modernize my 31 A

Call up FS ignitions and talk to them. Google them, and you will find the website. They are the best in the game with electronic ignitions, and they have many different options to choose from. I have had one in my car for two years without a problem, and my brother has had one for about a year without a problem. Someone on this forum will most likely try to talk you out of getting one, but they are a really nice set up and reliable. I would recommend it to anyone.
 
Do a search here and read the pros and cons. Most important point with any of them is a good ground. Also it's probably advisable to buy 2, and carry the spare with you. JMO
Paul in CT
 
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For what it is worth. I would suggest running an alternator as you can get errant voltage spikes on a generator that will fry the unit. If you are going to convert to an alternator you might want to consider 12 volts. This is in case you plan to run any accessories.

I assume you have made your argument for installing an electronic unit. They work better and require less maintenance. The only downside is you cannot repair them with a screwdriver and a nail file.
 
The biggest downside a few years ago was finding distributor cams that were quality enough to allow a points-equipped distributor to provide the same amount of spark and precise timing. Now Bill Stipe has made a cam that allows for more dwell time (stronger coil saturation which equals hotter spark) and more precisely ground cam lobes (more equal timing between all four cylinders) which has greatly equaled the playing field in my opinion. Couple that with a modern coil along with a top quality set of modern points & condensor, and both types of systems are pretty equally yoked in my opinion. What I have found is that may folks have tried to use an electronic set-up to mask issues such as a distributor that is in poor condition (worn plates and loose bushings). Regardless of which direction you choose, take the time to rebuild the distributor so you have a good foundation to work off of.


Oh, ...and Frank my friend, are you sure about all of that regarding alternators and how the electronic works better?? Not so sure I can 'buy-into' those thoughts of yours. :D
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Put the fs ing and a high comp head on. And if you really wont power put the 2 barrel carb on. That is if you wont to drive with the rest of the traffic. And enjoy your a . I know a lot people disagree with me,and that ok. We all love our a and have different openions,
 
The idea of changing the ignition to modern is pointless!!:D PUN intended

My stock ignition with the slant pole coil, original points, and generator puts out more spark than the plugs need. If the plugs don't miss under the most adverse conditions, such as hill climing, what's to be gained by increasing the spark, which pointless ignition may or may NOT do.

Keeping lube on the points cam and checking the gap every 3 to 5 thousand miles is just part of the fun of maintaining an antique car. Modern cars are more maintainence free, but they are also more of a throwaway automobile.
 
We installed one in the sedan in 2008. It now has about 15,000 miles on it and is working great. We ordered one for the roadster pickup build that we will be installing once we get the body back from the paint shop. The folks at FS are good to deal with and make a great product.
 
Buy a pertronix ignition and bolt it in......it's that easy. And works BETTER than a points system any day of the week. There are a ton of nay sayers on here that cry about electronic ignition systems but I have never had a problem with one. Most likely operator error & just too stubborn to change.

I have installed and ran the pertronix ignition in the following:
1. 1931 Model A Victoria
2. 1967 mustang coupe (289 engine)
3. 1939 ford pickup (59AB engine)
4. (2) John Deere 3020 gas tractors
 
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i ran an F&S on my '31 coupe, also weber alum. intake with a two barrel weber carb, reds header two outlet with dual exhaust, and a t5 5speed trans. still a model a with todays upgrades. i installed the motor in my nieghbors '29 sedan. he bought it and loves it. now i up graded to a flathead. its still a model a with up grades JAN.
 

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Last year on tour, one of our members won the "Rubber Chicken" award with electronic ignition.

Fortunatley, someone had a spare original dissy to get him going again, and it only delayed us 45 minutes. :rolleyes:
 
Mel and JD at FS are great guys to work with. We had them down for a hands on demonstration at one of our monthly club meetings. Many really like the units including their new unit that looks like a stock distributor.

I would put the money someplace else. I also am running stock points and like Tom says it's part of the experience with an 81 year old car.
 
Seth Swoboda said:
Buy a pertronix ignition and bolt it in......it's that easy. And works BETTER than a points system any day of the week. There are a ton of nay sayers on here that cry about electronic ignition systems but I have never had a problem with one. Most likely operator error & just too stubborn to change.

I have installed and ran the pertronix ignition in the following:
1. 1931 Model A Victoria
2. 1967 mustang coupe (289 engine)
3. 1939 ford pickup (59AB engine)
4. (2) John Deere 3020 gas tractors
Click to expand...

Seth, please let me ask you to qualify your statement above.

I know you say there are a lot of "neysayers" here but many of us have spoken based on our personal experiences with them. Again, if you would be so kind, could/would you explain why you feel they are better?
 
I don't see the advantage of electronic ignition. There is too many little things that can render electronic ignition useless. The original distributor is very simple to repair on the road. The only time that I ever had to be towed home was because of the so called modern points. If you want hotter spark I recommend the pertronix flame thrower coil, 1.5 OHM for six volt or 3.0 Ohm for twelve volt. I also recommend the Bill Stipe points cam. This will save some money and give hotter ignition that is way more forgiving to the home model A mechanic.
 
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