Modern distributor

I think you are asking for trouble. The original distributor will work fine. Why do you want to change it?
 
It's still a points and condenser set up just like the original.
I'd stay with the original.

Bob
 
If you're having a pre-ignition issue, i would check the timing before anything else. Sounds too far advanced...if you are referring to ping....
 
The Snyder's kit you refer to is a kit to install "modern points and condenser" in a Model A original distributor. Many of these kits have been installed. Some people on this board swear by them, some swear at them.
It will fit in a original Model A distributor.
 
Freak these guys all out M and install a Mallory dual point distributor, gut it and add a Pertronics Ignitor kit. More than enough spark for what ever engine/ engine mods you might have. And based on my experience, really reliable…(raced a Sunbeam Tiger, early Corvette, and will install on my 30 roadster).. Not stock but it truly performs.. I also happen to know if your engine is stock then just tune up your original distributor..
 
M. Philips said:
Thinking it might be more reliable?
Then I don't have to botter with the preignition?
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Nothing more reliable than a good original distributor. That's one part I never think about or have to mess with, except to fill the oil cup every 500 miles.

My engine had bad preignition until I cleaned all the rust build up out of the rear of the engine. It was causing a hot spot, and the slightest acceleration made the engine sound like a popcorn machine. Now all the rust deposits are gone and the engine never pings.
 
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Modern points are a lot easier to deal with. Get a spare point mounting plate. Install it and adjust the points then put the other unit in. Then if you have a problem on the road it is a snap to drop in the plate with the new points that are already adjusted.
 
I agree with George !!! I've tried them and had nothing but trouble . Avoid the so called modern points and condenser setup. There is no advantage. I call it a make shift rig .
 
Chris Haynes said:
Modern points are a lot easier to deal with. Get a spare point mounting plate. Install it and adjust the points then put the other unit in. Then if you have a problem on the road it is a snap to drop in the plate with the new points that are already adjusted.
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WHEN you have problems.

I went with modern....far more time consuming to adjust them and to square up contacts plus I had 3 failed condensers in 2 weeks. When back to the original points with a short proof condensor and it hasn't missed a beat in over 5000 miles.

(I did get spoiled by the wireless lower plate and kept it. Smeared a little dielectric grease on the contact area and I haven't had any issues at any spark setting.)
 
MAG said:
The Snyder's kit you refer to is a kit to install "modern points and condenser" in a Model A original distributor. Many of these kits have been installed. Some people on this board swear by them, some swear at them.
It will fit in a original Model A distributor.
Click to expand...

We have club members that have them and some have changed back to stock. Clean, lube adjust and use the money saved to buy gas and drive it!
 
back in the 70's, repro A points were garbage from Brasil, and the "modern" style points became popular, using points from 70's Fords. Today, the repro A points are good quality, and the aftermarket 70's Ford points are not very good. So we have come full circle. Stick with originals. The cause of your pre ignition problem lies elsewhere.
 
Electronic ignitions usually work or they don't. They usually give a better idle because points are mechanical so a worn lobe, loose bushing, worn rubbing block, or pitting contacts can change the dwell time affecting your idle. Cheap points can wear quickly but good points usually last for years. [FONT=&quot]So it really boils down to preference and financial ability. If you can afford it and you dislike changing points then go for the EI, if you would rather spend your money on something else or you enjoy changing points then stick with good points.

A replacement module runs about $60.00 and it's a good idea to carry a spare if you venture far afield because when or if it dies, there's no adjustment that will bring it back to life.

You linked to a 12 volt EI so I'm guessing it has already been converted. If not the cost for upgrading to 12 volts will include battery, alternator, bulbs, horn resistor.

Please let us know your decision.
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Thank you for the info.
Looks like they also have this for 6v,
Sow with this set up I would not have to constantly change
Pre-ignition?
 
M. Philips said:
Thank you for the info.
Looks like they also have this for 6v,
Sow with this set up I would not have to constantly change
Pre-ignition?
Click to expand...

i think what your calling pre - ignition and what we interpret by pre - ignition might be two different things.
do you call pre - ignition the act of moving the spark lever on the collumn?
 
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