Model A Torqueflite 904 kit

R

Richie R

Member
I have just picked up a Torqueflite 904 kit from Bert's Model A.
Is is just a basic kit where it's just the adaptor for the crank and bell.
Has anyone fitted one have any advise on the crank bolts, did you have the crank drilled with extra holes.
It's most likely the only 904 kit in this country, anyone have any advise on fitting it?
Before anyone asks, yes I have asked on the HAMB.
 
all that i can add is that the torqueflight utilizes a linkage or cable connected to the throttle linkage on the motor to operate the throttle valve for upshifts, unlike a c-4 or say a t-350 which uses a vacuum modulator...
 
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SteveB31 said:
Contact Art Moore at art4e4@yahoo.com. He has it in both of his cars. And it is vacuem controlled. Works great!!!!


Steve BEcker
Berts Model A Center
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Thanks Steve
Thanks for the kit and quite a reasonable price for part and shipment too. Just need to work out how to get the adaptor to fit the engine, and the rest of the fitment into my A is more in my knowledge field.
 
Rich taping the crank for the extra 2 bolts is no big deal I do it on my modified engines and use arp bolts much stronger and maybe thought necessary by the kit manufacturers
 
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colin1928 said:
Rich taping the crank for the extra 2 bolts is no big deal I do it on my modified engines and use arp bolts much stronger and maybe thought necessary by the kit manufacturers
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I don't recall hearing that term for bolts. What are "arp bolts"? Thanks
 
ARP | The Official Web Site
arp-bolts.com/
Automotive Racing Products
Manufacturer of fasteners found in engines and drivelines, ranging from OEM replacement parts to specialty hardware for racing applications.

I have their head studs on my engine. Great products.
 
Vic in E-TN said:
Carl:
Do you have the product number easily available for the ARP head studs for the A engine?
Vic
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12 ea AP3.500-ISB
2 ea AP5.750-ISB

Depending on your head, these may be a quarter inch too long. If they are, just order shorter ones or use a really thick SAE washer under the nut. The length is in the part #.

No need to tell them you are buying these for a Model A, they've never heard of one.
 
When using high strength bolts that engage threads in a Model "A" engine block, keep in mind that the weak link is the threads in the gray iron block. Thus the high strength bolts and or studs are of no value.
 
Bob Bidonde said:
When using high strength bolts that engage threads in a Model "A" engine block, keep in mind that the weak link is the threads in the gray iron block. Thus the high strength bolts and or studs are of no value.
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Kinda odd don't you think that these very fasteners are made to use in high-performance applications which also use cast iron and aluminum blocks. Do you suppose they are no value in those engine blocks either?

.
 
forever4 said:
Carl,
I think you better recheck that second part number. :confused:
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I can re-check my invoice from them as well as measure what I have on my engine.

The sizes I listed are 1/32" longer than what is in Snyder's catalog:

Regular short studs: 3-15/32". Long outlet studs: 5-23/32".
 
The flex plate with this kit is about 4mm thick, looks a lot stronger than any OEM flex I have ever come across.
I guess with the big 4s harmonics it needs to be.
 
Brent, Don't take this as sarcastic. Genuinely curious, could it be possibly that the properties that make up cast iron in racing blocks are far superior than our model A blocks? I remember reading changing the percents of what's added to iron/aluminum can effect its strength and wearability.
 
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