Ed Northrop
Senior Member
Does any one have any information on modern shock kits like Ken Davis makes. Does this improve the ride and handling of the model a.
Modern shocks
- Thread starter Ed Northrop
- Start date
Smitty
Well-known member
After rebuilding my shocks 3-times in the past 5 years I had enough. I built my own shock mounts and installed the rears so far. The difference in significant, corners, handles and rides much better that it ever has.
When you look at kits be sure that shock has plenty of travel room.
Steve
When you look at kits be sure that shock has plenty of travel room.
Steve
tbirdtbird
BANNED
ken davis has complete kits for this: brackets already fabbed and shocks ready to go
http://www.kendavismodela.com/Shocks.html
if you are not familiar with Ken his stuff is first class
he supplies full AC kits also
http://www.kendavismodela.com/Shocks.html
if you are not familiar with Ken his stuff is first class
he supplies full AC kits also
After some exhaustive research I have also decided to go with a Ken Davis kit for my 30 roadster. I contacted him yesterday via email to ask for a shipping quote to Canada, and received 2 different quotes this afternoon. Because the shipping cost was a little high for the full kit, he quoted me the shipping and cost for just the brackets, and sent me the part numbers for the shocks to buy locally. Communication has been excellent so far. Either way I'm buying something from him.
Skibb
Well-known member
I have 1,500 miles on a set of modern shocks that are excellent. My car has new springs front and rear and each leaf has a beveled edge. So what? Right, the car needed shocks. These are Monroe gas shocks from Dick Pirkl, Tubular Conversions, 608 573 7433. Priced about mid 300 plus shipping should be twice that based on the ride.
KGBnut
Well-known member
I installed a Ken Davis kit in 2011. At that time, I wrote a rather detailed post about the my experience with installation. I will re-post it below.
It has now been a year and a half since the install and I am just as happy, if not happier with them. I would definitely buy Ken's kit again.
* * * * * * * * * * *
From November 2011
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50895&showall=1
I finally got around to installing the shocks that I got from Ken Davis. I'm very pleased with how the installation went. Ken's instructions are practically non-existent, however, it is fairly obvious how they go in. If you have the old Houdaille shocks in the car, you will need to remove all the old linkages.
The fronts went together very easily. You need to remove the original Houdaille cylinder. The upper bracket mounts in the original Houdaille mounting holes. Don't be confused by the one extra hole in the bracket. It is there to clear a frame rivet. The lower front bracket does require drilling a 3/8" hole through the front axle. I know...it is not easy to drill a hole through our precious Henry Steel, but (a)these axles are plenty strong enough to manage it, (b)if I ever change back that hole can easily be welded back up, and (c)I'm not that much of a purist. The hole is drilled about 4" from the spring perch. Spend a little time to ensure that you put it where you will get the best clearance as the axle travels.
The rears do require the removal of the brake drums. The lower brackets bolt right through the brake backing plate. Here I encountered my only disappointment with the design. The original nuts that secure the bolts through the backing plates have a built-in spacer to fit into a recess. The ones that come with the kit don't. And, the new bolts are a different thread, so you can't reuse the old nuts. I made some small spacers to compensate, but if I had to do it over again, I would take the time to get longer bolts the same thread as the originals, drill a cotter pin hole through them, and reused the original nuts.
The location to attach the upper brackets for the rears was a little tricky to find. Look directly above the springs and you will find two bolts through the frame. It is secured by those bolts above the frame. Once I found the holes they were easy to mount.
Really taking my time on a pretty cold day, the whole job took the better part of the morning. I still had time for a test drive before lunch.
To be fair, my 1930 Coupe had no shocks at all, and I have no experience driving one with the original Houdaille shock, so I can't compare them. However, compared to driving with no shocks, she is an entirely different car. The improvement in handling and control is remarkable. She is stable around sharp corners, and no longer skitters across the road when hitting rough pavement. The new shocks make her a pleasure to drive, and I believe the increased control makes her safer.
Obviously, the shocks do not look stock, but they don't show much at all. When I get a chance I'm going to crawl under there with a can of flat black and I'm sure they will disappear.
Would I but this kit again? Absolutely! This kit was the most affordable of any of the options I looked at, right around $200.00 for the complete kit ready to install. The brackets are sturdy and well made. Ken was easy to work with and his turn around time was pretty good. And most of all, my wife is now happier to ride with me.
It has now been a year and a half since the install and I am just as happy, if not happier with them. I would definitely buy Ken's kit again.
* * * * * * * * * * *
From November 2011
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50895&showall=1
I finally got around to installing the shocks that I got from Ken Davis. I'm very pleased with how the installation went. Ken's instructions are practically non-existent, however, it is fairly obvious how they go in. If you have the old Houdaille shocks in the car, you will need to remove all the old linkages.
