Model B carb on a Model A

Dennis, Go to my profile and open the album, Miscellanius (sp) There are three side by side pictures of an A and a B carburetors. I tried to post a picture of the fuel line in a carburetor. but it will not post, It's imported, but I can't post it. Go figure! G--D---ned computers! So good luck with your project!
Terry
 
Terry, if your pictures are trying to be imported from Photo bucket, those crooks are blackmailing everyone to pay $400 a year to see the pictures.
Sure glad I dropped them about 5 years ago.
 
I never did pay them. It was just easier to use them for some sites that didn't have room for a bunch of pictures. Dealing with the adds on their site was a pain in the butt anyway, don't miss them.
 
No it isn't Photobucket. Fortunately, I tried to get into PB a few years ago, but it was too confusing. (I just don't "get" computers) How about Picasa? I was told about Picasa years ago and I used it and never had any trouble with it. But I've got a Mac now and it's a little different.
Terry




Tom Wesenberg said:
Terry, if your pictures are trying to be imported from Photo bucket, those crooks are blackmailing everyone to pay $400 a year to see the pictures.
Sure glad I dropped them about 5 years ago.
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Mike you're giving me away... What I didn't like about it was the acceleration off idle. Is it the nature of a Weber? I don't know. I will say this when you step all the way down, she's got power :eek: But I don't need power driving around on our streets. It just didn't feel right coming off a stop light. The Tilly is so much smoother leaving a traffic light but she can stumble and lose power on a curving mountain road. Float level is set correct, I have one of those external hose with the wire inside things, so I know that's ok. Another thing I'm sure could have been corrected with the Tilly is it acts like it boiled the gas out of the bowl if it's shut off for 15 - 30 minutes and I try to start it up. I can get it started but I have to open the throttle to keep it running. I noticed this as the ambient temperature raised this year. It would clear itself up after 30 seconds after it was started. :confused: Maybe a phenolic spacer would have fixed this. :confused: The Weber I never completely went through it so it may have been fiddled with before I got it and I'll take the time to do that later. It needed an accelerator pump diaphragm right off the bat and I fixed that but the poor acceleration from a stop was annoying. I picked up a B carburetor cheap and decided to give it a try. I've read and been told more positive remarks about a B carb. ;)
 
Re: Model B carb reassembling

Finally getting ready to mount the B carb to my Model A. Need some help with the orientation of the throttle plate. Mine has a notch on the plate on one side, factory not modified. In the illustrations the plate number is 9585. So which side does the notch go towards?
 
Re: Model B carb reassembling

Look at the small angles on the edge of the plate and orient the plate to the angles. One way it go, the other way it will not go.
Terry




denniskliesen said:
Finally getting ready to mount the B carb to my Model A. Need some help with the orientation of the throttle plate. Mine has a notch on the plate on one side, factory not modified. In the illustrations the plate number is 9585. So which side does the notch go towards?
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Terry, I figured it out early this morning. My upper carb body is the mid production looking at Vince's site on B carbs, has a brass insert instead of the drilled hole in the casting. The plate is for a early production. I just flipped it over so the notch is on the opposite side of the bore from the idle orifice. The picture is just to show where the notch is, I didn't leave it that way.
 

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Ford built AA Trucks in England into 1936 . These were factory fitted with model B engines and carbs . At first the A inlet manifold was retained as the RHD manifold has a peg on it for the advance/ retard linkage pivot . These inlet manifolds were not bored out to suit the larger bore B carb so there was a 1/16" step in the inlet tract which Ford seemed quite happy about . Later production the advance/retard lever was deleted on the steering column and the B distributor fitted . I think that it would only make a difference at very wide throttle openings as the throttle plate is a much bigger obstruction to flow than the manifold/carb mismatch .I have a car with a B carb on an A manifold and it runs like a champ . Just wondered what a dyno test would show at normal throttle openings I cant think there would be much difference IMHO !!! I do have an English B carb (different markings on it) I ought to check to see if the mounting flange is aligned for the GAV driver .

John in sunny Suffolk County England .
 
