Model T rear axle nut

Using the guidance from Milt Webb aka. "Dr T" on page 47 of his "restoring a ruckstell for a model T" it say's...

"withboth rear wheels on the floor torque the axle nuts to 80 ft.lb. Then, torque the axle nut more to line up the castellation slot for cotter pin installation." That spec is good even if you do not have a Ruckstell axle.

Remember to check drum rotation and brake lining drag before and after. Good luck and let us know how you make out.
 
I take mine to 90 then to next slot. If at 90 the next slot is quite a ways from lining up, I file a little off the nut or swap them around. Be sure to recheck a couple of times after that. I yet to find a car that does not need to retorqued a couple of times. Have had a number of cars come in the shop that was done once and never again! :(
 
There is no torque spec for anything on a Model T Ford. No torque wrenches existed at the time. You tighten the nut as tight as you dare and then install a cotter pin.
 
That is not completely true. Torque was set by the length of the wrench used and where the average person could turn it till it stopped. That is why wrenches come in different lengths. The spark plug wrench when used properly yields about 45-50FPs of torque to the head bolts. Just because there may not have been torque wrenches presay, does not mean engineers did not understand torque values when making tools.
 
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Actually the correct torque is: stop just before something breaks or strips.
I have found model T, and later car owners, who insisted that you just tighten the nut until there is no play between the drum hub and the axle.
They obviously don’t understand the setup. You are not adjusting play on a bearing.
 
I replaced bearings, brakes, bearing springs, seals and axle keys. When I reinstalled hubs and tried tightening the nuts, wheels locked up and wouldn’t turn. Had to back off the nuts enough so wheels would turn. What may I be doing wrong?
 
Crandalj said:
I replaced bearings, brakes, bearing springs, seals and axle keys. When I reinstalled hubs and tried tightening the nuts, wheels locked up and wouldn’t turn. Had to back off the nuts enough so wheels would turn. What may I be doing wrong?
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First you really need to start your own post. Could be hubs are worn, the outer housing seal cap is not on far enough, brake shoes are getting crushed between the backing plate and drum, etc. The list could go on. We would need more information to make any kind of guesses.
 
Crandalj said:
I replaced bearings, brakes, bearing springs, seals and axle keys. When I reinstalled hubs and tried tightening the nuts, wheels locked up and wouldn’t turn. Had to back off the nuts enough so wheels would turn. What may I be doing wrong?
Click to expand...


I've noticed this one mine, too. Is it possible then that the axle shaft is worn and I need to add shims?
 
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