Modern speaker in 1940 dash

Automotive Stud

Automotive Stud

Well-known member
As we know the original speaker was part of the radio assembly. I'd like to see some ideas on making a bracket that fastens the speaker in place. Ideally I'd just tack weld some studs on the back of the dash, but I don't want to take the dash out and I don't want to repaint the dash.
 
My 40 doesn't have a radio but, I had a similar problem when I wanted to mount my Constant Voltage Reducer behind my dash without drilling any holes, welding that would damage the paint, or alter the dash or surrounding metal in any way. To solve the problem, I made a mounting bracket out of .090 aluminum sheet metal for the CVR and mounted the bracket using the 2 existing stock holes inside the bottom of the dash below the 2 dash knobs you see in the photos. The thickness of the al. sheet metal allowed it to support it's own weight and that of the CVR without flexing. Hence, the 2 screws with nuts is all that was needed. You can't see the CVR because it's on the opposite side of the bracket. Perhaps you can adapt this idea by bolting a small speaker to the back of a piece of aluminum sheet metal. If you do any welding on your dash you will bubble the paint and open up a can of worms. Good luck.
I think you can get a pretty small high quality speaker that will fit.
 

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Automotive Stud said:
As we know the original speaker was part of the radio assembly. I'd like to see some ideas on making a bracket that fastens the speaker in place. Ideally I'd just tack weld some studs on the back of the dash, but I don't want to take the dash out and I don't want to repaint the dash.
Click to expand...

I may have a NOS speaker if you are interested.
 
Paul, that's for my electric fuel pump. All the little paper tags tell what wire goes to, just in case. The little round white plastic gizmo is a small LED light to illuminate the interior of car floor very nicely at night. Comes on when you turn on headlights.
 
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Remove your existing speaker grille. Run a die over the top and bottom studs and to cut some threads(10-32 should do it.). Find some thin flat stock to span the top studs and the bottom studs.Drill the stock to fit over the studs. Put the grille back in the dash with the flat stock on the back side of the dash and bolt it all together. Now you should be able to find a speaker that can span the flat stock and all you need to do is bolt the speaker to the flat stock. That should save you from pulling the dash or drilling any extra holes.
 
TJ's idea is a very good one. Clean and simple. You could also an add a threaded extender stud to the OEM studs you have already thread, if needed.
 
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