"Modern" Shocks from Snyders

Canton_Model_A's

Canton_Model_A's

Senior Member
I should receive my "Modern" shocks today from Synders. Has anyone here had any issues with them, either with running with them and/or installing them. My current Model-A doesn't have any shocks so I am at the mercy of the springs.

Thanks!

Dave
 
If you are talking about tube shocks I just installed a set on our 4 door and have had them on our Roadster for a number of years. Love them for New England roads. Just follow the instructions sent with the set, very easy to install. I did need to take a die hand grinder and open the I.D. of the star lock washers that were included in the kit by about 0.010 to fit Keith
 
They do work well, other than the front shocks angle isn’t the best, tube shocks work best at a 90degree angle to the load ( line of movement).
 
jack backer said:
They do work well, other than the front shocks angle isn’t the best, tube shocks work best at a 90degree angle to the load ( line of movement).
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Yes, but by experience, some gas charged tube shocks can be too stiff for an A.
Angling them can help the spring rates (see attached) and lessen the firmness.
 

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Placing modern shocks at an angle provides lateral stability which the Model "A" sorely needs because of its transverse suspension springs.
 
I'll echo the comments above about the "modern" shocks being too stiff and add that I have had a couple of the lower rear mounting brackets break.(that attach at the back of the backing plate). Naturally, they broke hundreds of miles from home. The first time, as I drove through a country town, I saw an engineering business where agricultural equipment was repaired. They were easily able to weld it on the spot.
I think the breaks happened because the shocks are too stiff.
 
For those that don't mind fabricating and doing a small amount of reading, midget and sprint race car shocks come in several lengths and multiple stiffness rates.
They can be had on many race car parts classified ad forums.
Many race teams only run them a certain amount of time and get rid of them. These are plenty good for thousands of miles on the street and they are generally quite a bit cheaper than new automotive shocks.

The fabricating part usually comes easy for most people.
Reading about stuff seems to come a bit harder.
Stiffness rates and combinations thereof are the main thing to understand.

Another BIG advantage, even on a street driven car is, this type of shock is mounted body UP which reduces unsprung weight and improves ride and handling.
 
In my opinion, the best ride improvement is to replace the Model "A" wheels with 1932 - 1935 V8 Ford wire wheels so you can run wider tires. I prefer1932 18" wheels because they fill the wheel openings close to stock 19" wheels, and they run 5.25x18 tires. I have 18" wheels on my Coupe.

Otherwise I would consider adjustable telescoping shocks because the dampening rates need to be different front to rear.
 

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I also have the V8 wheels, 5.25x5.5x17. My car came with 2 shocks, both frozen. I chose not to drill the frame so I went with stock style shocks.

Regards
Bill
 
Pete, Can you give makes , models, numbers of shocks that would suit mainly the front ones, as we have found the ones dealers sell as a set a bit hard on our roads, thanks,Derek on holiday at speedsters reunion ,
 
quickchange said:
Pete, Can you give makes , models, numbers of shocks that would suit mainly the front ones, as we have found the ones dealers sell as a set a bit hard on our roads, thanks,Derek on holiday at speedsters reunion ,
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The main thing you need to know to get started is the working installed length for your car.
A good place to start for compression/rebound is 50/50. Try them and see if you like the ride and go from there.
There are so many makes,models and part numbers that you should be able to find something easily.
Remember, read up first and you DO NOT need new ones. Used ones will outlast you.

There is a LOT of midget and sprint car activity down under so you shouldn't have any problem locating some.
 
Check out Pete and Jakes "plain hydraulics"; they may be similar to the A vendors offerings and have similar rebound rates. The 60's VW Empi shocks with eyelets fit the Snyders kit (with mod's to the eyelets) . Some posters say the Empis have a softer ride more closely matched to the Model A spring rates and weight.. A number of shocks can be compared by compressing them by hand. Ask the A vendors who supplies their shocks, (such as Monroe, ac Delco and many more.) Some companies only produce gas assisted shocks which may be too stiff for the A..
 
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MG used hydraulic knee action shocks up through 1959 that I know of. My MGA's had them. Original Model A shocks should work well but are expensive and require adjustment and maintenance. I may have had one Model A with stock shocks on them but the rest had the shocks missing, probably removed because they were dead. Pete's plan seems wise. I would like to know the contact for the used midget or sprint car shocks. An internet URL would be nice.
 
My car rides a little stiffer with the Snyder shocks(they are non gas) but my car handles so much better than no shocks at higher speeds, it’s much safer. I tried other shocks that were gas and I was amazed how much worse the ride was, way to stiff for my roadster.
 
Thanks for all the info. I’ll need to get something on the front until I can find a way to rebuild the Roto Flows that are on the front.
 
My first test run with the Snyder's shocks feels so much better. The only complaint I had is that I had to drill a 1/2" hole in the rear cross member to get the mount for the top of the shock. it was a real pain to get it all nice and tight. But the car runs so much better now, (It had no shocks at all). I would recommend the shocks to anyone. Just make sure they are the Oil ones and not the Gas ones, the Model-A, as others have indicated here on the forum, are not heavy enough to compress the gas shocks.

HTH!
 
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