Model B spark plug change

T

tiger.1000

Well-known member
Having gone through the usual petrol/spark issues on my 32 Model B and thinking that I have solved the ignition problem I have decided to experiment with the spark plugs.


Have installed the best of three carburettors whereby the air screw actually responds to adjustment but being unhappy with the very sooty Champion C5 plugs I am now trying the modern
Champion W16-Y
 

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Just spent a few minutes peering under your hood. All seems to be in order.

Care to tell us about the WP bib, and the sight glass?
 
The Model A and the Model B both came from the factory with Champion 3X spark plug, a mid heat range plug. The W16Y spark plug is a "hot" plug best for shorter local drives, parades, etc. The widely available in USA spark plug is the TT10 which is a "cold" heat range plug most suited for long trips and for daily use with a warm motor. The original 3X is the best choice, but initial cost is always a factor. Matching the heat range of the plug you use to your driving habits should be taken seriously for best results.
 
True for most of the '32 model year, but the four's plugs were changed to C-4s in October, 1932 and continued on through the end of U.S. four-cylinder engine production for vehicles in 1934.
 
What many hobbyists do not know is the 1932 Ford V8 engine for that year only, had cylinder heads with the same spark plug thread openings as Model A and Model B heads, thus it was possible for the Model A and B to share a spark plug with the 1932 V8. That change did not follow through for 1933 V8 engines and they used a C 7 spark plug, followed by a mid 1934 change to number 7 plug which was used to 1937.
 
A bones.....the car has a leakless water pump and the shroud covering it is now purely ornament.


As far as the sight glass is concerned; well thereby lies a tale......and here's the tale.


As coolant increases in temperature it expands and in the case of this car once the radiator is filled and the car is up to temperature the coolant expands and dispenses the excess through the overflow tube and on to the tarmac. Needless to say on that basis one is forever topping up the radiator as once coolant reduces temperature it then shrinks in volume and disappears BELOW the top of the radiator.


In order to eliminate the constant topping up of the coolant but ensuring that the coolant is higher than the top of the water pump I removed the rear pump mounting bolt and fitted a "hollow screw" subsequently joined to the vertical sight glass which exhausts in to the top of the radiator. A simple but effective solution to an annoying issue and accordingly I cannot remember the last time I added coolant to the radiator.


Trust the above makes senses?
 
Thank you for that. I must say the shroud looks very tidy. Your solution to coolant loss is also neat.

My avatar is a 'pay as you go' deal.
 
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