Moisture problem..??

I dried everything, and still no start. I'm getting fuel, but I'll have to check for spark. I'm suspecting the Coil, but I'll have to do some of the tests.
I will get back to y'all............
 
That's the first thing I do to caps and rotors, is washer them with a brush and soap and hot water. Then I store them in my basement, but they will get moldy after a couple years, so I have to keep wiping them down. I wonder if there is any product to prevent the mold?
 
Sounds like you need to install radiant heat in the floor. That car won' last to long without a controlled area. JMHO
 
I replaced the coil with a new one, still no luck. Next I'm going to pull the carb, clean and dry it out and start fresh. I'm thinking maybe the condensation got into the carb. No water shows in the fuel bowl. The car show is Saturday. Fighting time now and running out of ideas.
 
Check for a good spark by holding the coil wire 1/4" from a head nut.
No use doing a carb if the problem is spark.

With the key on and points open, do you have 6 volts on the points movable contact?
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
That's the first thing I do to caps and rotors, is washer them with a brush and soap and hot water. Then I store them in my basement, but they will get moldy after a couple years, so I have to keep wiping them down. I wonder if there is any product to prevent the mold?
Click to expand...
Tom,
"Maybe" dip them in bleach??? I even use bleach for weed killer in patio & driveway cracks & to remove algae from the North wall.
Bill W.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
Check for a good spark by holding the coil wire 1/4" from a head nut.
No use doing a carb if the problem is spark.

With the key on and points open, do you have 6 volts on the points movable contact?
Click to expand...

I'll try that in the morning. The bleach, warm soapy water with a tooth brush sounds good also.

I'm willing to check all possibilities...................:confused::mad::eek:
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
Check for a good spark by holding the coil wire 1/4" from a head nut.
No use doing a carb if the problem is spark.

With the key on and points open, do you have 6 volts on the points movable contact?
Click to expand...

Tom, I am getting 6+ volts with the ignition switch on and going from the movable point to a head nut. I am NOT however getting any spark from the coil wire held 1/4" from a head bolt. Since I have a brand new coil, I'm going to replace the coil wire.

I'll keep you fellas informed.
 
with the points open at the moveable point arm you should read 6v.
with the points closed you should lose the 6v
if not the points contacts are dirty or bad
 
Mitch//pa said:
with the points open at the moveable point arm you should read 6v.
with the points closed you should lose the 6v
if not the points contacts are dirty or bad
Click to expand...

I am getting 6.4 volts with the points open. I replaced the coil wire, again with no good results. I tried with the ignition on and the coil wire next to a head bolt, Nothing.
 
what do u get with the points closed at the same location and key on?

as posted im #31 if you still have 6v when closed key on then you either have bad or dirty points or a bad ground to the distributor such as paint causing a poor connection but that scenario is very rare...
 
Last edited:
Mitch//pa said:
what do u get with the points closed at the same location and key on?

as posted im #31 if you still have 6v when closed key on then you either have bad or dirty points or a bad ground to the distributor such as paint causing a poor connection but that scenario is very rare...
Click to expand...

I get no voltage with the points closed, only when open. Is this "Witt's End" for me?
I think Miss Tillie is going to "stand me up" for Saturday's Car Show. "Stood Up, Broken Hearted", more than one person can handle.
 
bobpo1 said:
I get no voltage with the points closed, only when open. Is this "Witt's End" for me?
I think Miss Tillie is going to "stand me up" for Saturday's Car Show. "Stood Up, Broken Hearted", more than one person can handle.
Click to expand...

thats good points closed you should have no volts.

try holding the coil wire next to a head nut again // w/ key on open and close the points by hand and see if it sparks...

if it sparks then make sure the rotor is turning when you crank the engine
 
I am getting fire to the points, SO, I'm going to drop the carb and clean it out. I guess that with all the moisture I've had the moisture could have settle into the float bowl...
 
Wait....spark at the points doesn't mean you will have spark at the coil wire. Hold the coil wire 1/4" from a head nut and see if you get a hot blue spark, and make sure the rotor turns, as Mitch just mentioned.

If you don't get a hot blue spark, and the rotor turns, you might need a condenser, coil, or coil wire.
 
yooo MON slow down
as Tom said you didnt say if you had spark at the coil wire when actuating the points or if the rotor turns.
 
The rotor turns, but I still get No spark from the Coil Wire to a Head Nut. Since the Coil & Wire are new, can I assume I need a new condenser (the only thing I haven't replaced}?

ALSO, CAN I USE ANY CONDENSER OR DOES IT HAVE TO BE A 6 VOLT, OR A MODEL A?
 
call me at the shop today i want to walk you through a few things first to get this straightened out. over the phone is much easier
 
The car ran when parked but now won't start after setting during humid weather. If no wiring or parts were changed, then this shouldn't be hard to fix.

You said you have 6 volts at the points when they are open and zero volts when they are closed, so it sounds like they are working, but lets try another test. Have the points open and key on, then short the points contacts off and on several times with the blade of a screwdriver. The coil wire should have a hot blue spark when held 1/4" from a head nut.

If you don't get a good spark during this test, then repeat it while you have a volt meter connected across the 2 coil primary terminals. Each time you short the points with the screwdriver the volt meter should show 6 volts, and when the points aren't shorted the meter should go back to zero volts.

The condenser doesn't care if you use 6 volts or 12 volts.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top