For what it is worth at this point, I had a B carb on my huckster. I did not have the manifold bored out so did not get the full benefit of it. So I took it off and put an A carb back on because I noticed I did not get very good mileage using the B carb. Also when I had it on the rig, I ordered a filter from a vendor and found it would not fit the B carb. Anyway for what it is worth!
 
John, Try " Pirianos Mod. A s " site. They ran a Mod.A engine in all states of modification, with and without B carbs.
Terry




john charlton said:
Ford built AA Trucks in England into 1936 . These were factory fitted with model B engines and carbs . At first the A inlet manifold was retained as the RHD manifold has a peg on it for the advance/ retard linkage pivot . These inlet manifolds were not bored out to suit the larger bore B carb so there was a 1/16" step in the inlet tract which Ford seemed quite happy about . Later production the advance/retard lever was deleted on the steering column and the B distributor fitted . I think that it would only make a difference at very wide throttle openings as the throttle plate is a much bigger obstruction to flow than the manifold/carb mismatch .I have a car with a B carb on an A manifold and it runs like a champ . Just wondered what a dyno test would show at normal throttle openings I cant think there would be much difference IMHO !!! I do have an English B carb (different markings on it) I ought to check to see if the mounting flange is aligned for the GAV driver .

John in sunny Suffolk County England .
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Follow-up on the results with the B carb. I went ahead with the B manifold beings I had it plus it just seemed easier for me to do a minor modification to the carburetor mounting flange. I built up a couple of the sides of the flange to get a positive full gasket surface when I moved the holes to get the correct angle so my GAV rod was straight. All of the surfaces including both manifolds and carburetor were honed to match to eliminate any leaks. For the most part the only carb parts changed were the throttle shaft and float valve, gaskets of course. All of the jets etc were the originals with numbers stamped so I was able to compare these with charts on Vince's site. Dave at Renner's Corner supplied the needed parts. I had the filter and electric fuel pump from a Weber setup that I have and not using it currently. There is no internal filter in my B carb and I wanted a decent filter so that's why I went that direction. Here's some before and after pics. The evaporust did a great job removing all of the rust... wish I had taken pictures before I painted.
 

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I am running a B carb with a B intake that stalls at every stop. Carb was rebuilt by a very good rebuilder. No exhaust or vacuum leaks. High 5.5 compression head. What else can be done to correct the stalling? Ron
 
This is exactly what the B carb was supposed to solve. A B float operates cross wise to the A s fore and aft motion. I can only suggest cleaning it out thoroughly and checking/resetting the float level. All Mod. A s have a problem with rust in the tank and the resultant stalling. I would dump my sediment bowl and see whats in there. Then move downstream. One tip off is when your tank shut off valve feels gritty and hard to turn. You'll need a tank filter (inside the tank) Brattans 2017 pg 62, $4.35 each. Good luck!
Terry



ron103140 said:
I am running a B carb with a B intake that stalls at every stop. Carb was rebuilt by a very good rebuilder. No exhaust or vacuum leaks. High 5.5 compression head. What else can be done to correct the stalling? Ron
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ron103140 said:
I am running a B carb with a B intake that stalls at every stop. Carb was rebuilt by a very good rebuilder. No exhaust or vacuum leaks. High 5.5 compression head. What else can be done to correct the stalling? Ron
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Lower the fuel level in the bowl.
 
mngreen said:
Soooooo, how does it run? :rolleyes:

Certainly looks good! :cool:
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Runs better so far, much better than the Weber. Something I was surprised to see When I was checking things under the distributor cap was this...:eek: Where did this come from? :confused: The only pieces removed from the Weber were the accelerator pump and diaphragm and the air cleaner and base. So I'm thinking somewhere on top of the carburetor. Too many parts on the Weber. :( So if there is a Weber expert out there please let me know if you can where this might go. The carb kit parts paper that was in the package is hard to read and decipher what parts are which.
 

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Does anyone know why the B intake manifold it flat on top. Is there an advantage to this, is the manifold runners larger than the A manifold. Or was it just a place to set your food to heat up while traveling.
 
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