James, pattern the stock T rod after the A & B rods. Drill two holes, in the web on both sides, and one in the cap, and use the tin T dippers The two holes in the web are for air, and old oil exchange. You have to machine the part lines, and put in the right amount of shims, which is normally two .032 solid brass shims , and one .032 laminated, at .002 each piece. We have to make our own shims, as you can't buy the right kind for a spun poured rod. This makes the nut and bolt hole on the rod bolt line up so you don't have the nut way below the end of the hole in the end of the bolt. The other reason for the right amount of shims in the rods is to get the same amount of babbitt in the cap, and the rod and keep the 7" center distance. Many rebuilders bore out the T rods, with out the right amount of shims, and take out alot of material in the cap, which makes the cap unsafe. To put in "X" groves, you have to bore the rod out to a certain size so that you have room for the "X" grove cutter, as they brake the cutting end off very easy, if you hit steel. The last thing is they should be broached on the center line, also for oil, and air exchange. NEVER MAKE AN OIL WELL ON A DIPPER ROD, that would trap any foreign material in the well, and keep it circling the shaft. We always poured about 5, to 8 hundred rods at a time, then machine them all, and weigh each one on a Gram Scale, and lay them in long lines, ane then pick them by weight, from the light end of the line, to the heavy end, so you didn't have to mutilate any rods, when you balanced a set. To do them that way, you will have 3 times the hours, as an Model A, or B rod. Now, as for a debating if a Model T rod will last longer with X groves, and dippers, how many A, and B guys do you think you find, that would use A & B rods with out dippers, and X groves mmmmmmmm? thanks Herm.
