Model B Zenith carburetor

J

Jamie86

Member
Does anyone know if they make a one piece fitting to adapt the gas line to the front of the Model B carburetor ? I have the brass three piece fitting.
 
You can just get a piece of brake line and make the line you want with a cheapo tubing bender.You can make it look like a factory made part,with a nice U-turn to go into the front of the carb.I thought one of the vendors was selling a line made up for the B carb in the A.I have a B carb setup that has a late 31 A carb mounted sediment bowl on it.That puts the gas line opening out the side like the A,just a little further ahead.Just pulling the bends out of the line a little puts that in the right place.If you didn't know you would think it was factory.A bunch of brass fittings in a line looks hokey to me too.
 
I have a NOS two piece adapter on one of my Model B carbs. It is a cast iron deal. I will take a snap on try to get it on FB soon. Works and looks great.
 
Model B 001.jpg

Model B 003.jpg

Here are the pictures I just snapped of this Model B Fuel Inlet Adapter.
 
Thanks everyone for your replies,I appreciate it. I had thought about the fuel line Keith and Ron just haven't done it. I purchased the three piece brass fitting and it works, just don't like the looks. Just thought there has to be something better. Modela@aol.com thank you for the pictures.
 
I used a regular Model A fuel line that I bent a "U" turn in at the carburetor end. I believe that the late '31 line might be a little bit longer than the more common line. Not certain which is longer. Bend must be made carefully to prevent crimping. Looks good.
 
Here is a photo of the B carb on my Phaeton showing how I used an A type fuel line, shaping it by hand to fit. This line has been used on several configurations in the past, not perfect but works good.

Darryl in Fairbanks
 

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  • 1930 Phaeton Model A Engine B Carb 2.jpg
    1930 Phaeton Model A Engine B Carb 2.jpg
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Purdy,
Thank you for sharing this with all of us "one carb at a time is all I can handle" Model A guys. I think this set up you have here is really neato.

Any issues with sychronizing the two carbs for best performance? Do you block off one choke intake at a time for getting the engine to run sweet off of just one carb at a time? What RPM do you have for idle typically? Where is the GAV setting on the rear carb? Did you have any compelling reason for using updraft carbs instead of the Stromberg types when you went this route?

Sorry for all of the questions. I have extra A and B carbs and may wish to try something like this someday on one of mine. I just can use up enough of that $4.00 a gallon gasoline and always looking for ways to use even more.
 
I don't have the car I did it on.The owner didn't like the adapter look either,so I made him a line.It looks like the one Darryl posted.I do have a B carb with a late 31 carb mounted sediment bowl on it,that puts the line out the side and looks like it belongs there.I have that carb in a coffee can somewhere.I put clean carbs in cans with tops,they dry up but no moisture gets to them.
 
Here is another. I just use original model B carburetors with the original jets. There is really no problem sychronizing the carburetors. I only use the choke on the front carburetor. With gas with no ethanol, I run the rear GAV closed and the front about 1/2 turn off the seat untill warmed up, if its really cold. when warmed up I run both carburetors with the GAV closed. Model B carburetors should run with the GAV closed. If I was running model A type carbs, I would run the front carb with the GAV 1/4 turn off the seat. The intake is open plenium and could run with one carb for testing, or whatever, but both carbs open and operate at the same time. It takes less throttle and the fuel is more evenly distributed to the cylinders. The two model A's that I run with dual updraft B carbs get better MPG than the model A's that I have with one Zenith or one Simmons cast iron. The idle is a little faster than some cars, I do run Winfield super street 3/4 race cams and this will have some effect on idle.When the roadster is warmed up it will still chick ah lunk with the spark retarded. I feel that the dual updraft set up is the easiest way to go . Dual down draft carbs will give more horsepower if everything is right, but if you can't build and set up the carbs yourself it will get very expensive. The aluminum dual updraft manifold that Charley Yapp makes is shown on the Piranio dyno sight, to give a ten horsepower boost to a completely stock model A engine, using two Tillotson model X carbs. I feel that dual B carbs on a cast iron manifold with at least matching size ports will give more. It is an easy bolt on horsepower increase. A high compression head will give more of a seat of the pants feel, but the dual updraft set up will run with no other mods to the engine. I like the period correct look.
speedsterengin.jpg
 
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