The fronts went together very easily. You need to remove the original Houdaille cylinder. The upper bracket mounts in the original Houdaille mounting holes. Don't be confused by the one extra hole in the bracket. It is there to clear a frame rivet. The lower front bracket does require drilling a 3/8" hole through the front axle. I know...it is not easy to drill a hole through our precious Henry Steel, but (a)these axles are plenty strong enough to manage it, (b)if I ever change back that hole can easily be welded back up, and (c)I'm not that much of a purist. The hole is drilled about 4" from the spring perch. Spend a little time to ensure that you put it where you will get the best clearance as the axle travels.
The rears do require the removal of the brake drums. The lower brackets bolt right through the brake backing plate. Here I encountered my only disappointment with the design. The original nuts that secure the bolts through the backing plates have a built-in spacer to fit into a recess. The ones that come with the kit don't. And, the new bolts are a different thread, so you can't reuse the old nuts. I made some small spacers to compensate, but if I had to do it over again, I would take the time to get longer bolts the same thread as the originals, drill a cotter pin hole through them, and reused the original nuts.
The location to attach the upper brackets for the rears was a little tricky to find. Look directly above the springs and you will find two bolts through the frame. It is secured by those bolts above the frame. Once I found the holes they were easy to mount.
Really taking my time on a pretty cold day, the whole job took the better part of the morning. I still had time for a test drive before lunch.
To be fair, my 1930 Coupe had no shocks at all, and I have no experience driving one with the original Houdaille shock, so I can't compare them. However, compared to driving with no shocks, she is an entirely different car. The improvement in handling and control is remarkable. She is stable around sharp corners, and no longer skitters across the road when hitting rough pavement. The new shocks make her a pleasure to drive, and I believe the increased control makes her safer.
Obviously, the shocks do not look stock, but they don't show much at all. When I get a chance I'm going to crawl under there with a can of flat black and I'm sure they will disappear.
Would I but this kit again? Absolutely! This kit was the most affordable of any of the options I looked at, right around $200.00 for the complete kit ready to install. The brackets are sturdy and well made. Ken was easy to work with and his turn around time was pretty good. And most of all, my wife is now happier to ride with me.
Last edited:
Pat Martone
Senior Member
I installed Ken Davis shocks recent; they are great and my car rides better and seems to be more stable too.
sidhartha
Senior Member
I put a set on my 31 Tudor. It had no shocks at all when I got it. I search and found a number of options but most required drill the front axle or rear frame. I settled on a set from Ryan Kaye. They clamp to the front axle and are very solid. The rear uses existing holes in the crossmember where the rear bumper mounts. I did have to drill out two exsisting holes in the backing plate. They were $310.00 for 4 mounts and a set of Gabriel shocks. The rides much better and it eliminated my issues with body roll.
Last edited:
Terry NJ
Well-known member
I hated to do it! It involved drilling two (L & R) 5/8" holes in my chassis! For me, That was painful! My New coupe already had a "Kit" on it so I just duplicated the pieces from angle iron , drilled the appropriate holes, bought some "Graded" fine threaded hardware and installed the kit. Next, I took the old shocks off and tried to get the numbers off them. No way, Too rusty. So we tried to match as close as we could come. I bought Monroe, Gas-matics # 59017 and put them on. Are they good? I suppose so. The car rides hard (next to a modern car) is that a function of the springs or the shocks? But It stays on the road, doesn't lean in corners. What more can I ask?
For pics of this, go to my profile and come down to "My A".
Terry
For pics of this, go to my profile and come down to "My A".
Terry
Last edited:
Ed Northrop
Senior Member
Thanks for all of your comments, this is great information
CarlG
Well-known member
The same bolts that hold the radius rods and the forward half of the backing plate work there like a charm. I just bought 4 of them from Snyders and used them instead of the bolts that came with the kit.
Attached Thumbnails
Last edited:
Terry NJ
Well-known member
Actually, I put them on soon after I got the car. I really was too focused on other things to notice the what the ride was like. As I said, the ride is hard. But is that because of the of the springs, not the shocks.
Terry
Terry
Skibb
Well-known member
Terry, I'm a novice. Wish I could tell you true with the nuts 'n bolts of it. But My car had replacement springs but worn out shocks. Oh, we had a nice enough ride until we met a corner. Ole Dick Pirkl fixed us up. We put a second set of his on the restoration car.
Terry NJ
Well-known member
This best and quickest way to discribe what a shock does is to say it's a "brake" for the spring. The shock absorber slows the action of the spring. Don't quote me on this, but If a shock is too stiff , it slows the spring too much and it will ride hard. If it's too light, it will not slow the action of the springs enough and the ride will be bouncy. The shock I used is actually a little to heavy/stiff and the ride is a little hard, The upside of this is that the car corners good. I'm satisfied with it. I sailed around a fairly sharp curve at 40-45mph with it two days ago and the car didn't lean a bit.
Terry
Terry
Last edited: