Modern Ignition Points

Robert/Texas

Robert/Texas

Well-known member
I need a set of "modern" ignition points for my '28 open cab pickup. The problem is that I installed a Nu Rex upper plate for modern points back when it seemed that most of the old style condensers were failing. I now can't get these points gapped at less than about .028 (the tip on the end of the arm is paper thin) and although the engine runs great it is hard to start.

Could anyone recommend a good replacement brand/part number (NAPA?). I know that the vendors sell these but I hate to pay the freight charge for such a small inexpensive item.

Thanks, Robert
 
I usually find other parts that I can use, or keep for future use, to help defray the shipping costs.
In fact, I'd order an original top plate and go back to stock points and condenser.
 
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They are stock Ford V-8 from the early 70's back to 55 I think. Just remember the whole thing pivots not just the point part. I used NAPA points-I don't remember the part# off the top of my head.

Mike
 
Thanks to all of you. I have the old top plate but not a good condensor and agree that the old style points are best (much easier to adjust) but I would still need to pay the freight for a new condensor. I just called the NAPA store and they will order a set for me. They said that the last year for these points was '74 as they went to electronic in '75.

Thanks again. This a great source and I appreciate the fast and useful responses.

Robert
 
The V8 condenser will work with original style points. The V8 condenser can be mounted to the firewall or coil bracket and the pig tail connected to the switch side of the coil, this will be the red wire on the coil. I've run my september 29 this way for the last eight years. The condenser gets more air, runs cooler and is easy to remove and replace.

Sept-1.jpg
 
Yes, that is an extra ground in the picture. The Briggs fordor cowl has a lot of wood and I wanted to make sure that I had good ground . If the condenser is mounted to the coil bracket, I would remove some paint under the coil bracket to make sure that I got good ground.

Sept-2.jpg
 
For the condenser to operate correctly, it should be as close to the points as possible. If it's mounted away from the points, then in effect you have introduced an inductor (wire from the condenser to the points) into the circuit. The added inductance will decrease the effect of the condenser and cause the points to burn and reduce the output from the ignition coil.

Sure...can work but the design of this type of ignition system (points,coil, and cap) works best with the cap\condenser close to the points.

With a Ford Model A, I want the best from an antique system.

Marc
 
Been running the same points for eight years . As long as its in the loop, it doesn't make a damn where the condenser is mounted . Marc, you simply don't know what you are talking about.
 
Purdy, not true. The points give a lot of damm about that condensor being mounted as close as possible.

Think about it, where do all the manufacturers put their points?
That is right as close to the points as reasonable.

The reason is simple electronics. The condensor is to take the quick high voltage back EMF from the coil collapse and shunt it to ground so that it can not arc and damage the points. If you have a wire it has resistance and the voltage will be a bit higher at the points end then the ground. A longer wire more resistance and you get a higher voltage at the points.

So the manufacturers really really want to mount the condensor way away from the heat. They are made out of stuff that does not like the heat (well modern burn out proof stuff is much better then the days of old- modern chemicals) and was not very reliable back in 1930. But they were all mounted as close as possible to the points becuase of the rules of electronics.

Now your installation at the firewall helps, but over time the points will have problems. Also I believe you will increase the RF interference from the circuit as the spike in voltage along the wire is basically a wide band transmitter (think spark gap transmitter just short range).

If you were driving the car everyday I would bet that your points would not last as long they should. Since you probably are not putting zillions of miles on your car you are not likely to see the points having troubles. Thought it might contribute subtle running issues, I am not sure of this.

The short of it is, since you do not drive your car much and do not have an old radio in your car you really are not likely to see the downside to what you have done.
 
Purdy Swoft said:
Been running the same points for eight years . As long as its in the loop, it doesn't make a damn where the condenser is mounted . Marc, you simply don't know what you are talking about.
Click to expand...

What an intelligent comment! Purdy, I have tried to keep the conversation technical and not personal...You have crossed a line.

I've been an electrical engineer for many years and I do know what I'm talking about.


Marc
 
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A wire, ANY wire, has capacitance. You can measure it. I've worked on projects where is was deemed to be important. If you add a length of wire to the capacitor (condenser), the wire capacitance is added. Does it make a difference? IMO, a little, but not much. IMO, form your own opinion, or, just keep an eye on the points and see if they 'care'. The amount of wire added here, as shown, is the wire from the coil, down to the distributor. I have one car running with an added wire that is probably twice as long as shown here. No observable problems.
Is Bubba on this forum? I'd speculate that Jim could measure & tell us about what capacitance is being added.
JMO
 
I was having issues...installed the NAPA Echlin parts as well as a new Echlin Coil...and now she runs like a top!

Points CS751 Echlin (new Ford style)
Condenser FA5 Echlin

CC
 
In common i use a moderns-style distributor as condenser SHOULD survive longer (being out of the main heat).

Now it happens that last modern-style condensers died with less than 600miles on it :eek:

A: Where to buy a GOOD new style condenser ?

B: Any dummy-method to test a condenser once its out of the car...?
(seems it takes some heat and load to fail ?)

Thank you
Christoph
 
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