Model t speedster kit chassis
- Thread starter buzz882
- Start date
gz
Well-known member
I assume you are talking about the Rootlieb Speedster kit? I have built more than a few of those.
You can use a 1926-27 frame, but the problem is that the rear crossmember is too long. If you cut the crossmember, it will work. You will also have to cut the "ears" off the 1926-27 front cross member that are part of the fender mount. It would be easier to find a 1925 or earlier frame. They are common, cheap and make for a nicer installation. The rest of the 1926 chassis parts (front end, rear end, springs, engine assembly, etc) will fit onto the 1925 and earlier frame.
Also, if you decide to use Rootlieb's speedster rear crossmember, which will lower the chassis, it works much easier on the 1925 and earlier frame.
Let us know if you have any other questions. Model T speedsters are lots of fun and a great way to experience early motoring. Good luck with your project.
You can use a 1926-27 frame, but the problem is that the rear crossmember is too long. If you cut the crossmember, it will work. You will also have to cut the "ears" off the 1926-27 front cross member that are part of the fender mount. It would be easier to find a 1925 or earlier frame. They are common, cheap and make for a nicer installation. The rest of the 1926 chassis parts (front end, rear end, springs, engine assembly, etc) will fit onto the 1925 and earlier frame.
Also, if you decide to use Rootlieb's speedster rear crossmember, which will lower the chassis, it works much easier on the 1925 and earlier frame.
Let us know if you have any other questions. Model T speedsters are lots of fun and a great way to experience early motoring. Good luck with your project.
gz
Well-known member
Yes. I believe Lang's, Mac's etc sells the Rootlieb speedster bodies and parts. Here is the Rootlieb website:
http://www.rootlieb.com/speedster-kits.html
http://www.rootlieb.com/speedster-kits.html
Hi buzz882,
I've almost finished building one of these now and I agree with gz regarding the earlier chassis being the better one for the job. Knowing what I've learned with this project, I'd stay away from a 26-27 chassis.
However, I elected not to buy Tom Rootliebs lowered rear cross member or the dropped front axle. Instead, I installed a set of John Bolens reproduction Laurel Underslung brackets. But to do this you must cut the frame to install the rear brackets. It also means that the front axle will be located in front of the spring. This in turn means that the wheel base will be approximately 2 inches longer and that the front wheels will not fit in the same arch as the curved front fenders, requiring the purchase of the flat topped fenders.
Cheers,
Rob
I've almost finished building one of these now and I agree with gz regarding the earlier chassis being the better one for the job. Knowing what I've learned with this project, I'd stay away from a 26-27 chassis.
However, I elected not to buy Tom Rootliebs lowered rear cross member or the dropped front axle. Instead, I installed a set of John Bolens reproduction Laurel Underslung brackets. But to do this you must cut the frame to install the rear brackets. It also means that the front axle will be located in front of the spring. This in turn means that the wheel base will be approximately 2 inches longer and that the front wheels will not fit in the same arch as the curved front fenders, requiring the purchase of the flat topped fenders.
Cheers,
Rob
Correct.
And this is his website http://www.antiquetmotorsports.com/home
and his eBay store https://www.ebay.com/str/antiquetmotorsportsllc
Cheers,
Rob
And this is his website http://www.antiquetmotorsports.com/home
and his eBay store https://www.ebay.com/str/antiquetmotorsportsllc
Cheers,
Rob