave crankshaft pulley that positions the belt to align with the 37-48 water pumps.
Note: I am not sure of the motor mount situation on a 36 (using 37-48) pumps. On a 34 we typically used a little "kit" that had some spacers to lift the front of the engine up and offset bolt locations such that you could use the stock mounting pads on one side and pickup the water pump locations on the top. Anybody comment?
Yes - it sounds like a lot of parts and work, but if you have this in your original engine rebuilt/setup plan, then it is one of the easiest ways to go to configure any later flathead to more easily fit in an earlier car/frame.
Best of luck!
B&S