Model A tech advisors team from Paul Shinn

I'd like to know how much experience these guys have had with RHD cars. None, I suspect.
I hope they don't use terms like "driver's side" and passenger's side". If we assemble an engine in accordance with Les Andrew's instructions, it wouldn't last to the end of the driveway. The connecting rods would be on backwards. There are MANY similar errors in books and vendor's instructions. I hope these guys are more on the ball.
 
I often use the search tool on this website to get answers to questions others have already asked. Then if I need more detail or more help I can post a better question with some background knowledge. I do find that helpful. I will certainly check-out Pauls videos too (pictures are very helpful to me).
 
Good on using the search tool
You’re likely one of about 2%
Sometimes the redundancy of questions here amazes me!!
 
Paul - thanks for everything you do.

This is just another great resource for A owners. I suspect you'll also see some questions that could serve as topics for future videos.
 
I wish that something like Paul Shinn's videos were available when I got into Model A's 40 years ago. I cringe when I recall some of the advice I was given by so many "experts" years ago.
 
Pauls videos are solid gold IMHO. Good no nonsense advice, carefully explained with no BS. I watch dthe one on installing a new wiring harness before I did mine and It gave me the confidence to tackle the job. Utube is my friend, especially since there is no model a club in my area.
 
Paul and his wife (Model T) seam like very nice people. He has a few A’s and sounds like his father has had them over the years as well.
I believe he gets his information correct before he posts his videos.
 
P.S. said:
One of the subscribers sent me a link to this and asked for my response.

I'm flattered that this is even worthy of a thread here. Thank you.

I have no desire to compete with this or any other web forum. I am only trying to help those who are already reaching out to me for help via email. Consider it an additional resource, not a competing one, please.
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I am a subscriber to your channel Paul. Great light hearted content you and
Model-T put out! Please keep the videos coming! I hope your health has improved as well. God Bless.
 
Hi Paul,

I have a 1931 Model "A" that is running with a Model "B" engine. Currently, the car has a bored out "A" intake manifold with a gravity fed '32-'34 Model "B" carburetor. The hole for the Model "B" fuel pump is covered with a "block off plate".

My question is the feasibility of removing the "block off plate" (the camshaft has the proper lobe for the fuel pump operating lever) and installing a freshly rebuilt Model "B" fuel pump to provide fuel to the Model "B" carburetor, since the "B" carb was designed to be used that way.

My concern is that in 1932, a Ford Model "B" had the gas tank located in the rear of the car, at a level lower than the carburetor, so a fuel pump was mandatory. But my Model "A" has the gas tank located in the stock position, higher than the level of the carburetor (and the proposed fuel pump). This configuration would allow gravity to provide some fuel pressure (maybe 0.5 psi) to the inlet side of the fuel pump, which is not exactly what the Model "B" was designed for.

The fact that fuel would probably push through the pump when the engine is off, should not pose a huge problem, although I would have to install a fuel cut-off valve after the pump and before the carburetor. Also, I would no longer be able to run the carburetor empty when I shut the car down for an extended period of time (cut-off valve could never be closed while engine is running).

So, several questions still remain:

1) Would the gravity feed fuel pressure applied to the inlet side of the mechanical fuel pump cause damage to the pump itself and/or the carburetor due to over pressurization? If so, is there a way to mitigate this issue?

2) Are there other problems with this fuel system configuration that I may not have considered?

3) Are there any alternative methods of getting higher fuel pressure to the Model "B" carburetor (or eventually a downdraft carburetor) that do not involve installing an electric fuel pump and regulator?

Since I have a Model "B" engine and already own a well-functioning mechanical fuel pump that will fit it, I would prefer the mechanical option over the electric one.

Thanks Paul. With your knowledge and experience, I'm hoping that you can provide answers to my questions as well as some valuable insight into my proposed fuel system conversion. -Chip
 
Still nothing to suggest there is the slightest grain of knowledge anywhere in Paul's group about right hand drive cars. Disappointing!
 
