Model A won't crank

jeremy.klinger

jeremy.klinger

Member
Hi everybody. I'm in the military and went to Korea for a year with my 1930 in running condition and now he's having a problem starting. I'm pretty familiar with the operation of anything but just can't figure it out yet. I replaced the starter switch already because it was very loose and the spring was about gone. When I hit the starter rod there's one knock and that's it, no turnover at all. I replaced the battery because the cranking amps was only at 460, not 777. I have 6 volts at the starter switch, both terminal posts, both coil posts and point arm. I bench checked the starter and it spun freely. I know it's a fairly simple system and am just out of ideas. The horn works, so I assume the ground is good. There's just no crank action or turnover at all, just the one knock for the starter. Any ideas is greatly appreciated, I haven't driven Fred in almost three years and miss having him on the road. --The engine is not locked up.

Thank you,

Jeremy
 
sounds like the starter is stuck on the fly wheel ring gear, put trans in third and have a friend or two help you rock the car back and forth,do that till you hear a click or snap as the srarter breaks free, that happens alot with ford cars because of the long starter shaft drive, it it gets bent a little bit it will lock to the ring gear
 
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Has the engine budged since you got back from Korea? If not try to hand crank the engine. Still no movement? Loosen the starter, pull the plugs and squirt some lubricant in each hole, drink a cool one and try the crank again with the plugs out.
 
I reinstalled the started and just tried rocking it in third gear, no help. I can turn the engine with the fan...thanks for both ideas. Could the starter still be bad, how about the cut-out relay?
 
Getting good at R&R the starter, pull it out one more time and see if it turns by hand, then try a set of jumper cables and actuate the starter sw by hand. Does the starter turn?? Are both bolts that attach the starter drive to the shaft there?
Paul in CT
 
I don't think the cut out could be a part of the problem, it is easy to check though. Loosen the fan belt and see if the generator is spins when the battery is connected. If it spins the cut out is stuck in the closed position and might be loading the battery. I do not know your Model A experience so do not take the next question wrong. Is the batter properly connected + to ground? My next thought would be the brushes.
 
I would take a voltage reading at the starter and the battery when you are trying to start it
to see if you are getting a large voltage drop.

Bob
 
Do the headlights dim when you hit the starter? Will the horn blow when the starter is engaged? You say you have a new battery and the engine turns over freely by the belt, so it must be a poor connection, bad starter, or bad battery. If the headlight go out when the starter switch is pushed, that most likely would mean a poor connection in the starter circuit.
 
Thanks for the great responses, I'll re-engage tomorrow and try them. For now, it's time to clean up and finish the ribs. I'll try the great electrical advices tomorrow to try to narrow it down.
 
Had very similar experinece in 1969.

Model A laid up for 3 years, so i bought a new 6V battery, hit starter & heard a knock. Lights came on, & horn blew.

My Uncle, certified mechanic, born 1905 witnessed this & told me the new battery was defective. Not listening to him I went down the road to get another starter.

When I returned, my Uncle had already gone; but he had posted a hand written sign on a piece of cardboard:

BAD BATTERY!

Took it back where I bought it -- one cell almost dead -- exchanged for another 6V battery, installed same, engine started right up.
 
I know this is a crazy question,, but,, have you tried to turn the engine over with the crank ?? You said you turned the engine over with the fan or belt,, but,, are you sure the crank pulley turned ?? With the starter removed does the engine turn by prying on the ring gear ?? I just had to ask.. If all this good,, I'm with the others concerning a ground problem/connection problem..
 
Jeremy,

Rotating the engine with the fan is never a good idea; however, maybe someone else should relate their fan story such as:

Just suppose you never had a problem with the starter before; &,
maybe you never rotated the engine with the fan before; &,
what if the fan blade had a small crack 3 years ago; &,
now, turning the engine with the fan opened the crack, bent the blade, & threw the fan out of balance; &,
tomorrow, the engine starts with a wobbling fan; &, ...............
 
jeremy.klinger said:
Hi everybody. I'm in the military and went to Korea for a year with my 1930 in running condition and now he's having a problem starting. I'm pretty familiar with the operation of anything but just can't figure it out yet. I replaced the starter switch already because it was very loose and the spring was about gone. When I hit the starter rod there's one knock and that's it, no turnover at all. I replaced the battery because the cranking amps was only at 460, not 777. I have 6 volts at the starter switch, both terminal posts, both coil posts and point arm. I bench checked the starter and it spun freely. I know it's a fairly simple system and am just out of ideas. The horn works, so I assume the ground is good. There's just no crank action or turnover at all, just the one knock for the starter. Any ideas is greatly appreciated, I haven't driven Fred in almost three years and miss having him on the road. --The engine is not locked up.

Thank you,



Did you by chance use a new bolt to mount the starter. If the mounting bolts are to long they will hit the flywheel and lock up the engine.
Click to expand...
 
The machine screws that hold the starter switch to the starter apparently have different lengths, and I have heard of the starter grounding out or being damaged by using too long machine screws. I don't have personal experience with this,but it has been referred to on these forums before.
 
I have read so may posts about electrical problems that it drives me nuts. This is not meant to pick on the originator of this thread or anyone else. I have seen many posts with lots of advice for a problem like this. Easy to figure out if you can do a simple voltage drop test. I would be willing to help out with some basic electrical testing and have thought about it for awhile. I have found it does not work so well to try to explain it without demonstrating it. Would anyone be interested in learning anything about this? If so , what would be the best format for presenting it?

I have no agenda other than helping out(no money involved).

If you have any questions or comments please send me a PM.

Thanks,
Pete
 
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