Model A steering wheel resto.

Tony G

Member
Hi Fellow A'ers
I'm restoring the steering wheel on my 1929 truck.Ive epoxied the cracks and have no qualms about painting it afterward. Does anybody know a way to recut/touch up the concentric lines on the face of the wheel?

Thanks,
Tony G.
 
Hi Fellow A'ers
I'm restoring the steering wheel on my 1929 truck.Ive epoxied the cracks and have no qualms about painting it afterward. Does anybody know a way to recut/touch up the concentric lines on the face of the wheel?

Thanks,
Tony G.

Using a small Dremel rotary grinder with various shaped stones.
 
I had some success using small files. I use my finger as a guide. I do this on wheels that have faint lines. Freehand is iffy. I have done 5. Not show quality, but 10 footers. Bob
 
If you were really crafty, you could set up an arced guide or fence type jig and with a well clamped wheel, use a piloted router. That would enable you to set the depth and keep a nice constant arc to follow the existing lines...... just a thought.
 
Marco's right about that and someone in our club made a jig that uses a thin cutter to cut the groove while it follows the profile of the rim. I don't have a picture of the tool or I'd post it.
 
There are curved files called Riffler files that might follow the old grooves,the curved shape should give better control. Not sure what sizes are available.
 
Here's the first thing that comes to my mind.
I grabbed an old wheel off the shelf this morning and did a quick pictural because I'm not so good at explaining.

#1) No doubt the idea could be improved upon....like by substituting the duct tape for a blob of epoxy or bondo which might hold the wire spacing more secure?

#2) It's likely that filing the correct wire shape to create "flat bottomed grooves" is your most critical step. The jagged edge left by your side cutters, easily carves through the black material.
 

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Thankyou everyone for your ideas and suggestions. Craig I think your idea is great and I'm going to try it out.I might possibly be able to make the coat hanger tool into a sort of plane by attaching the hanger sections together solidly. Maybe use a metal backing strip and solder.

Thanks Again,
Tony G.
 
Follow up
I filed a coat hanger into a square shape and stuck 2 pieces off of the hanger into an old bill fold and soldered the hanger part to the bill fold.They protrude out of the holder about 1.5 inches and then filed the tips to an angle like a chisel.The beauty is that with extra hanger exposed you can re-sharpen the tips with a file.I used only 2 cutters instead of all 4 because its allows more accurate cutting control.The cutting edges are spaced to sit into the original grooves. The results are great if you dont rush it.When I had to plow through the epoxy I just took it slower as its much harder than the original wheel material.
 
How about using a gun stock checkering tool? You can use multiple cutters and the spacing is adjustable. Just wondering. Also, individual checkering files would work.
 
Follow up
I filed a coat hanger into a square shape and stuck 2 pieces off of the hanger into an old bill fold and soldered the hanger part to the bill fold.They protrude out of the holder about 1.5 inches and then filed the tips to an angle like a chisel.The beauty is that with extra hanger exposed you can re-sharpen the tips with a file.I used only 2 cutters instead of all 4 because its allows more accurate cutting control.The cutting edges are spaced to sit into the original grooves. The results are great if you dont rush it.When I had to plow through the epoxy I just took it slower as its much harder than the original wheel material.
Tony,
My "Bill-Fold" is LEATHER, does it require a "special" flux??:confused: Maybe I'm troubled by "stuff" like this 'cause the wrinkles in my brow are NOT concentric???:eek: Could un-concentric grooves in the steering wheel contribute to front wheel shakin'??:confused: (HELP ME!) Bill W.
 
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