Modern vs Original points/condenser

KMeredith87

KMeredith87

Senior Member
I've been doing some research on this site but cannot seem to find a clear answer as to what the advantages or disadvantages of modern or original points and condenser. Lately I've had to change out my condenser a couple times within a few months and not sure why. (I currently have modern points and condenser) Just today after a 10-15 miles drive I stopped and shut the car off, it sat for about an hour and wouldn't start back up, changed the condenser and no problems. Later on in the day after another short drive and stop she had a hard time starting, started but not like normal and took a bit of time and coaxing. Not sure what the issue would be, everything else is in good working order and haven't had any other issues. The carb is fresh and I have good clean fuel in the tank. Any help is appreciated.
 
if you also have the modern lower plate with the brass contact eliminating the wire get rid of it.
the modern upper plate works but
most guys like the original style points design with the short proof condensor
oh and welcome to the barn and i salute you for your service
 
What Mitch said..............and I always start with the easy test to varify a good hot spark by holding the coil wire 1/4" from a head nut and cranking the engine with the key on. If you have a hot blue spark, then look for a fuel problem. On a rare occasion the spark could short to ground through the rotor.

This new 10% ethanol crap gas is prone to boiling and causing problems with stalling and hard starting, especially during red light stops on warm days, or running into the store for a few minutes.
 
Not saying this will fix your problems, but consider this.

The current condensers available for the Ford V8 points are not built very good. Seems they are getting low bid offshore units. Reading the Mustang boards I have run across guys having problems with them. They seem to be made by low bidder and there are many ways to put together a crappy condenser. Ask Dell when it had to redo a bunch of computers because of poorly manufactured caps.

You are much better off with A&L's burnout proof condenser as they spend the extra dime for a real quality capacitor that is rated for the conditions.

Recently a guy near me changed to modern points and condenser. After 400 miles the car quit and a new condenser to replace the new condenser fixed the car.

Ultimately, if you do not want to have problems you want all original parts in the distributer. A good quality set of used points is likely to out last your grand children's ownership of the car.
 
If want to run modern points/condensor, you might give consideration to the ACCEL heavy duty points and condensor set #8201. I get mine from Summit.. QUALITY!
 
Thanks for the responses. Looks like I'll order a set of original plates, points and condenser. If these things out last my grandkids I'll be impressed as I don't even have kids yet and won't for awhile!
 
I run original style P&C with zero issues. But then, I also take care of my electrical system as well.
 
KMeredith87 said:
Thanks for the responses. Looks like I'll order a set of original plates, points and condenser. If these things out last my grandkids I'll be impressed as I don't even have kids yet and won't for awhile!
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I had to fix a distributor for a customer the other day. He had installed a new repro top and lower plate. The distributor shaft had the drilled hole in top, so it was replaced at one time, but it was too loose for my liking, so I installed a new one. After I polished the new shaft on my lathe it fit the bushings just right. I don't know where the customer bought the repro parts, but the top plate actually fit as nice as a good original part. The lower plate was made of thinner metal, but should be OK if the cable isn't screwed in so tight as to bend the metal strap running to the condenser terminal. His insulating washer on the condenser was small enough to fit through the hole, so it wasn't really going to work to prevent a short if the cable is screwed in too far.

When the lower plate wire is screwed onto the top plate be sure to bend the wire terminal along side the nut at 90* and be sure it faces the shaft, so it won't short against the spring or body.

BTW, it would be a good idea to polish the brass button on the cable end before it's screwed into the distributor. A bit of points lube or grease will help to prevent oxidation on the contact.
 
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Here's a couple pictures of one I rebuilt.
 

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I never had anything but problems with the so called modern points. I can tell you for sure that there is NO advantage with this setup.
 
Carnut: nope! He head has not been repainted in some time and haven't really had issue until recently so my guess would be a have a good ground.

Well I guess I'll order a set of reproduction plates for now to see if I have any better luck with them and keep an eye out for a decent of originals. Any issues with the reproduction points or points block?
 
I just used repo original style upper and lower plates and they sell an installation kit with all the little screws and insulators needed. It all went together fine and the fit was good.
 
I have run both "modern" and original points; much prefer the original- 10x easier to adjust.
condenser used to be the weak part of the original setup but the new repros are much improved.....
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
Here's a couple pictures of one I rebuilt.
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That wire from the lower plate to the points looks like it's too stiff, Tom. That will break in no time flat!

And, I also echo the comments about going to original style points and condenser. I had a lot of trouble with the "modern" style on the Tudor I bought. It was Tom who convinced me to go to the original style. Haven't had a single ignition problem since! It just runs.
 
P.S. said:
That wire from the lower plate to the points looks like it's too stiff, Tom. That will break in no time flat!

And, I also echo the comments about going to original style points and condenser. I had a lot of trouble with the "modern" style on the Tudor I bought. It was Tom who convinced me to go to the original style. Haven't had a single ignition problem since! It just runs.
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Not at all.:)
It took me over 3 years to find a spool of very fine flexible wire with a good covering.
This wire has 161 strands in it.:)
 
You can buy very fine strand silicone covered wire at a shop that sells model airplanes etc.I bought a 2 ft piece for around $2. Very flexible & heat proof.
 
columbiA said:
You can buy very fine strand silicone covered wire at a shop that sells model airplanes etc.I bought a 2 ft piece for around $2. Very flexible & heat proof.
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Thanks for the tip. I'm a model airplane kind of guy (I fly pattern and IMAC, won west coast champs 2 years in a row in the early 90's) so been to the bobby shop a time or two. The wire sold at the hobby shop for E-flight is indeed very flexible, but the insulation leaves a lot to be desired. It's designed to be light weight, and whatever they use for a coating doesn't hold up to the abrasion good enough for my taste. Works OK in a wood or foam fuselage, but I wouldn't trust it rubbing the insides of a hot Model A distributor.
 
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