Model A quit while driving -- won't start

When I first got my truck the generator was wired like this picture...the stud had been removed and replaced by a wire...

Does your generator look like this??

This is not original but it worked....

There are two wires on the front where the cutout is marked batt...but you can only see one...

And here is a wiring diagram....
 

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I have another 1930 model A so thinking taking generator and cutout switch off it and putting on this one. However just got notified daughter in law in Spokane having pregnancy problems and they have to take baby so packing up to head that way will be back on model A issue first part next week. Keep info coming though and I will compile when get back.
 
Your wiring looks pretty beat up. The generator definitely isn't wired correctly. If the wire coming out is the output wire, then it's grounding the output and keeping the generator at 0 volts. The other two wires on the output side look like they could be touching the case and shorting to ground, and this could be your short that is blowing the fuse.
 
Ive been driving this car for 6 months with no electrical issues and ammeter always showed positive charge. Would seem strange it ran so good if wiring is that screwed up to the generator. Will start workin on it next week.
 
Eskildsm said:
Ive been driving this car for 6 months with no electrical issues and ammeter always showed positive charge. Would seem strange it ran so good if wiring is that screwed up to the generator. Will start workin on it next week.
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The wiring is beat up looking, but it can still be usable as long as it doesn't have bare spots that short to ground. My 28 also has beat up looking wiring, but it works fine, and I'll install my new harness when I restore the car.

The fuse may have worked for 6 months, but it's good to have it installed correctly so the copper strap hits the contact better, and to make sure the fuse mounting metal doesn't slip in far enough to short something.
 
Eskildsm said:
Ive been driving this car for 6 months with no electrical issues and ammeter always showed positive charge. Would seem strange it ran so good if wiring is that screwed up to the generator. Will start workin on it next week.
Click to expand...

I don't see how it could be charging with wires only hooked to one side of
the cutout and the wire coming out of the generator going to ground. :eek:

Bob
 
icw.jpg


If you're not getting spark this should help. If when your engine warms up might be a condenser or coil... When the car dies check for 6v around the system.
 
OK, this may be way out there, but it happened to me. Someone opened the generator cut out, and just set the cover back on. Driving one day, it just quit as you mentioned and also blew the fuse.
Bottom line, in checking for the short I finally found the cover had settled and was shorting to the base thus blowing the fuse. Replaced the cujt out with a new diode type. all has been good since. Thought of this when you saw a spark at the cut out.
 
I only use original cutouts, which have the covers spot welded to the base. The spot welds can be broken loose so the cutout can be restored. The cover will be a snug fit, so it won't need to be spot welded again. The screws and insulating washers also hold the cover in the proper position, so it can't short out unless someone uses screws that are too long, or the insulating fiberboard is missing between the inside of the cover and the terminals.
 
If I remember correctly I had just hit the brakes shortly before it died so will need to check the brake lite switch -- where exactly is that located??
 
The hardest place to get to on the road. Right under the center of the car. Just behind your brake pedal rod. That's why I recommend a fuse in that circuit.
 
Eskildsm said:
If I remember correctly I had just hit the brakes shortly before it died so will need to check the brake lite switch -- where exactly is that located??
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Eskildsm, you may have found it. I had same problem when I pushed my brake down hard one time. The switch has a rod through it and if you hit the brakes hard, it can pull the rod clear through the brake switch and short (at least that is what mine did-the switch was not adjusted correctly).

The switch , at least on my rigs, is under the floor boards just under the drivers feet. The switch is bolted to the ****** (at least on my two rigs).

The way to fixed it was to adjust the brake switch at the ******. The bolts holes on the switch have a slot so that you can move the switch. You want to make sure that if you put a lot of pressure on the brake, it will not pull the rod through the switch.

This situation could be why you were able to run for 6 months and then this happen. Caused by your brake wear and the peddle going down more.
Good luck.
 
I actually just completed a complete brake job adjustment on it -- adjusting all the rods one by one and adjusting brake shoes to match rod adjustments -- the brakes actually would almost go to the floor before the adjustment and now only goes down about 2 inches before solid brakes but possibly the rod came out after the adjustment!
 
Eskildsm said:
I actually just completed a complete brake job adjustment on it -- adjusting all the rods one by one and adjusting brake shoes to match rod adjustments -- the brakes actually would almost go to the floor before the adjustment and now only goes down about 2 inches before solid brakes but possibly the rod came out after the adjustment!
Click to expand...

I hope you adjusted the brake shoes FIRST, then adjusted the rods to fit.
Rod adjustment is the last step.
 
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