Model a wont start
- Thread starter tagroff
- Start date
30 Closed Cab PU
Well-known member
If your 28 has the wiring block change/mod, the ammeter should wiggle with the ignition on and turning the motor over via the starter. This tells you the primary wiring/coil primary/points are working. Or take the cap and rotor off, ignition on, turn the motor over with the starter, should see a spark at the points contacts. Check your ignition connections and clean your points.
Disconnect the coil/dist. wire at the dist., lay the free end next to unpainted stud nut, turn the engine over and you should get a spark. This tells you have good secondary. Then do the same with a plug lead. Take the lead off and place close to where it should go, tells you the secondary dist. components are OK.
Do you have the Nurex dist. modern plates set up? If yes they can be troublesome and symptoms are varied and strange.
If points not sparking, disconnect condenser, it may be shorting.
There is more depending on what your results are. gets you started. good luck.
Disconnect the coil/dist. wire at the dist., lay the free end next to unpainted stud nut, turn the engine over and you should get a spark. This tells you have good secondary. Then do the same with a plug lead. Take the lead off and place close to where it should go, tells you the secondary dist. components are OK.
Do you have the Nurex dist. modern plates set up? If yes they can be troublesome and symptoms are varied and strange.
If points not sparking, disconnect condenser, it may be shorting.
There is more depending on what your results are. gets you started. good luck.
Mike V. Florida
Well-known member
How long after running does it stop?
What does the coil feel like when it stops?
How long until it will start?
Does it "drop dead" or stutter then stop?
Is it stock or modified?
I'm sorry if it sounds like I'm mocking your problem but we could go on forever guessing at the myriad of probabilities.
What does the coil feel like when it stops?
How long until it will start?
Does it "drop dead" or stutter then stop?
Is it stock or modified?
I'm sorry if it sounds like I'm mocking your problem but we could go on forever guessing at the myriad of probabilities.
Last edited:
Purdy Swoft
Well-known member
Clean and check points gap . Being as points gap effects timing , points gap is often the problem . Ford specs were anywhere from ,018 to .022 . I think most use a gap of .020 . The wider the gap the more the timing is advanced because a wider gap allows the points to open and spark quicker . A wider gap gives more time before the points will need to be adjusted again because of wear . I wouldn't use a gap greater than .022 as it will advance the timing to the point that it could cause starter kickback and more retard at the lever may be needed to avoid timing knock and possible lugging at low speeds in the higher gears .
It appears you have isolated this to a no spark when the engine warms up and you turn it off. I would be looking at point gap, condition of the points to start with. If the points have been in the car a good length of time, good chance the gap has decreased and depending on original setting my be ?? not properly gapped. Next or first, the condition of the points, ..... as points operate, they tend to burn away and get less conductive of electricity, normally not so bad as to stop ignition, but if these are aged quit a bit, not gapped prooperly, you can try a point file to clean them up a bit, and after Regap them. Let us know what you find!
30 Closed Cab PU
Well-known member
Hope he posts back, OP posted 4/12 and no word from him since then.