Model A rear hub puller

M

Mad Mac

Senior Member
This was given to me by an old-school mechanic when he closed down his Ford garage in the seventies. He said it was used to pull the rear hubs off Model A's. Anyone know how well they worked?
 

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I can see how its meant to work, but the thread on this one is seized with rust. I think the bolt is meant to move down through the threaded part when you tighten it, to achieve the pulling action. Correct?
 
By the way, be advised that this type of puller does not work on every Ford rear drum from that era. It will fit most, but I have run into possibly off-brand or later hubs that have the collar (used for pulling against) placed differently on the hub, which won't allow the two halves of this pulley to be sealed together by that large sleeve. I did have some luck, however, sliding the sleeve as far on the cone as possible and turning the screw - even though the halves were not meeting each other. Other times, no success. Of course, a lot depends upon how tight the hub is on the axle. The three-legged puller that is secured by the lug nuts is about the most universal puller I have found for our cars. It'll work on any old Ford drum, regardless of the hub's configuration.
Marshall
 
Marshall V. Daut said:
It's missing the nub that goes over the axle threads to protect them from mushrooming out when the screw is tightened.
Marshall
Click to expand...

Thanks Marshall,
What does the "nub" look like? And would I minimise that risk by reversing the axle nut to create a hollow for the nose to fit into?
 
It's more like a raised ring or collar that goes around the hub a couple inches inward from the end of the hub. Or sometimes it's just the raised end portion of the hub that is conical in shape, sloping towards the end of the hub. In both cases, the puller snugs up behind that raised edge and pulls against it when the screw is turned against the axle.

Yes, a reversed axle nut should work in place of the missing "buffer" cap" when using the puller you have. That will keep the end of the axle shaft from mushrooming when pressure is applied. As the hub and drum work their way outwards and not as much pressure is needed to be exerted against the tip of the axle, you may need to remove the nut to finish turning the screw so that the hub and drum can be completely removed. Otherwise, the screw will bottom out against the nut and not allow further tightening. Usually, though, by that time, you should be able to pull the drum off the rest of the way by hand. Usually. :) Be prepared: you MAY have to also heat the hub in order to get it to budge. Sometimes they can be REAL b*stards to remove, especially if the chassis has sat outside in the elements for a long time.
Marshall
 
Mad Mac said:
Thanks Marshall,
What does the "nub" look like? And would I minimise that risk by reversing the axle nut to create a hollow for the nose to fit into?
Click to expand...
Mushrooming the threads is certainly something to guard against, and rather than to use a reversed axle nut (which is castellated) you would be better served to use a conventional nut with that thread.

An issue I've seen with the rear axle and other bolts that have holes for cotter pins is collapse of the bolt around the cotter pin holes when force is applied on the puller, which collapses the threads as well. It's extremely important to use something that engages the threads above and below the cotter pin hole to protect that thin region. Furthermore, if you use a nut then it needs to be screwed onto the axle so that the top of the nut is flush with the end of the axle, and then use something to distribute the force of the puller across both the nut and the axle. I often make force plates out of 3/8" steel with a dimple in the center to center the puller bolt.

Another issue that may relate to what Marshall is talking about is that some aftermarket hubs have the groove in the hub that is narrower than standard, and the part of the puller that fits into this groove won't fit. I've spoken to Steve Mitchell, who manufactures a great hub puller, about this. He told me that he's seen this too, and that sometimes the portion of the puller that goes into the groove needs to be thinned down just a tad to fit.

If you elect to try to find a three-legged brake drum puller, be sure to try it first. Many years ago these things were common, and you could borrow one from your friendly local auto parts store. Nowadays, most of the ones I see will not work on Model A hubs as the arms are too short to go over that long nose.

I use the Mitchell rear hub puller and it's not failed me yet. Likely to be pretty pricey down under unless you find a local vendor who imports them in bulk. And I agree, sometimes heat and penetrating oil are your friends.
 
I don't know how valid it is, but I remember some caution about the 3-legged puller possibly distorting the drum. The type that grips the hub itself is more of a straight line pull.
 
Marshall V. Daut said:
It's missing the nub that goes over the axle threads to protect them from mushrooming out when the screw is tightened.
Marshall
Click to expand...


I have never had one difficult to pop free. But I always tap with a hammer on the thing while tightening the screw down.
 
When I took the hub off, I found a shim on the axle made from an old Coke can. That's probably why the hub came off so easily.
 
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