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Some of you guys would complain if they hung you with a new rope!
Weird statement there. We might just as well say that you have no knowledge about LHD cars.

How about "be the change you want to see." Why not start a section for RHD cars and share that mysterious info instead of criticizing those of us who don't have one - therefore don't need to know about them. I've never even driven one. It's not a space shuttle in comparison to LHD cars.
I imagine we could use info from Paul, here, or wherever and apply that to a RHD Model A.
D
 
Chip,
I am certainly not Paul, but I can partially answer your questions. I have a 1929-ish Speedster with the Model A gas tank in the stock location, a gas shutoff valve inside the cabin in the stock location, and a Model B engine with a B fuel pump in the stock location. Unlike your car, I do have downdraft carburetor of unknown ancestry.
1. The gravity fed fueling pressure to the inlet side of the fuel pump does not present any problem. With a full tank, the fuel level in the tank is higher than the carb bowl, but fuel does not push through.
2. I don’t think you need a shut off valve between the pump and the carb. The shut off valve in the stock location is sufficient.
3. With a down draft carb, I think either the stock fuel pump or an electric pump are the reasonable options. Like you, I favor the mechanical pump.

BUT I don’t think you need any pump with your current set up. Unless your engine is actually sucking the carburetor bowl dry, which isn’t likely, what is the problem? I think gravity will always keep sufficient fuel in the bowl.

I would not do anything until and unless you install a downdraft intake manifold and a downdraft carb. At that point, install your stock B fuel pump. That’s all you need to do.

W. Michael
 
dmar836 said:
Some of you guys would complain if they hung you with a new rope!
Weird statement there. We might just as well say that you have no knowledge about LHD cars.I'm quite sure RHD owners and drivers have a better knowledge of LHD cars than vice versa.

How about "be the change you want to see." Why not start a section for RHD cars and share that mysterious info What say you, Ryan?instead of criticizing those of us who don't have one - therefore don't need to know about them. I've never even driven one. My point exactly. There is VERY little acknowledgement that they even exist on the forums, in the likes of Les Andrews' books or by the US vendors.It's not a space shuttle in comparison to LHD cars.
I imagine we could use info from Paul, here, or wherever and apply that to a RHD Model A.That is true enough but there is NOTHING specific to RHD. A few years ago, I asked a well known vendor if they would honour a warrantee claim for damage to an engine that was assembled in accordance with their instructions. I was referring to the orientation of the connecting rods when they are fitted. Their instructions said that the dippers face the passenger side. If someone in a RHD country did as they said, the engine would be ruined in very short time, hence a warranty claim. I didn't receive a reply but I did notice that they changed the wording of their instructions some time later.
D
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Off the cuff response in red.
 
Paul Shinn's videos are very well produced and very interesting. A real Model A guy and decent fellow. (No, I'm not his brother)...
 
w.michael said:
Chip,
I am certainly not Paul, but I can partially answer your questions. I have a 1929-ish Speedster with the Model A gas tank in the stock location, a gas shutoff valve inside the cabin in the stock location, and a Model B engine with a B fuel pump in the stock location. Unlike your car, I do have downdraft carburetor of unknown ancestry.
1. The gravity fed fueling pressure to the inlet side of the fuel pump does not present any problem. With a full tank, the fuel level in the tank is higher than the carb bowl, but fuel does not push through.
2. I don’t think you need a shut off valve between the pump and the carb. The shut off valve in the stock location is sufficient.
3. With a down draft carb, I think either the stock fuel pump or an electric pump are the reasonable options. Like you, I favor the mechanical pump.

BUT I don’t think you need any pump with your current set up. Unless your engine is actually sucking the carburetor bowl dry, which isn’t likely, what is the problem? I think gravity will always keep sufficient fuel in the bowl.

I would not do anything until and unless you install a downdraft intake manifold and a downdraft carb. At that point, install your stock B fuel pump. That’s all you need to do.

W. Michael
Click to expand...
Thanks W. Michael,

Your suggestion makes a lot of sense. Much appreciated.

- Chip
 
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