model t mallory distributor

henrys wonderful model t by clymer has a very similar setup on page 217. the "rheostst" on the cap is a ballast resistor...i have several old mallory coils with that feature..good luck with it walt...
 
"IF" you were gonna run that unit in earnest, I would invest in some steel or even cast iron gears. If those are indeed pot metal and disintegrate, youll spend lotsa $$$$$$ getting new ones made unless you know a "hobby gear hobber" (?). At least now you have a template for some duplicates. An extra few sets wouldnt cost much more after the first set comes off the machine. ws
 
The only question I have is the wire connected to the rheostat is rather thin. Should I some how connect the plug wire from coil to the wire coming from rheostat?
 
Hum, never even thought about that. The rheostat normally would be line voltage, not between the coil wire and rotor. I wonder if someone added that. If the condenser checks good and it were me, I think I would remove the rheostat and run without it. A normal coil wire is thicker to keep you from getting shocked by the higher amp/voltage it carries. The wire inside, without one in front of me to check, guessing off the top of my head is around 14 to 12 gauge wire, maybe smaller.
 
I have contacted Mallory Ignition in Ohio and they are researching the distributor and checking to see if there is any literature available. Each distributor cap has that wire hanging from it and I wonder if there was a special coil used for this situation?The wire is about 14 gauge.
 
I found a copy of the ad for this unit. It does use the Model T coils not a normal 6 volt coil.
The ad reads;
The four Ford coils are handled by a single set of breaker points and mechanical breaker insuring accurate firing.
Not a HIGH TENSION system.
Vibrating points on coils can be eliminated on battery equipped cars.
Operates from magneto or battery.
No change in standard for plan of wiring. (?, yes this is how it reads)
The ad does not show a wiring diagram just a view of the unit. Hope the people at Mallory can help.
MarkG
 
BINGO! Thats what I was kind of refering to as a distributor using points and condenser for battery ignition as well as being able to run on MAG with Ford coils. Maybe the rheostat controlled MAG voltage? ws
 
The rheostat when used on the Bosch or Atwater-Kent seems to only be used if using a Model T coil on battery. If you can get a copy of "The Model T Ford Owner" by Murray Fahnestock it might be of some help. While he does not cover this unit it might help glean some information.
MarkG
 
So what im thinking is to use a model t coil in series with the rheostat. Then apply battery to the points and condensor. When the points open and close this will short circuit to ground and open circuit to allow battery to flow. Then ground chassis of distributor to neg side of battery.
 
I hooked up a model t coil to timer and got no results. I hooked up timer to 6 volt coil and got spark out of points. I will have to do some more research to figure out how to use model t coils to make it operate.Iam not sure how I would hook up all 4 coils to make this work.
 
I still think each one of those contacts in the cap are timer "grounds" for individual coils. The dash switch is still gonna direct battery juice through the coils with the internal points controlling the dwell with a capacitor to help point longevity. Once switched over to the A.C. MAG point arcing will be negligable and the dwell performed (controlled??) by MAG magnet position.
Honestly? Id contact John Regan at Fun Projects that has a good grasp (electrically speaking) of the model T ignition system in situ.

http://www.funprojects.com/

He'll take the time to confer with you over the phone and has a keen interest in this stuff if even unfamiliar with the specific device. Spoke with him personally at a Model T club meeting last month in West bend Wi doing a coil/magneto seminar. Call him! His products are tops BTW! ws
 
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